I just bought a DVC audiobahn 12, and I was curious as to the best way to wire it to get the most power out of my amp. I've only got that one sub, and my amp is two channels. Is it better to run each voice coil off of a separate channel, or bridge the amp and connect the posts in kind of a series fashion. FYI I don't think that the amp is stable below 2 ohms. Thanks for the help.

 

What Amp is it?

 

It is a cheap Lanzar I picked up off of ebay a little while back. Sounds pretty decent with my Orion XTR 10 though. Here are specs http://www.lanzar.com/itempage.asp?MODEL=VIBE228

 

Anybody at all? I'm sure somebody knows the right way to do this. Thanks for the help.

 

Depends on what ohms it is stable down to.

Can the amp handle 2 ohm when bridged? If it is a 4 ohm DVC sub, paralleling the VC's will yield a 2 ohm load. This way yield the most power if the amp can swing it.

If the amp can't handle it, you'll need to run it "stereo" 4 ohm into each VC.

 

looks liek that amp can only do 4ohms when bridged... and 2 ohm stable in stereo.

is yoru sub dual 2ohm voice coils or is it dual 4? if it is dual 2 ohms.. you can wire the amp bridged no problem and get your 600w max (reality its prolly like 250-300wrms @4ohms bridged).
also what is your sub rated for RMS?
if you even have the model number i can look everything up for you.

hit me back with the specs on your sub and ill show you how to do it.

 

My bad - I assumed it was dual 4 ohm. Good point Nerve!

 

Connecting the two voice coils of the driver in parallel (+ to +, - to -) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofer: 3 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 1 Ohms

Connecting the two voice coils of the driver in series (+ to -) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofer: 12 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 8 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms



A dual voice coil speaker will behave exactly the same way whether it is wired with its coils in series or parallel. The only thing that changes is the impedance that the amplifier sees. This means that enclosure calculations are constant for dual voice coil woofers no matter how the coils are connected to each other, as long as both are connected.


JL Audio

 

The primary advantage of the dual voice coil speaker is wiring flexibility. A single dual voice coil driver offers the user three hookup choices...parallel, series and independent. In a parallel hook-up the drivers impedance will be half that of each individual coil (a dual 4 ohm speaker would be a 2 ohm speaker in parallel.) A series hook-up results in twice the impedance of each single coil (a dual 4 ohm speaker results in 8 ohms if its coils are wired in series.) Finally, you can wire each voice coil to a separate channel of your amplifier, which can be useful if your amplifier is not mono-bridgeable or if you are bridging a four channel amplifier down to two channels to run your sub.

The independent wiring application is the one that brought about the need for dual voice coil speakers in home audio. Unlike most good car amplifiers, home amplifiers and receivers are typically not mono-bridgeable. For this reason, dual voice coil woofers were developed so that a subwoofer or center speaker could be driven from the left and right channels of the average stereo home amp/receiver. Since sub-bass frequencies are hard to localize, the dual voice coil subwoofer allowed sub-bass reinforcement within one cabinet and one speaker. This cabinet could be placed inconspicuously in a corner or along a wall of the listening room, with the obvious benefits being space-efficiency and lower cost than two independent bass cabinets or a larger cabinet with two subs in it. Many popular home subwoofer / satellite speaker systems still use this basic configuration

 

If yours is 4ohm IMHO I would wire like this

If it is 2ohm


Just my .02, but bumpin yota would be your best bet send him a pm.

 

Anyone understand this LOL

 

I have a DVC 4 ohm orion XTR3 wired in parallel to my cheapo lanzar vibe 220 amp bridged. The amp ratings are very similar to yours, 4 ohm bridged and 2 ohm stereo, so it is not stable for this load. Its been running 2 ohm bridged with no problems since 1999. I dont care if i fry it since the amp was so cheap, but the damn thing just keeps on going. I am sure there are others that will warn against this, but I'd say if you are willing to run the risk go for it, at worst you blow a cheap amp.

 

Thanks a lot guys, I think I can wing it from here!

 

this man speaks the truth