I thought this should probably be referenced here in the 86-89 year section also, ref: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...ictures-51800/ since my mods relate to those years as do others in that thread.

SR5 Manual to Auto swap

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There are differences between the SR5 dash on a manual trans vs. auto trans vehicle. These are the changes I had to do to get a manual SR5 cluster to work in my DLX Auto 4runner dash. Both vehicles were 22RE, '86 models, mine a 4runner, donor a pickup.

The wire connectors come out of the socket easily using a small eyeglass type screwdriver to compress the lock tab.

Connector A
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Bring in wire from coil neg terminal for tach
Cut wire on pin 6 and attach wire from coil to pin 6 stub
Tape end of cut-off wire from Pin 6
Remove Pin 5 connector and tape it. Not reused.
Move wire from pin 4 to pin 5
Move wire from pin 3 to pin 4
Move wire from pin 2 to pin 3
Move wire from pin 1 to pin 2

Connector B
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No changes

Connector C
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Move wire from pin 5 to pin 4
Move wire from pin 6 to pin 5

Put bulb and socket in cluster at AT Oil Temp location
On SR5 cluster follow A-2 to solder pad. Solder jumper across to pad that goes to AT Oil Temp light location. About 3/4" between pads

Plug everything in and all should work except you won't have the ECT lights in the dash any longer.

Don't forget to change the oil sending unit before firing up the engine the 1st time after the swap or at least unplug the old one.

 

I am doing the opposite, i have a regular 5spd and am putting a sr5 ECT automatic cluster in to it.

I wanted to clarify the pin outs, i found it hard to follow the 5-6 4-5. My big problem is my cluster's oil and temp dont work, (yes I have the correct sender) The temp goes to 45% and locks there no matter what, the oil does not respond, check the wire and i get a great signal. What I am asking is does anyone know what the resistance is supposed to be across the oil senders terminals, and for the temp is there a way to test that one too?


For Connector A

On the auto sr5

Connector A
Pin 1 AT Light
Pin 2 Oil sender
Pin 3 Back Door
Pin 4 Check motor light
Pin 5 Tach
Pin 6 norm led
Pin 7 temp
Pin 8 n/a
Pin 9 pwr led
Pin 10 n/a
Pin 11 n/a
Pin 12 n/a

on the 5spd (non tach on mine)
Pin 1 n/a
Pin 2 AT light
Pin 3 Oil sender
Pin 4 Back Door
Pin 5 Check motor light
Pin 6 na (tach on sr5)
Pin 7 temp
Pin 8 n/a
Pin 9 n/a
Pin 10 n/a
Pin 11 n/a
Pin 12 n/a

the connector b is the same across the board

Connector C auto
Pin 1 high beam
Pin 2 4wd
Pin 3 swb
Pin 4 swa
Pin 5 fuel-
Pin 6 fuel+
Pin 7 belts
Pin 8 resistor circut
Pin 9 chg
Pin 10 fuel light
Pin 11 ign +
Pin 12 Ground


Connector C 5spd
Pin 1 high beam
Pin 2 4wd
Pin 3 swb
Pin 4 Fuel-
Pin 5 fuel+
Pin 6 na
Pin 7 belts
Pin 8 resistor circut
Pin 9 chg
Pin 10 fuel light
Pin 11 ign +
Pin 12 Ground

 

i have the same issue. the temp stays at neatly half and the oil doesnt respond. so all we need to do is switch the wires around?

 

My first thought would be to trace out the ground for the gauges. Make sure it is running to a pin that is grounded in the new (old) harness.
Next thought would be to check the power at the output to the sending units. If both gauges are acting strange I'd look for something common to both.
JMHO............

 

Is there a way to tell whether a cluster came from a v6 motor or the 4cylback by the stamped numbers on it?

 

I don't think the numbers mean much when I was digging at the yard through hundreds in a shed the numbers all seemed different, I tried to make sense of them but no luck. Mayby a dealer could make sense of the numbers??

 

from studying those connector diagrams im going to see if i can get my temp and oil working. i think the oil sending wire needs to be moved however it looks like the temp is correct and i may have a bad temp gauge.....

 

I have done this cluster swapand my tach doesnt work, which wire do I need to run to make it work?

 

On my '90 DLX 5 sp my temp goes to half way, Not sure about the oil because I haven't started the engine yet (just did a rebuild), and the tach goes to 3250 as soon as I turn the key on. I did adjust the resistance on the tach for a 22RE. Cluster came out of a V-6 auto as far as I know. Also, the fuel gauge reads full and I know for a fact I was at 1/4 tank when I tore into the truck.

 

Bleeder's thread doesn't mention any of this wire swapping and his worked just fine. What's the dealio?

 

Um, yeah. I took a dash from a 91 3.0 auto, and it was pnp into an 89 22re, 5spd. Bout as different as you can get...and all it needed was a tach potentiometer adjustment. Try installing, before screwing with wiring. And if your oil pressure gauge doesn't work, its because you didn't unplug it, and fried it when you turned the key on.

Sent from my LG-P505 using YotaTech

 

on an 86 22r 4x4 non sr5 (speedo, temp, fuel) to a sr5 manual gauge all you do is pull the connector pins from the nonsr5 male plug ends of the fuel light and the seat belt light. move the oil light pin to # 2 pin.
put one of the pins pulled from the fuel light and put it into the #3 and connect it to the new oil pressure sending unit. hook the other pin to #6 and rin it to the black ignitor wire (there is a green single plug coming off of the ignitor with a black rubber plug on it).
if you put the existing oil light pin into #2 than you need to solder a connector wire on the back of the cluster where there is a gap between the path to the bulb. follow the #2 down and you will see where the gap is. then you need to put a bulb in there. take off the clear front and expose the front of the gauges.pull the 4 screws holding in the temp/oil side in there and remove that panel out the front. on the back side of the window where the bulb goes scratch or engrave oil or something to get your attention that will shine through when the oil pressure light sender is grounded.
sorry i did not take picts.
all of the other wires are good and everything will work.

 

black wire from ignitor to pin #6 that goes to the screw on the back of the cluster labeled P

 

[QUOTE400orBust Is there a way to tell whether a cluster came from a v6 motor or the 4cylback by the stamped numbers on it?
][/QUOTE]
It's been awhile since I had these clusters apart and I will again soon as my rebuild progresses, but if my memory serves me correctly, if you remove the front trim bezel and the clear lense from the cluster there should be a small 4cyl or 6cly on the top face of the tach.

 

Hi guys, I am brand new to this, so please bear with me. i am restoring a 1988 Base Cab V6 4x4 5-Speed and replacing the Base Cluster with a SR-5 Cluster w/tach (came from a V6 Auto). I know about the Tach, Oil Sending and Voltage Conncetions, but am cusrious why the Fuel Guage won't read. It works when I add power to it, but it won't give me a fuel read. My Base gauge read perfectly. Could this be a Pin Placing Issue?

 

Did you ever figure this out? I'm just now attempting an SR5 88 V6 Auto into my own 88 V6 manual and trying to get my pins strait before attempting it.

 

I just finished swapping out the original gauge cluster with speedometer only and no tachometer in my 87 pickup. I found a cluster with full gauges from an 86 4Runner for the swap. It was definitely not plug and play as several said it would be but it worked perfectly using the instructions above at the beginning of this thread. The only thing I did differently was I did not run a separate wire from the negative coil post. Pin # 5 on plug A worked perfectly as the signal wire for the tach. I just swapped pin # 5 into slot # 6 and everything else worked perfectly using the instructions above. Thank you for the great instructions.

 

Good to know. 👍🏻 I am planning this swap soon on mine and will refer back here.