hello Yotatech, I am in a bit of a situation right now.

I was changing the brakes on my 95 4runner with the assistance of a friend and this is my first time doing it and needless to say its going very shaky.

so my friend and I get the dust cap off and we get to the black rubbery piece, I don't even know what its called but it has 6 bolts attached to it and the way it is taken off is to hammer a screw into it or screw it out.

so we were screwing it out and it was coming out successfully until the head of the bolt being used breaks off. now I am stuck with a stud inside this rubber piece that is my next step in getting the hub off.

sorry to sound so inexperienced, and I hope you all can understand my post. this is my best to describe my problem and apparently its not very thorough

here is a picture, the red circle is the broken stud.



thank you.

 

The cone washers on the hub attachment studs are what is killing you.

The best way to pop those suckers loose is using a brass drift. Make sure the drift is soft to save the stud threads.

With a steady hand and nice 5lb sledge, tap the end of each stud (ones with the cone washers) pretty dang hard. Some good solid hits and those cone washer will just shoot right off. Some good rust penetrant (IE: PB Blaster)can help free them if they are stubborn.

Once those are out of the way, you should have the hub in you hand and be able to evaluate how to remove the damaged bolt that is currently in the flange.

 

thank you Elvota for your response.

But I should have made note that immediately after that picture was taken, I got the last cone washer out.

so what you are saying is that after all the cone washers are out, I am free to pull out the rubber piece?

thanks

 

I am not familiar with the auto hubs, but I can't tell from your pics why the "rubber piece" wont just slide off.

Maybe someone else will chime in, or you can point out the "rubber piece" you are referring to.

 

here's that piece, I don't even know if its rubber, heh.

here's a pic, as you can tell it can seperate from the hub.

 

If the cone washers were biting into it... then it's not rubber.

Looks like steel, and I can't imagine why it wouldn't come off once the washers are out of the way unless you have a rust/ corrosion problem holding things up.

There isn't a circlip at the axle end is there?

 

so am i correct, you were using a bolt to thread through the part you are trying to get off and by running it through the part it would run into the the part behind it and pry it apart but the head broke off. if that is the case, just start prying from the other side and once you get it to break free the broken bolt will come out. i was thinking there should be a circlip also. or something on the end of that axle.

 

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...15componen.pdf

don't know what you were doing but it should have come right off once the cone washers were out.

 

Penetrating Oil / PB Blaster / Break Loose, and a BFH are your friends.

 

correct.

thanks for the responses everyone, I just sprayed the brake with some penetrating fluid and will give it another go tomorrow. its probably just on there really good.

edit: about the circlips, I don't see anything.

 

You DO NOT have to remove the hub to change the brake pads, BTW...

 

Once you get all the cone washers out (and your last picture still looks like you have one in there), then that METAL hub flange should just come right off. It may be hanging up on some rust on the two alignment dowels... spray some PB blaster around them (located at the 4-o'clock and 10-o'clock positions on the hub flange on your first picture). Make sure you are pulling the flange out straight and that it's not cocked to one side or the other when you're pulling.

One can only assume that he's changing the rotor.

 

Interesting picture...and I'm at a loss what you are talking about being "rubber" unless you are referring to the gasket between the wheel hub and the drive flange...as it looks like a drive flange from what I can tell and drive flanges are "snug" going on and coming off as I have drive flanges on all 4 corners and you have to "persuade" them on and off. Looking at your picture it appears the dowels and studs are rusted a tad, so that would cause the drive flange to need a bit more persuasion and some PB blaster pentrant, etc. After the penetrant soaking take a brass drift and a 3 lb sledge and slightly tap the drive flange on the back edge (so you are knocking it off) and work your way around the circumference. Brute force here will damage you hub studs or bend them and is unnecessary IMO. If you can't get things off, reassess your situation, double and triple check to make sure you have everything off that needs to be off and try again after you've cooled off. I've been there, done that...and it is usually something simple that cooler heads notice.

It doesn't look like the C-clip is still on so the drive flange should come off.

I too assume you are taking the wheel hubs off to change the rotors, but if you are not changing the rotors, you should now that you've gone to this much trouble.

Please update your progress.

Good luck.

 

If you would please, can you get a step by step procedure on doing the brake job?

I would like to put one up here.

Thanks,

 

As stated above, if all you are doing is changing pads, you are doing work you don't need to, right now.

If, however, you are going to change or turn the rotors, then you need to get the caliper out of the way. You are also going to find a large axle nut under the cap you are trying to remove. If thie is the direction that you are headed, you will want to get new seals for your wheel bearings, and inspect (possibly replace), then re-grease the bearings. The rotor is also a bear to remove from the hub, so be prepared - search the forum for write ups on front brakes.

As to your immeadiate problem - as long as the cone washers are out of the way, take your screwdriver and work the opening up around the hub. It appears that you are bound up on the studs because of having the top side out much further than the bottom (in the pics). Alternately, you can tap the top back in a little to relieve the bind. It should then just slide right off. You should also be able to get the remains of the bolt out once you have the plate in hand.

The method that I have always used on them is to use a pair of pusher bolts (the one you broke), gently pushing the plate off the hub about half a turn at a time, until I have about a 1/16" gap all around the plate. Then I back the pusher bolts out, and take a hammer to the plate, tapping it back in. That has usually broken the cone washers loose in one or two cycles, for me.

Good luck!

 

I just noticed the broken stud you are talking about shouldn't even be there. If you look opposite of that one, you'll see that there is NOT a stud (on the bottom in the pic). i also really didn't understand what you were saying in your first post about "hammering a screw into it or screw it out"...hammer a screw into WHAT exactly??? if you're saying that you screwed a bolt into that hole in order to force the hub off, that is NOT the way this works. Please for the love of God, go to this link & pull down the info from the Factory Service Manual (FSM) on the hubs.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html

the specific link for hubs is here: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...14freewhee.pdf
then the rest of the axle unit is here: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...15componen.pdf
it shows the free wheeling hub but is the same concept for the fully locked hub (which is what you have).

 

He means the left over piece of the jacking bolt that he broke in there trying to remove the hub flange.

Those threaded holes can be used to remove the hub flange with jacking bolts, but usually only after the cone washers have been removed. If you tried to remove it by thightening jacking bolts in those holes with the cone washers still installed, it's not surprising that you snapped the bolt. Those cone washers get in there really tight.

When I look at your second picture again (the very blurry one), I'm now thinking that the broken bolt is what's holding the flange crooked. Were you only using one bolt or did you also have one in the bottom hole and you were alternately tightening the top one a few turns then the bottom one a few turns? It looks to me like you went to town tightening the jacking bolt in the top hole, which started moving the top of the flange out, without doing the same to the bottom, and now, the flange is jammed in that crooked position by the broken bolt (which you can't remove). If that's the case, you'll have to either pry the bottom of the flange outwards, or use a jacking bolt (grade 8 this time) in the threaded hole at the bottom of the flange to straighten out the flange. When it's straight, it should come out easily. Keep us posted on your progress, and be careful not to damage the threads on the hub studs.