brand new rebuilt 22re ... long block, overbored new valves the works. Great compression, 170 PSI across all 4, and the most annoying valve tap. From start up and through entire drives. IT WILL NOT STOP. Ive adjusted the valves once when cold, once so far when hot. And i still got that tap. Any ideas? the head has been resurfacesd a few times, and if any more history is needed to get to the bottom of this ... let me know.

 

Sure that it is valve tap?
Sometimes using a long screwdriver you can pinpoint noise.. Put the sharp end of the driver on the block, the other end on your ear... See if it's a top end noise.

If your valves are in spec, my experience says that most valve noises are caused by something about to go bad... IE - worn cam lobe, worn rocker pad, etc.

 

I've heard some people say you can overtighten the valve cover and that will make a tapping noise. Make sure you're using the right torque.

 

timing?

 

That's a valid guess.. The only clearance issues I've seen are related to ARP studs though.. it's worth seeing if you have any fresh metal on the valve rockers or cover itself... Again, sure it's top end?

 

You havent adjusted the valves correctly.
.08mm/.10mm intake/exhaust.
you need to use a metric feeler gauge, do it while the engine is scalding hot.

the feeler gauge should move with quite a bit of resistance. not tight, and not too tight. its hard to describe it over the web. but im telling ya. you have the tappets adjusted too loose.

 

is thought so... and i have adjusted them HOT!
IT is a mechanical metal tap from the vavle cover ... positive on that ... ive had many problems, fixed all of them, and done soo many mods to this toyota, im not even sure if i can call it that anymore ... it still has the body of a yota, and the computer onboard ... anycase ... the specs on the hood DO NOT SAY to adjust valves to your specs .. that is way different! check your underhood specs . are u running a 22re ? it says intake to .02mm and .03 exhaust ... thats a hella lot tighter than your specs, and im still running with a tap. Keep in minf the head has been surfaced 4X .... timing mechanically is dead on ... ill do the timing light tonight. and when i adjusted the valves, and who uses standard feeler gauge anyways?, i put it tight enough to where i could slide the gauge in and out with some resistance .. it would scrape the gauge and sometimes vibrate the metal to a tone. thats what i presume is tight not too tight.
I have heard that worn adjuster screws could possibly be the culprit, as well as it's a new engine ... and things will keep settling thus changing for a long while before the valves can be adjusted and the adjustments hold true to a finally permanently seated valve.
any ideas? ... ill recheck timing, adjust the valves again. and wait on some more opinions.

 

Sounds like a timing chain tensioner that is not working. Does it sound like a diesel? If so it is your timing chain. Make sure the bolt under the timing tab on the chain cover is very short or it will stop the tensioner from working. Back it out and see if that solves it.

 

Ok, just to clear this up you both may be right on the specs, but it's .008 and .012 exhaust in INCHES. The .2 and .3 MM is the metric conversion.

 

Do you have a different cam sprocket to adjust for the ground head?

Take the valve cover off and see if anything is hitting it? Also who did the head? Is there a chance you can take it to them for diagnosis?

 

Did you replace the rocker assembly? I didn't replace my rocker assembly,I have a new head assembly(valves exc..) the only thing not new in the top end is the rocker assembly.It sound like it is coming from the middle of the topend. It sounds like you have the same symptoms.We adjusted the valves cold,and hot twice. Still nasty. If you push it past the certain rpm range where the "knock" is then it sounds fine. Besides the noise it drives great sounds fine. At cruise speed it sounds fine.
I know that this might not fix your problem but I hope it helps you narrow it down.I've yet to find the culpret but it is my DD and I'm try to find it and I'll be driving it till it breaks in the mean time.

 

The 22RE valve train is just noisy. .008 and .012 are the proper specs. I have always found this to be too loose. Try .007 and .011 HOT. I wouldn't adjust cold because metal expands when it gets hot and then your cold specs will not be right on an engine at normal operating temperature. If .007 and .011 still tap, go .006 and .010. I have also found aftermarker timing chains to also be a culprate. Toyota chains and tentioners are by far the quitest on the market. What type of chain are you running?

 

It is a very noisy motor. So noisy that whenever I do engine work I am think I messed somthing up.

I unbolted my head so the rocker panal came off... nothing was changed and they were way off... it was SUPER noisy at first, but after the valve adjust it quieted right down to a "normal" noisy ness... and my cleaned injectors are noiser also, talk about a clicky motor

 

im runnin a toyota chain, but aftermarket tensioner and guides ... aside from the point.

It's getting better, the valves are ticking much less. Adjusted the valves again COLD to underhood specs. Brought the ticking down major. Timing to 5 degrees BTDC with check connector shorted ... tapping apparent only at idle now.

Thanks for all the help, but i don't think ill push the clearance any smaller than squeezing the feeler gauge tight ... burned way too many valves with my driving and minnesota trails.

 

oh, and sorry about the unit slip ... happens all the time .. damn dyslexia

 

and for all of us who trail ride ... wheelin' season is quick approaching with the nice weather up here ... so should i replace the steering stabilizer and sway bar bushings? ... wouldnt worn bushings give me better travel? .. and is a steering stabilizer really pertinent to performance w/130 K miles and 31s?

 

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but "trail season = no swaybar" I removed mine the weekend after I bought it and cannot tell any difference.

 

Steering stabilizers, IMO, are a must. I have driven my 92 and 95 w/ and w/out them.. HUGE difference...

Replace the sway bar bushings, but disconnect the sway bar for easier, not more, articulation.

 

there are two things that can cause the valves to be noisy , 1) if you have a sticking valve,ie. to properly oil the valve stems when assembling , 2) after u reseat valves, we are advised to add shims to valve springs, ie to maintain spring tension.
hope this helps... raj

 

yeah, sorry about that.
i meant to post the metric specs, not the sae specs.

so .20mm and .30mm is right. the specs you were using are right.

but how snug is your feeler gauge? should be very snug.