okay.

just rebuilt my 22re. New (used) block - fresh 30 over bore, rebuild kit from engnbldr, new head (also from engnbldr), new starter, new alt, wiring harness back in correctly, replaced old vacuum and heater core hoses. I did remove the EGR system.

its basically a new engine. I've driven her a little bit - call it 60 miles.

Persistent ticking noise from somewhere in the bay, sounds internal. Pulled the valve cover while warm and readjusted the valve lash - still ticking. Do I really need to take this into a shop? Does anybody have experience with ticking while the valve lash is set at spec (According to the Haynes manual).

I should mention that I swapped my two hole injectors out for for 4 hole injectors - I don't know why that would be relevant but other than that and the slight bore over the engine is stock.

she always ticked a bit before the head gasket blew but now its worse. What did I do wrong?

 

Same issue with my non rebuilt 22re. Lots of peolle say that just what tbis engine sounds like. Did you re use the old rocker arm assembly and valve springs? Also what weight oil are you running? Im on 10 30 now but will try 10 40 next time to see if it quiets it down any.

 

its a new head - came loaded, but yea I did reuse the old rocker arms and I reused my cam. I ran out of money and decided to do those another time. I'm just running regular old 30 weight - non synthetic.

I readjusted the valve lash again and she still ticks. On a positive note though I managed to free all my rusted exhaust bolts and swapped the o2 sensor - no more check engine light 👍

 

Get your stethoscope out and listen along the intake manifold side and make sure it's not injectors you are hearing. IE pick a Midway point between head and injector, then listen on each side of that to gauge where it's coming from.

It's not uncommon for the engine to cool off while removing the valve cover and accessories, such that the spec changes. This is why the "cold adjustment" process is popular. If it is indeed valve noise try that. One thousands less than the manual specifies. Also remember these are metric thousandth not imperial.

 

Ok I'll try that stethoscope approach - never heard that before - thanks for the advice!

i actually did 'cold adjust' the valve lash before starting her and running the engine - and I set it one thousandths below spec just in a hunch and then I readjusted after running the engine and letting her cool down just enough to be able to handle the valve cover and pull it - valve cover was still warm, but not super hot.

ill check the injectors though and I may run her for a week and then do the valve lash again. I can't remember off the top of my head buts it's something like .008 exhaust and .0012 intake. That may be wrong but I set it to whatever the manual said. This is my first time doing this so chances are I just did it wrong and it'll take a couple tries.

 

also, as a side note I'm just wondering - since I didn't replace the rocker arms - is this ticking inevitable? Meaning there really is no getting rid of it entirely? Wish I could post an audio clip.

 

So what's the specs in mm? I always heard .007/.011".

 

0.3 millimeter =
0.0118 inch

0.2 millimeter =
0.00787
.

Does a couple mil matter? maybe!

Make sure the feeler is parallel to the surface(s), a small angle will change the clearance significantly.