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3rd Gen Amp & Sub recommendations?

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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 05:09 PM
  #1  
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Axo
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From: Chino Hills, CA
3rd Gen Amp & Sub recommendations?

I just purchased the Blaupunkt speakers for both the the front and rear (5-1/4") from Cructhfield. I now want to install the added soundproofing along with an amp and subwoofer. I'd like to do this in one effort.

I'd like to leave the head unit alone. If I do, that what would you guys suggest for an amp and subwoofer that won't break the bank.

How many channels and what components do I need?

How does it wire up?

Thanks
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 06:28 PM
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Since you want to keep the factory head unit I would recommend purchasing a speaker level line output to RCA output adapter/converter. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-EIyNcaA...aker+level+rca

Then run a patch cord/RCA to the new sub amp under the passenger seat. I built a custom box in the rear of my 3rd gen. Pick the sub first, I recommend a 10". Then buy an amp that matches the RMS rating of the sub. You can get away for less than $300 for a great setup nowadays.
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 08:21 PM
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check ebay too. they have some good prices. ive bought most of my setup on there.
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 08:46 AM
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infinity basslinks are about $200-$250 on ebay and sound GREAT

they are a sub with built in amp and mounting hardware...VERY easy to install and sounds better than so much else thats out htere on the market.I have one in my 4runner and sometimes i think its a little too loud

and i have all my speakers amped!
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 05:58 AM
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^^^ YUP.

get a 4 channel amp and a basslink sub. you'll come out a few hundred under doing a full blown 6 channel amp and big huge sub setup.

here's my 4 channel alpine amp and basslink:




Last edited by lee; Jul 19, 2005 at 06:00 AM.
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Old Jul 19, 2005 | 07:26 PM
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Thanks for the input. Looks like I'll be doing something like Lee.

Does anyone have a map of the inputs in the back of the factory head unit(s)? I'd like to know whats in there before I tear it apart. Even a little help on how to tear it apart is helpful. If there is no reason to tear apart the dash, perhaps I should just intercept the speaker wires...

Anyone??

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 10:53 AM
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fyi, they have a basslink II now which is 50 more watts (250 up from 200)... but its also around $80 more expensive.

im not sure its worth it.
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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 04:49 PM
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Lee's setup

Originally Posted by Axo
Thanks for the input. Looks like I'll be doing something like Lee.

Does anyone have a map of the inputs in the back of the factory head unit(s)? I'd like to know whats in there before I tear it apart. Even a little help on how to tear it apart is helpful. If there is no reason to tear apart the dash, perhaps I should just intercept the speaker wires...

Anyone??

Thanks in advance.
I wouldn't recommend that you do Lee's setup, no offense. When you fold your back seats down, and you are loading cargo, you will hit the amp. Plus it is easy to steal and visible where it is. Taking your front passenger seat out is easy. Put it on the floor there underneath. I would also replace the factory head unit. Decks are cheap now and that stock unit is crap. Taking the dash apart is not that big of a deal either. Remove the plastic trim around the shifter by lifting up on it. There are about 4 screws that hold in the entire front plastic plate that goes from your vents all the way down to the useless storage area in front of your shifter. The one tricky part is that you have to pull the A/C button out, either by hand, or with some pliers that have a rubberized grip so you don't make teeth marks on it. Then you have to pull the plate off that shows vent controls, temp, etc. That plate just slides out. Then you can remove the huge plate (dis-connect some of the light connectors, hazard clip, etc.) There are 4 screws that hold the stereo in. It is impossible to install anything with out pulling it. You can't just tap into the speaker wires. I believe there is also a small stock amp or something in there too...but just leave all that stuff alone. One easy way to check what wires go to which speaker is to use a AA battery and test the wires. You will hear an audible sound on the speaker you have the wires for. Make sure you get a wire tester to find alt power, battery power, and ground too.

And, if you have no idea what you are doing, just pay to have a stereo shop do it. They don't charge that much...and if they break anything, they are on the hook for it.

Cameron
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Yobroe
I wouldn't recommend that you do Lee's setup, no offense. When you fold your back seats down, and you are loading cargo, you will hit the amp. Plus it is easy to steal and visible where it is. Cameron
cargo cover, my friend. not easy to see at all.

as for folding the seats, i rarely have to do this, but when i do, i have a plastic box that i put over the amp for the time it needs to be down. i want to relocate it at some point though.
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 02:20 PM
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I do appreciate the input. That's what is so great about this forum. I'm not against replacing the head unit. If I do, it might make more sense to have a shop do it and the amp/sub.

I can do it myself. I just like to part with my money if I don't have to. I'd rather give it away than spend it unwisely. How long do you guys think it would take a first timer to do all this? (Not including sound insulation)
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 02:26 PM
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Oops I meant to say I DON'T like to part with my money...
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 02:43 PM
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I'd like to also say that mounting the amp under the seat and having a "removable sub" keeps more options open on how I use my truck. Also, since since my windows are virtually "Limo Dark", seeing inside is not a problem.

Maybe I'll just throw a "mod" bbq/party for some of my family and friends to help me do all this...
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 03:18 PM
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take my advice: change the head unit for sure. seriously. it alone makes a huge huge huge difference.
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