thats right. so a little noise is normal.
remember, this engine was built and desined by people who make sewing machines.

 

noisey isn't the problem . I know very well that the 22r and re are noisey engines ... wanna hear a quiet one ... check out the tundra and sequoia platforms. Our sequioa is so quiet ... valet drivers have tried to start it while running ... thank goodness for ECU Kill command. NE WHO .. it was significantly quiter after i readjusted the valves for the third time COLD to .20 and . 30 mm. I still have one tapping just yet ...
for feeler gauge tightness ... it was a wiggle of the gauge to get it in between the valve stem and rocker and a good tug to get it out.

It could be poor assembly, but this was done by professionals and if it still taps after valve adjustment ... it's under warranty.

 

and it still is tapping. bafuzzled. i have no clue. has anyone heard of the adjustment screws being the culprits. Mine are OEM and have been through the 130K . they do have that hourglass pattern on them ... but i was hoping the adjustments would eventually knock down the high point enough to where it wears evenly and there is no tap. ideas????

 

A toyota Master tech listened to mine the other day and he said that he thought it was my rockers.

 

Did he say why he thought that? If they are worn, that'll create noise for sure.. You should not be able to feel any grooves or wear on the pads.

Another thing that can happen is the camshaft/rocker allignment can be poor - one way to check it out is to ink the rockers, turn the camshaft over a few revolutions and look at the wear patterns. The wear patterns should be inside the border of the pads, not to the edge - if you post 'em, I bet you could talk engnbldr into having a look.

 

Yeah, there's a thread on those adj screw.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...djustment+22re

There are also lots of other threads "valve adjustment 22re". I've been looking and reading myself.

 

http://www.wheelingadventures.com/Tech/Fixs.htm

 

i might consider having the people who did the head take look at it

 

hmm...that link you posted definetely sparked some thoughts. thanks 84sr5 , i think ill tear apart the rockers and check the wear on em.

 

the tap gets audible when it warms up a lil. dont know if that helps, ive rechecked all the valves, and they seem to be holding their set specs .

 

This sounds like Piston Slap. You said the motor was just rebuilt? Were the pistons fit correctly?

 

yeah i don't think its piston slap ... that was the problem with the 1st rebuild. they fit undersized stock rings onto an oversized bore ... therefore slap slap slap... but this one's different. .. its in the valve cover ... im gonna order the adjustment screws from Toyota this morning ... hopefully that'll fix it.

 

has anyone had the problem that 84sr5 has talked about @130 K????

 

Hmmm....I can't say that I have. At around 130k I had someone adjust them for me. Being @ 211k, it's time to adjust them again, only I'm going to do it myself and save a buck in the process. Since I've been following this thread, I'll be looking for the same issues you have. I guess I'm kinda in the same boat...I don't know.

 

Wait...Toyota makes sewing machines??

 

Yeah, and there's even forums devoted to them. You should seeee some of the mods!

 

well guys, i think i have isolated the single valve that is tapping. I took my stethoscope to the valve cover and could hear it ticking nice and rythmically on number four intake side. The valve adj. screws don't come in for a week so that screw is gonna get switched w/ number one to see if i located the problem. $ 30 bucks for all 8.

 

Hey, let us know how it goes. I'm thinking about getting some new ones myself. They're cheap enough...why not?

 

will do. While i am at it ... the rear main seal never took apparently and is pissing oil, so that and the backing plate gasket are gonna get replaced... any good names for clutches??? i got a borg and beck now ... like it a lot how about fenco ,... or whatever/??

 

Marlin's HD 1200lb'er is a good one. I got the whole kit and kaboodle w/ pilot and throwout bearings. I got my engine seal from NAPA, though.<<

Wab Fab has clutch kits, too.

Both good folk and great products. Aisin Seiki!

Quote from Marlin's site:

Heavy Duty Semi-Metallic Clutch Kits Our Heavy Duty Clutch Kits are a huge step above stock clutches, and unlike other aftermarket clutches, are designed for the Rock Crawler. Throughout the 80s and 90s, Marlin had used LuK and BorgWarner Clutches with much displeasure. Both kits seemed to loose their "new clutch" feel, and seemed to wear out sooner than stock. Marlin wanted a clutch kit that grabbed better and lasted longer, but without wearing out his legs over a long weekend trail.
What he did was gather multiple kits from various manufactures and combined components to build the best clutch kit available. Today we no longer have to combine kits as we now have them assembled from the manufacture exactly to Marlin's specifications. The end result is a clutch that offers excellent longevity, smooth pedal pressure for those long days on the trail, and a high torque rating for a sure engagement every time. The Super Heavy Duty kit features a 1600 ft-lb pressure plate for maximum gripping power, while the Heavy Duty kit features a 1200 ft-lb pressure plate, much better compared to the OEM 900 ft-lb plate.
These kits come complete with a heavy-duty clutch disk, heavy-duty pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing, and a plastic clutch alignment tool.


I'd almost gone with an LUK, but Marlin offered more for the money. And even though I'm not crawling rocks, I do haul a trailer a lot. A nice heavy duty clutch makes a big difference. Especially using MT-90 in the tranny and a new shifter bushing and cap.