Yes, another buildup thread
#41
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Originally Posted by joez
Mine are mounted on 15x5.5" steelies. Except for todays blowout, i LOVE these tires. I only wish Interco made a bogger on this carcass, as their 35x10.5 runs real small. After 22K miles, they still have good tread, and still measure 35.25" tall. Ive got a lot of outdated pics on cardomain, a lot of people request info and pics on these tires and thats a good place to host them.
Mine are grooved as well, it helps in the rocks and on the road.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/670547/1
If you are seriously looking for a set of Q78-16's, PM me, i may be able to find you a set.
Mine are grooved as well, it helps in the rocks and on the road.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/670547/1
If you are seriously looking for a set of Q78-16's, PM me, i may be able to find you a set.
Chris
#42
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7" wide rims work just fine with these. If i run these on the Toyota ill be running them on 7" wide rims, until i can spring for the 8" wide beadlocks. I like the 5.5" wide because i can air down to 8psi without loosing a bead, and thats while wheeling a 6K pound plus truck. But they do suck the tires in to far under the fenders, which has caused quite a bit of body damage on this truck, unfortunately.
Just for reference, on the second page, the other tires they are being compared to are 33x12.5" BFG's.
Just for reference, on the second page, the other tires they are being compared to are 33x12.5" BFG's.
Last edited by joez; 06-02-2005 at 08:38 AM.
#44
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Because the Stauns cost to much money. We tested a set on a friends TJ over the winter for Staun, there are pics of them in action in my webshots. I like the idea, the quality of them is superb, but the cost just kills them. Especially when i plan on stepping up to a 38.5x11 bogger by this fall, ill need about 2" of BS and possibly even wheelspacers to clear my springs, and the 15x7's i have wont work for that. Eaton 15x8 beadlocks are only $129, and i can get them in the backspacing i need.
#45
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Originally Posted by joez
Because the Stauns cost to much money. We tested a set on a friends TJ over the winter for Staun, there are pics of them in action in my webshots. I like the idea, the quality of them is superb, but the cost just kills them. Especially when i plan on stepping up to a 38.5x11 bogger by this fall, ill need about 2" of BS and possibly even wheelspacers to clear my springs, and the 15x7's i have wont work for that. Eaton 15x8 beadlocks are only $129, and i can get them in the backspacing i need.
Chris
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They are cheap, but they are good beadlocks. Sure, they arent shinney or aluminum, but no sense spending all that extra money to have good looking rims, only to ruin them off-road. This truck wont see any regular DD duty, and doesnt have to look good. Besides, i like steel rims, but thats just my personal preference.
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Originally Posted by joez
They are cheap, but they are good beadlocks. Sure, they arent shinney or aluminum, but no sense spending all that extra money to have good looking rims, only to ruin them off-road. This truck wont see any regular DD duty, and doesnt have to look good. Besides, i like steel rims, but thats just my personal preference.
Chris
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Originally Posted by ravencr
...........on Pirate.........
The two samurai's run unmodified Eaton's, the bronco's have been drilled for 32 bolts. The green sammi and bronco pics were taken at the Top Shop event we competed in not to long ago, the white sammi taken on our last trip to the Cliffs. Several other's i wheel with have bartlock weld on kits, which are the same thing, but the do it yourself weld on's are no longer sold.
Like i said, they are not the greatest, but they certainly work just fine.
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That's cool, and I'm sure that's somewhat or more than often the case over on that blowhard site anyway. I like this forum a ton better, even though we're just now becoming more adverse to the more hardcore stuff.
Chris
Chris
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Originally Posted by ravencr
... even though we're just now becoming more adverse to the more hardcore stuff.
Chris
Chris
Great build up. Joez, you don't waste any time.
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Originally Posted by ravencr
That's cool, and I'm sure that's somewhat or more than often the case over on that blowhard site anyway. I like this forum a ton better, even though we're just now becoming more adverse to the more hardcore stuff.
Chris
Chris
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My order got botched at PORC, which i wasnt to thrilled about, but everything worked out in the end so i really couldn't care less anymore. My spool and detroit were downright cheap compared to everybody else, and i had all but the one install kit, which wasnt on the invoice, within 3 days of ordering it. If you order from them, call and ask for Alex and order through him, i wouldnt recomend ordering online.
I picked up my carb and intake manifold today, man does Sarge over at Midwest Performance do nice work (shameless plug). The carb and manifold look better than brand new, they definately wont match the rest of the truck Should practically run on its side, too.
Ill snap a pic as soon as i get it installed. I should have it running soon.
I picked up my carb and intake manifold today, man does Sarge over at Midwest Performance do nice work (shameless plug). The carb and manifold look better than brand new, they definately wont match the rest of the truck Should practically run on its side, too.
Ill snap a pic as soon as i get it installed. I should have it running soon.
Last edited by joez; 06-04-2005 at 08:57 PM.
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Yesterday when i stopped:
Today ~ 6:00
When i ran out of daylight:
The motor is pretty much together and done now. I should have opened up the ports on the head while i was in there, but oh well. Im not shooting for gobs of horsepower, but she should run out pretty good.
Ive got some stuff to take care of tommarow still before I get it running, like wiring the fuel pump, running fuel line, hooking up vaccum lines and heater hoses. I also need to fabricate some blockoff plates for the EGR ports, but that is not something that needs to be done to get it running. Barring any more unforseen household issues or weather problems, it should be ready to try and start by noon tommarow.
Today ~ 6:00
When i ran out of daylight:
The motor is pretty much together and done now. I should have opened up the ports on the head while i was in there, but oh well. Im not shooting for gobs of horsepower, but she should run out pretty good.
Ive got some stuff to take care of tommarow still before I get it running, like wiring the fuel pump, running fuel line, hooking up vaccum lines and heater hoses. I also need to fabricate some blockoff plates for the EGR ports, but that is not something that needs to be done to get it running. Barring any more unforseen household issues or weather problems, it should be ready to try and start by noon tommarow.
#58
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Engine looks nice. Makes me wish I painted my valve cover. Are you just going to run the advance vaccum line on the distributor?
Ideally you should run both you can just plum the other vaccum line for the distributor into the manifold somewhere.
I would just chop the air valve tubes and weld the ports shut. I did that to my exhaust manifold air tubes.
You could do the same deal to the EGR stuff too chop it off weld them shut. Works the same as a block off plate until you can get one.
Ideally you should run both you can just plum the other vaccum line for the distributor into the manifold somewhere.
I would just chop the air valve tubes and weld the ports shut. I did that to my exhaust manifold air tubes.
You could do the same deal to the EGR stuff too chop it off weld them shut. Works the same as a block off plate until you can get one.
Last edited by 934rnr; 06-10-2005 at 05:45 AM.
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I just had to be lazy and not pull the head before. Today tried to get it to start, and it just wouldnt fire. Compression was way low. Can you see why?