Today my boyfriend and I decided to do the intake on my 22RE pickup. We decided that swapping the intake and the battery was the best thing to do so on we went...

Things used:
1 90 degree PCV elbow
1 3" Rubber Hose
1 3"-4" Rubber Hose (PVC was bigger on one side as they all are)
2 New batter cables (You obviously have to lengthen the cables to do the swap)
1 New Quick Disconnect Battery Terminal (Not needed just cool )
Custom mount/Random things in the garage
1 Brass Fitting
1 Cheap Cone Filter (The short kind)
Green Tea

Here are a couple pics of the intake itself:







The mount that connects to the AFM via existing mount on the AFM and a hole that was already in the wheel well:



Pic of battery and the hole drilled for the battery hold down:




The battery isn't bleeding! It is just a terminal protector so calm down!

All in all the swap was pretty easy. It would have been a lot less expensive if the Ace Hardware store wasn't so expensive.

Haven't had time to really go test it out but we will tell soon enough how it performs. We also did the swap because a homemade snorkel is in our future and we just didn't like having SO much intake tube.

 

You almost forgot our Fearless helper!



Full grown and still under 6lbs! Be afraid, very afraid.

 

Nice! Verra well done. Think I might do that instead of buying a new $124 intake boot since I'm gettin tired of my torn and duct taped one. Bout what was the grand total yall spent (excluding the green tea. I'm more of a beer drinker maself)?

 

Well, after a few trips back and forth because we kept needing other parts 0... about $18 for the pvc and rubber things (what are those things even called?!), $19 for cables and terminal, and then I spent $20 on the filter. I had one but found that I needed a shorter/smaller filter to fit it all in there. Overall, you could spend less if you get the stuff from a hardware store that isn't as expensive as Ace and if you buy cables for the battery they should already have terminals on them so you would save money there as well because I bought quick-release ones. You could easily do it for around $40-45 total.

 

Looks good. What length cables? Cute dog, Rat Terrier?

 

Toy rat terrier to be exact =)

The cables are about 4ft and that is more then enough needed.

 

Cool, I have a Rat and Jack Russell. They love to help, until they see a squirrel. Since I finished the exhaust today guess I do the intake / battery swap tomorrow.

 

ive been wanting to do this with my truck fairly bad.

how did you get the wires for the air flow sensor to reach that side of the truck?

 

So, Notice any difference?

 

Yes, best way to describe it... it's not as sluggish. It literally feels like there is more air moving through the engine and seems like an automatic "boost" from the way it performed before the swap.

 

What did you use to mount the air cleaner to the AFM? I can't seem to find anything that will work. So I'm stuck without the truck for now.

 

89 truck, you can order a custon adapter on ebay for about $20.
do a search for toyota pickup intake.

 

Hey,4x4countrygirl sorry to be off topic but does that red stuff really help? i never used any on my 4runner i just always buy those little pads to place underneath the terminals.

 

Thanks mudddog. Looking now. I just drove the Creep and 12MPG is killing me.

 

Well to be honest... I have no idea if the red stuff helps! Ha. But my Dad owns his own business and gets industrial equipment and all that kind of stuff so he gave me a can when he looked under the hood of my truck and saw my terminals. Sooooo, I'm not really of any help there!

 

gotta love padres. lol. ive looked at doing the switch too, but i certainly cant afford to not be able to drive my truck for more than a few hours. lets see if ive got it right, u need the hoses/pipes to run air from the box to the engine, longer cables to run to the battery, and something to hold down the battery and airbox? is there more little things i need? how easy is it to do?

 

me too, i just drove 10 miles and WHAM ther goes a quarter of a tank

 

i also would like to know this because i wanted to do the same thing but the wires where way too short

 

I see in the picture that the hose for the pair valve is plumbed in after the afm. I know the stock setup has it plumbed on the side of the airbox before the afm. I wonder if this would cause any problems when the pair valve opens up to suck air into the exhaust? Could this cause it to run a tad rich when some of the air the afm has registered is diverted from the intake? Just a thought I had when I saw the pics, maybe someone else will know for sure.

 

All you have to do is cut the electrical tape off and separate the two sets of wires, one of them is connected to the AFM and the other is another connection that I am unsure of what it is. But if you do this the wires will reach more than far enough.