passenger side window does not work with master switch
#1
passenger side window does not work with master switch
I must start by saying I don't work well with electrical. my master switch will not work with passenger side window. I know the problem is where the wires pass through the driver side door, with the door open I can wiggle them and get the window to work. how hard is this to repair ? has anyone dealt with this? and how hard. I don't want to screw it up worse.
#2
You've already done the hard part; you know almost exactly where the problem is. Now, it's just getting to it.
This post has pictures that might give you some ideas: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-work-254772/
I'd use the manual to examine the driver's side switch to confirm the color of the wires you're worried about. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7powerwin.pdf My schematics show R-B and R-G from the driver's side switch over to the passenger side switch.
This post has pictures that might give you some ideas: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-work-254772/
I'd use the manual to examine the driver's side switch to confirm the color of the wires you're worried about. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7powerwin.pdf My schematics show R-B and R-G from the driver's side switch over to the passenger side switch.
#3
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Might be easier to just get the harness that goes from the Master switch to where it plugs into the cab harness .
Since you admit to a lack of electrical skills so far.
If one wire is broken wont be long before another.
Just another option.
Since you admit to a lack of electrical skills so far.
If one wire is broken wont be long before another.
Just another option.
#5
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
I have done these and back windows quite a few times .
I use a bare butt connector for a physical connection then solder and heat shrink.
It is much easier to remove the harness then try and repair in place.
That way you can also ring out the other wires as well as inspect.
I use a bare butt connector for a physical connection then solder and heat shrink.
It is much easier to remove the harness then try and repair in place.
That way you can also ring out the other wires as well as inspect.
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