Replaced master switch and windows will still not work
06-22-2018, 11:06 AM
#1
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Replaced master switch and windows will still not work
It is getting power as the light is lighting up but still nothing as far as controls. Window lock is not on. I’ve searched and can’t find what my next step should be. 91 3.0
06-22-2018, 11:31 AM
#2
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I've seen a lot of issues with the wiring harness in the door jamb of the driver's door.
check out this thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...highlight=jamb
check out this thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...highlight=jamb
06-22-2018, 12:14 PM
#3
Since you don`t mention did the windows ever work ?
You did check both switches and know the one in the truck had failed the new one tested good.
Have you jumped the motors to see if they work ??
Truck running or battery charger hooked up??
I have had some due to old age would only work if the engine was running and the system voltage was above 12.5vdc
Time to break out the meter and get some real voltage numbers
Do the door locks work??
It might be a problem with the door control relay
both door switches in the open position ??
You did check both switches and know the one in the truck had failed the new one tested good.
Have you jumped the motors to see if they work ??
Truck running or battery charger hooked up??
I have had some due to old age would only work if the engine was running and the system voltage was above 12.5vdc
Time to break out the meter and get some real voltage numbers
Do the door locks work??
It might be a problem with the door control relay
both door switches in the open position ??
06-22-2018, 12:23 PM
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All windows worked up until 2 days ago. I threw my son the keys to roll up the windows as it was about to storm and all rolled up but driver. Did a quick inspection of switch and it was burnt. I was able to take the switch apart and get power to the window to get it up before the storm. I tried to salvage the original master switch but it was beyond my capabilities so I purchased a new master switch installed it and still nothing works. I’m gonna take the door apart this weekend and look for broken or knicked wires and pull the harness and check it. Door locks don’t work nor do the mirrors.....I hate electrical problems ����˟♂️
06-22-2018, 12:39 PM
#5
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All windows worked up until 2 days ago. I threw my son the keys to roll up the windows as it was about to storm and all rolled up but driver. Did a quick inspection of switch and it was burnt. I was able to take the switch apart and get power to the window to get it up before the storm. I tried to salvage the original master switch but it was beyond my capabilities so I purchased a new master switch installed it and still nothing works. I’m gonna take the door apart this weekend and look for broken or knicked wires and pull the harness and check it. Door locks don’t work nor do the mirrors.....I hate electrical problems ����˟♂️
06-22-2018, 12:44 PM
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I'm not sure what light you are referring to, but if it is tied to the dash lights or courtesy lights it is on a different fuse than the power windows, check your fuses. the burnt wires/switch would lead me to believe you have broken wires in the door jamb boot like I mentioned in the thread that I mentioned in my earlier post. read my posts carefully!
Last edited by Hardy804; 06-22-2018 at 12:46 PM.
06-23-2018, 04:00 AM
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06-23-2018, 08:09 AM
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plugged in and working fine when I took it out. Could I have fried the door power relay trying to get the window up?
06-24-2018, 02:13 PM
#14
You said you got the window up by hot wiring it? This leans towards a difference in the old and new switch, maybe a simple bend pin or loose connection..
The windows use a self resetting circuit breaker, not a standard fuse (little silver rectangle?, iirc)
I would inspect the wires inside the door for shorts/abbrasions. Maybe sniff at the control module (relay box). Check the switch continuity is as expected.. Then proceed with loaded voltage drop testing..
The windows use a self resetting circuit breaker, not a standard fuse (little silver rectangle?, iirc)
I would inspect the wires inside the door for shorts/abbrasions. Maybe sniff at the control module (relay box). Check the switch continuity is as expected.. Then proceed with loaded voltage drop testing..
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