I spend to day taking out the old engine this afternoon. I've been removing all the bolts and noses, wires and fuel line. Today is a big day. It took a while to separate the engine from the trans. I think the clutch was holding it.



I had to remove the front tires and lowered it as far as it'll go and make the hook as close to the arm as possible in order to clear the body.



I'm using my old compressor and plans to change the pulley so I just use bungee cord to keepit on the side.



I also need to clean this mess up too. There's red coolant everywhere from the HG problem and oil leak in the bell housing.

 

I've sent Toyonlyswaps my 3.4 exhaust cross-over for them to convert the output to the driver side.
I've also purchased the piece that combine the two exhaust into one from autozone for about $100.00.

 

Looks like the 96 T100 already has the oil dip stick in the right place, right?
I had to remove the tube to switch the engine mount.

 

I've swap the pulley on my 3.0 AC compressor.
Here's the pulley assembly from the 3.0 one.

The first pic is the 10mm bolt, front plate and two washers behind it.





Next pic is the clip and the pulley itself.




Last is the part that activate the compressor. There's a clip for that too.
I'm not sure why it's necessary to swap this one but I went ahead and did it anyway. The plugs are the same on mine. The 3.0 has a pigtail while the T100 is screws on top of the compressor. I hope the wire is long enough to reach it.

 

I'm also going to get the flywheel resurface and order new clutch and pressure plate from MarlinCrawler.

 

I've also swap the engine mounts. Some folks had trouble with the passenger side mount where the AC bracket goes. Since I had to swap the AC compressor, the T100 compressor was removed which exposed the bracket. I removed all the bolts except the ones that allow you to swing it out. The 3.0 engine mount fit in great without any grinding.

 

Just to update...
I got my flywheel resurfaced. I tried to order a new clutch kit from Marlin but he's short on pressure plates. I end up getting one from local mom/pops autoparts place.
So far, all the manuals I've looked at said the manual ECU is a two rows wider plugs while I have a three rows one. Haven't been able to find the wiring diagram for it. I'm still waiting for the info from the Toyota dealer mechanic.
I've also started to clean the engine bay. I was thinking about how clean does it need to be since this thing is meant to be dirty anyway....

 

Just to keep a log of how much this is costing me and others to prepare funding for their own swap project.

1996 T100 2wd 3.4 engine, intake, ECU, OBDII connector.................1450.00
Toyonlyswap crossover mods to change exhaust outpout to DR side....195.00
Exhaust pipe after cross over pipe.............................................. ...100.00
Clutch kit............................................... ...................................225.00
Engine hoist rental (2x).............................................. .................. 54.00
Spark plug wires............................................. ............................. .70.00
Spark plugs............................................. .....................................40.00
Fly wheel resurface......................................... ...............................40.00

Still to be purchase....

Timing belt kit ( w. water pump )
Custom exhaust mod
Intake housing
Universal Batt. tray
Battery wire extension

etc...


This is getting scary.

 

I got the timing belt, water pump, thermostat and two upper crank seals for 270 out the door.
I started to change timing belt and water pump today.
I was trying to borrow the crank pulley tool based on the FSM but I didn't need it. With the engine on the stand, all I did was spray with PB blaster then use the air gun with 19mm socket to get the pulley out. I borrow the pulley puller from Autozone. I noticed that the tensioner shaft is not moving at all. I took a pic of it to see if you guys think this is normal.

 

If you compress it very very super slowly( pushing the pin back into the cylinder) using a c clamp or a bench vise, the shaft should move back out. If it moves okay, push it back in and find a pine or punch small enough that you can line up the holes and install it compressed that way till you can get the belt on.

 

Are you saying that this is the fully extended position and when the belt is installed, it will push against the tensioner wheel which push the pin back?
Can just install this part after the belt is installed and by tightening the two bolts? It should compress it or bring the timing belt to the right tension.

 

Ok Made some more progress this weekend.
I got the exhaust reverse back from Toyonlyswaps.com and installed











I've also cleaned the engine bay and finished installing new timing belt, water pump and throw out barring. Found out the new timing belt arrows for the belt position marker should be pointing away from the engine.

 

Anthony, that octopus of vacuum lines on the passenger side can come out including the 3.0 evap canister.

I see you are in California, and if you are looking to be smog legal that round canister will not pass inspection. You will have to go to the rectangular one from the Tacomas and 96+ Runners. No need to keep it there and clutter things up.

Pretty much all that stays over there are brakes lines, clutch line, vacuum lines for your ADD if you have it, fuel feed and return and there is a hose from the washer tank that will reconnect to your hood later.

I would remove the rest. DO not throw anything away for now though just in case.

 

I can do that...
What about the cruise control box? Can I use that?
I'll get the square evap box from local junk yard then.
Btw, I do have the manual trans ECU from newer truck which is a three rows connectors line AT ones. I just don't have the wiring info on it yet.

 

Honestly, I am not sure on the cruise. The swaps I have done have not used it. Hopefully someone else will chime in and help you.

 

It would be great to get the cruise control back too.
I don't even care about the 4wd light. I'd know if I put the truck in 4wd.....
I think my ECU is from newer than 97 truck. I've seen some with AT/MT ECU and some of the pins only applies to AT.

 

WTH couldn't i find this before!?!?!?!?!?!? hahaha. I know, like it's your fault, eh? lol

Wow, looking good, man! Glad you're getting all this socked away in your brain for when IT'S MY TURN! LOL. Seriously, best wishes, man... and BE SAFE! lol.(you were limping last time we met up!... stop that!lol.

 

I'm not limping anymore. I had gout.
I'm going to install the new clutch and put the engine in the truck this weekend....then comes the fun part of wiring.....

 

Oh WOW, that's very painful man, .... sorry, ............. for some reason I thought you'd 'injured' it, that day, on top of that, maybe... Anyhow, hope you're problem free in that dept. for a long time!

Awesome, Anthony.... that's a fantastic upgrade, I know you'll be SO happy with the end result.

I would love to lend a hand if you need it....... They have guests(his daughter and son in law) coming for a WEEK! lol.... But they're already starting to limit that time, ..they stopped in Pismo(they're driving from Alaska! lol)... and they've made quite a few "ALL DAY" plans like Knott's, etc. So I should be able to slip over there if you need me, Anthony.... let meknow, ok?

 

I have your number. I think I'll take my time tomorrow getting the flywheel and clutch install tomorrow and if there's time, I'll hoist it in the truck. I think the challenge is gonna be lining up the engine with the trans....that pilot pin is small.