mine are still just as noisy after setting the clearance as before. i've been told that is normal, and i believe it is. i'm just wondering what your experience with it is - if any of you have a 22re with 100k+ on it that doesn't tick. or if any of you have significantly quieted yours down by adjusting them (short of setting them too tight or something like that). and for any of you who bought your pickup new from the dealership, were the valves noisy brand new? and if not, when did they start getting noisy? just curious.
i know that the valve lifter noise is normal, i am just wondering how much it varies from engine to engine....because i know mine couldnt have sounded like this in 1991 when it was all shiney and new, sitting at the toyota dealership with 5 miles on it. (or could it have?)

 

Mine never made noise. I just installed a timing chain, and now they are a little noisey. I will adjust them today. I'll let you know what tolerance I set them to.
Also if you overtighten the valve cover, it will pull up on the rocker shafts. Torque for the valve cover is 52 inch pounds.

Mileage = 158,000

 

Mine are noisy. Have been ever since I bought it with 150,000 on it. I now have 212,000. It has had a headgasket and timing set and still noisy.

I think it is just the nature of the beast.

 

We have a couple running 22re trucks here, mine has 200k on it and even with the valves carefully at spec (.008 intake, .012 exh) it has several interesting clicks and clacks LOL
Just last weekend we installed a hand-built/rebuilt 22re in the other 4Runner, and the ONLY sound it makes is the tiny click of the injectors, I was amazed.

I'm ready to build another one to replace this 200k unit. Only thing, it runs just as well!

 

mine have been clicking ever since i bought it at 84k. I've adjusted them several times, and there is a difference depending on how you adjust it. I'm going to go back in the next couple weeks and re do the adjustment. Definately make sure they're warm. Some people on here also claim that .011 on the exhaust is better. If you do a search there are a number of threads about the adjustments. I did try at one point (saw it in a thread here) doing them at .007, and .011 cold, and it definately does not work as well as doing them correctly when hot.

 

The advantage of doing them cold to 7 & 11 are that cold stays cold and does not change, where as trying to adjust them warm the first are in spec. and by the time you get to the last set they are back to being close 7 & 11 cause they have cooled off more than the first set. Add in the ouchies from touching hot motor parts, swear words that your kids will repeat to their teacher and I will adjust them cold and live with the noise that they have had for well over 200k since I bought it w/ 62k on it.

 

89dlx, thanks for the info on the valve cover TQ rating... I could never find that in the FSM and so I think I have mine on about twice as tight as they need to be... time to get some new gaskets!!!

 

OK, just got home from work. I adjusted my idle speed, set my timing, and adjusted my valves.
After the truck was at operating temp, I pulled the valve cover and set my tolerances as such:
Intake .006
Exhaust .010

Someone I know told me to use these measurements, because he said they always made noise using factory specs.

Forgot to add, ITS QUIET.

 

you'd have to really really overtorque it to do damage to the gasket. If the rockers arent tapping the cover inside the valve cover, and it isnt leaking it should be fine.

you're welcome to do 'em cold if you want. i'm just relating my experience with the valve adjustment job

 

If you overtorque the valve cover (like every 20R, 22R, 22RE I've seen) there is a chance that you'll distort the rocker shafts which will mess up your valve adjustments.

 

well, thats nice that it quiets it up, but i don't think i'd want to go the too-tight path...i've read and been told by many people to just accept the noise, and that the only real danger dealing with valve clearances is setting them too tight. a friend of mine has been working on his 22re for 22 years now...he told me that its pretty common for used car dealerships and such to set them too tight, or set all of them to .08 (exhaust as well), to quiet them down, he said its not a good thing at all. his went for 800k miles and he adjusted the valves religiously, so i'll take his word for it

anyone else feel free to throw in your input

but its interesting to hear that some of them are dead quiet and others sound like diesels

 

I think that a lot of people think the noise is rockers but it is actually the timing chain banging around. I think 22re's are the best engines ever made except for the timing chain tensioners. They are crap.
I think that .06 is a bit tighter then I would go. I go 8 and 11 with minimal noise. I would rather have a bit of noise then not having a valve closing all the way wasting gas and power. I have almost 400k km on my 22re and I hear the injectors more then anything at idle. When revved up I can hear the rockers a bit but I think that is normal. There is clearance there, so you will always have noise is the way I look at it. If not your cam will not last long.

 

My 93 runs perfectly, idles perfectly , and when warm makes no noise. When I start the engine I get that mechanical chatter that sounds a lot like a lifter tick. Oddly though.... after a mile or two it goes away and goes back to a smooth engine hum on acceleration.

 

so it's been 9 years since you've done the .006 intake and .010 exhaust... do you still have that engine and if you do, is it still quiet? has the cam worn down since? input please! =)

 

Might not get an answer

HAVOC is offline
Last Activity: 12-29-2012 02:56 PM

 

so why won't I get an answer?

 

Alot of people set them at .007 and .011 HOT and I haven't heard of any problems with that.
I set mine at that and it did quiet it down a little, thicker oil like 10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-50 also helps. Synthetic oils seem to make the noise worse even if it's thicker.

I have seen a couple of posts from someone who purchased two of these trucks new and worked as an ASE mechanic when these trucks were new and said they had checked several low mileage 22RE's.

This person claimed the FACTORY valve setting on the early 22RE was .006 and .010. HOT (slight drag) and on later years were set at .007 and .011 HOT (heavy drag).

They were at a loss why .008 and .012 HOT is specified in the factory service manual because it guaranteed a noisy valve-train and it wasn't that way when they rolled off the assembly line.



I'm not saying that it's ok to set them at .006 and .010 HOT (slight drag). There are several people who will take issue with it that tight.
But I will say that so far I haven't seen any posts about someone saying they burned a valve because of it. I don't have several years of experience on the 22RE so I'm certainly not qualified to say yes or no.

 

Because Havoc hasn't signed on in 2 1/2 years. Usually when that much time has passed, that poster isn't coming back.

 

ahhhhhh... well since you put it that way... it makes sense. guess I'm not gonna hold my breath haha, thanks for the tip Robert

 

I have been rebuilding most of an 87 PU and I started getting a loud tick/knock coming from the top end of the engine. It was 100% below the valve cover and so had to be something with the cam/valves. I was doing everything to fix it. I adjusted the valves to spec 4 times. Finally this post got me to tighten the valves to .007 and .011 while the engine was still very, very hot and with heavy drag on the gauge. Wouldn't you know the knock is now 80% diminished. Muuuuuuch quieter at all speeds. This sound is completely gone on a cold start. Then as the engine warms it comes on. Tightening the valves below spec was the solution. I may even tighten the exhaust another .001 in a week or so to see if that completely quashes the ticking, but for now it is so much better. Thanks a lot.