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So I'm pretty excited to have a first gen Toyota again. She's a beater and rusty but I love old Toyotas. I've accomplished a lot of maintenance so far and she's driving much better with new front brakes, all four shocks, damper and drag link. Also did a basic tune up and valve adjustment, that's when I discovered the broken timing guide. Looks like I'm tearing into the 22re, parts ordered.
Here are some of the other rustbuckets I've owned, the orange one is my new one. I miss the others but I was young, broke, and less mechanically inclined when I owned them. I'll be more patient and committed this time.
I plan to tackle the timing chain replacement next week and keep working through the neglected maintenance. Cosmetics next spring lol.
I finally had some time to start replacing the timing chain on the Toyota. Drivers side guide is in pieces in the oil pan, as suspected. Everything is going smoothly so far.
a couple questions...
1. The debris in the oil pan was all plastic, except the one metal piece pictured on the cardboard. Any guesses on its origin?
2. I'd like to clean the oil pickup screen. Is it just the one bolt that holds it on?
3. I used the starter method to loosen the crankshaft bolt, It came free fine. Does the truck in gear, ebrake method work for retorquing it on an automatic?
Is the piece of metal aluminum? If so, carefully check the inside of the timing cover around the crank gear area. Mine shattered there and dropped tons of aluminum chunks like that one you've got into the oil pan.
The oil pickup tube is held on with 3 bolts, one on a main cap and 2 at the gasket flange into the block passage that feeds the oil pump. The main cap bolt is longer.
I don't know how much torque the auto tranny will hold. I torque the crank bolt down by shoving a block of 2"x4" between the crank and the inside of the block. Worked twice so far on the same block.
Last edited by gsp4life; 10-16-2017 at 10:42 AM.
Reason: Added more info
I have taken a piece of flat stock, long enough to be bolted to the crank pulley and contact the ground at an angle, and drilled out to holes that lined up with 2 of the pulley bolts. Make sure you can still get a socket on the crank bolt. Then got some longer grade 8 bolts to thread in to the pulley through the flat stock. Bolt said flat stock to the pulley. Spin the pulley so the flat stock locks against the ground, very similar to the starter method to remove the bolt. Then tighten to torque. Then pull your possibly bent bolts out and replace the 2 pulley bolts torque to spec and your good.
I bought the timing kit from cns auto, ebay. I'm on a budget, lol. Metal guides, seems to be good quality. The only thing I didn't like is the bolts for the guides are standard. It doesn't feel right putting them in a Toyota.
One more surprise...the hidden timing cover bolt below the distributor drive gear was not there when I took it apart. The po did say the head gasket had been replaced. Anyone know the specs on that bolt?
The fsm states to torque all 8mm timing cover bolts to 9 ft/lbs. Then during the step-by-step install process, that same fsm gives a 14 ft/lb value for the top cover bolt. So the answer is... I used 12 ft/lbs. I've seen enough say how easy it is to crack the cover if that bolt is overtightened. That's something I don't want to find out.
The fsm states to torque all 8mm timing cover bolts to 9 ft/lbs. Then during the step-by-step install process, that same fsm gives a 14 ft/lb value for the top cover bolt. So the answer is... I used 12 ft/lbs. I've seen enough say how easy it is to crack the cover if that bolt is overtightened. That's something I don't want to find out.
Thank you but not what I need. The hidden timing cover bolt below the distributor drive gear was missing when I took the engine apart. I don't believe the timing chain has ever been replaced so apparently someone replaced the head gasket and didn't put that bolt back in place. I hope they got the others right.
So I was wondering if anyone had an idea what thread and length on that bolt was. Should I use grade 5, 8, ss?
Oops, I figured you had a bolt in hand. I just replaced a hardware store bolt in that location with an oem bolt. 8x1.25mm threading, 50mm long threads. The hardware store bolt was 8.8 metric grade (comparable to grade 5) and never sheared or snapped for the 15 years it was in there, so it was fine. I only replaced it with a Toyota bolt cause less sockets and wrenches I have to use.
Oops, I figured you had a bolt in hand. I just replaced a hardware store bolt in that location with an oem bolt. 8x1.25mm threading, 50mm long threads. The hardware store bolt was 8.8 metric grade (comparable to grade 5) and never sheared or snapped for the 15 years it was in there, so it was fine. I only replaced it with a Toyota bolt cause less sockets and wrenches I have to use.
Thank you very much for the bolt size. Also the block of wood to hold the crank worked great, I didn't leave it in there. I'm getting close to having it all back together, I'm hoping to start the engine tonight. So...I'm positive that I kept everything in time but just to be sure I don't do any damage am I correct to assume the following...
I can rotate the engine two full revolutions with the crank bolt, with the plugs out, to make sure there is no resistance. I don't want to damage a valve. I painted the timing and valve covers orange for some reason
Well after driving the 4runner for a few days after replacing the timing chain it appears I do have an oil leak. It appears to be from the oil pump oring, front seal, or possibly the front of the oil pan. I did use sealant on the specified oil pump bolt, perhaps I didn't use enough. Was I supposed to use sealant on the oring? The balancer wasn't grooved.
On another note the timing chain rattle is gone but I still have a top end tick under load, more so after reaching temp. I suspect valve adjustment or manifold leak, hard to tell.
Today I cleaned up the oil leak and drove it for a bit to try and pinpoint the leak. Here is a pic after driving for 20 minutes.
You can see a fresh drip of oil at the bottom of the oil pump. So I probably damaged the new seal during installation or there was a groove that I didn't notice. I plan to replace the seal with the thinner seal from Toyota 90311-45014, also replacing the o-ring. Hopefully this takes care of the problem and I can move onto other issues. Overall it's a good truck but it needs a lot of little fixes to be a comfortable, reliable daily driver.
I had some free time today and decided to mess with the 4runner for a bit. First some pics of how she sits now...
She is pretty rough but I'm just trying to make her a reliable daily driver at this point. Mods later. I got the back window down and tailgate open. The window motor works but i had to jump the switch to make it work. Im not sure what is keeping the switch from working. The door lock indicator lights up on the dash as it should and the rear wiper functions, just doesn't hold against the glass. I changed the little bulb and now i have a gear indicator light The window run/channel was missing from the drivers door, this had to be fixed. It let so much cold air inside and made a lot of noise. I just didn't want to spend $75 on the new window run.Great news, i was checking out the regulator and found these at the bottom of the door. I know its supposed to be one piece but i took what i had, cleaned it up, trimmed and installed. Im not building a show truck. Should be much better now. I spent a lot of time on windows today, just trying to get them to function properly. Before it was impossible to roll the passenger window down, just needed lube. The drivers window had multiple issues, now just needs a regulator. I was afraid to open the wings for fear of breaking them, they function pretty well now, passenger side still squeaks. I also got the rear sliders to close, i will occasionally have little ones in this truck so it cant be snowing inside
When I got my 4Runner the drivers door was missing that same seal, the noise drove me nuts! I called YodaJims and he sent me out a good used one for pretty cheap
Well so much for being patient and committed. I have decided to part with this 85 and have listed it on eBay and I'm sure it will sell. As much as I love first gens, due to home projects and other things I will not be able to give it the time it needs. I will be in the market for a Tundra or Tacoma. It did get me through the snow this winter and I guess I saved it from the junkyard. I should break even on it and hopefully it goes to a good home.
10-06-2017, 04:43 PM
