84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

tires shake uncontrolably

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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 10:21 PM
  #1  
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From: Chino Hills, CA
tires shake uncontrolably

whenever i hit a bump the tires start to shake back and fourth really fast and it shakes the steering wheel too and i have to slow down to about 20 or so before i can regain control of the truck again. first thing i think is the alignment or the tires. checked the alignment and it was in good shape. the tire wear was even. all the hysteer arms, steering stabalizer and tie rod ends are all new, tight and good. steering box was rebuilt a year ago when on my brothers rig. powersteering box replaced recently also.

i cant think of anything else? another thing i did notice is that when fully turned the shackles angle and the front axle moves a little bit. the bushings in those shackles are shot too. since there is almost no bushing left is there play in the leaf springs left and right? which could mean that my whole axle is shaking underneath me. another thing could be the axle houseing or the hysteer arms are bending. which is impossible.

i have no clue. any ideas?
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 08:31 AM
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Welcome to Death Wobble.
For sure new bushings:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#PolyBushings
Then check the steering caster angle:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml#FAQ1
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 10:58 AM
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What about wheel bearing, never read on your thread if you checked them...On my 84 since I bought it a few months ago, but didn't drive it that much while i had it in the garage fixing rust...But when I drove it, it shaked/wobbled in the front end...But not that bad...
I had those junk auto hubs and replaced them with manual locking hubs and when I was switching hubs, the bearing nut was loose as a goose...
And since I had to do the hub conversion and got it all back together and it torque to the right specks now I can run the interstate doing 70 and not a shake wooble to be found...Good luck...
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Old Dec 31, 2006 | 06:53 PM
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bushings did it.
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 09:37 PM
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im thinking my bushings are shot too. anyone know the part number for like energy suspension bushings for the front and rear for an 84? do most auto part places carry these bushings?
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 08:03 AM
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You may be able to find them at an off-road shop, if not I stock the front spring bushings. You need two pair of short 30mm bushings for the spring eyes and one long pair of 30mm bushings for the shackle hanger tube:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#PolyBushings
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 10:41 PM
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so how much would it be for all the front bushings for the leafs with tax(im in san diego)? Im not to fimiliar with solid front axles and stuff, so what do u mean when you talk about pressing some sleeve in for oem. can i just unbolt the leafs and replace the bushings or is there more to it then that?
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 11:08 AM
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As noted, you have 2 pair of 30mm short bushings in the spring eyes and 1 pair of 30mm long bushings in the shackle hanger through the frame. All split bushings, easy to remove and replace. Cost would be $35.00 for the full set or $30 if you wanted to use short bushings through the frame.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 11:50 PM
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hey 4crawler do you know about the greasable shackle bolts? it seems the ones i got in my trail gear kit have too much thread. the shackle plate is on the threads and wearing it down and i think the threads being on the bushing is what screwed them up so fast. any idea if the all pro or marlin ones are different or if you stock them? thanks
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 08:37 AM
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I find one key with my shackles is to make sure that the bolt rotates with the shackle side plates and thus if the plate and bolt move as one, there is no wear of the harder bolt/threads on the softer mild steel side plates. I had the same problem with the non-greaseable Downey shackles I used to run.

Since designing my own shackles with bolt retainer tabs, have had no problems at all:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#Introduction



The tabs beside the bolt head keep it rotating with the shackle as the suspension cycles. Since there is no relative motion between the bolt and the shackle, there can be no wear. Normally, the bolt will tend to stick to the inside of the bushing (more friction) and the shackle plates rotate back and forth on the bolt (and threads).

Last edited by 4Crawler; Jan 9, 2007 at 11:02 AM.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 02:45 PM
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whats your opinion on boxed or unboxed shackles and shackles over 6" long
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by darth brian
whats your opinion on boxed or unboxed shackles and shackles over 6" long
As noted on my web page:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...es.shtml#FAQ11
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 12:22 PM
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my trail gear shackles are 6" long and the rear sits higher than the back. i already made some 4" ones for the rear and it still sits higher do you think for a daily driver it would be bad and/or unstable to put longer ones on the front?
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 12:47 PM
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I run 7" shackles (braced) up front and 6" shackles (braced) in the back. I used to run 5.5" shackles up front (unbraced) but went to longer ones for the addidional caster angle which improved steering and cured my death wobble. I got no additional lift with the longer shackles, but added ~1.5 degrees to my caster angle.

Last edited by 4Crawler; Jan 11, 2007 at 12:49 PM.
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