Welding Body Panels Tips Needed
#22
Registered User
Another thing about this project is that flux core burns hotter than mig wire at the same amperage, which is why mig is usually preferred. I would just tack weld the whole thing together alternating and taking my time like crazy to avoid warpage. It looks like it turned out pretty good.
#25
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Yes I can see where your self shielded wire was causing most of your grief with this project .
With gas shielded wire .023 wire I have done my share of panel repair . Without near the grief you had .
Most often it was for inspection so I would just overlap the entire area being repaired by a inch or so . Weld enough to keep it secure grind and smooth with fiberglass
Doing a butt joint in sheet metal would be one of the hardest you could make.
With gas shielded wire .023 wire I have done my share of panel repair . Without near the grief you had .
Most often it was for inspection so I would just overlap the entire area being repaired by a inch or so . Weld enough to keep it secure grind and smooth with fiberglass
Doing a butt joint in sheet metal would be one of the hardest you could make.
#26
Registered User
4-I use no eye shield. I set 1/8 inch of wire out of tip and use second hand to steady the tip. With gloves on, second hand holds tip just off the metal seam but not on the seam. I close eyes, look away and pull the trigger. As soon as I get an arc, I immediately make a very small swing in tip across the seam to the other panel. More than a second will burn through. Keep adjusting welder until you get it. Expect some to burn through. Nature of the beast.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Terrible terrible terrible idea..
Just use a mask and you can actually see the weld.
#27
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
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I had to weld a large section of the bed side onto my truck, and i found a solution better than welding. Its a two part epoxy (expensive, but cheaper than a welder) u put it where u want to join the two panels, clamp it and wait. No chance of warping, no grinding, no holes, less chance for rust. idk if warping is a major problem for welding that small space but i'd use a mig if at all possible. muuuccchh better.
#29
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Evansville, IN
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Heres the fiberglass panels I used panelbond on.
First I put it in place with selftapping screws. Then when I used the panelbond I used some aluminum rivets in place of the screws and it was perfectly lined up.
A little further into the build.
Current condition vvvvvvv
Quick link to all my projects incluing my 88 Safari Van convertible http://www.flickr.com/photos/widebodyaccord/page7/
Last edited by 1979Hand-me-down; 03-17-2010 at 06:43 PM.
#31
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I've had it on for about 2 years now and haven't had any problems with it coming undone. Its a permanent bond. I would ruff up the surface before using it. I grinded mine down to the metal just to me safe.
#32
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Interesting.
I might just use this and epoxy a panel behind the sheet-metal in my rust-hole, then fill the reast with bondo.
Not a bad idea. Especially since i'm an amateur body guy hehehe
I might just use this and epoxy a panel behind the sheet-metal in my rust-hole, then fill the reast with bondo.
Not a bad idea. Especially since i'm an amateur body guy hehehe
#33
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#35
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#36
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I would still do 'glass, sand it smooth, then skimcoat with bondo.
You really shouldn't be using bondo to fill, especially on something that might flex.
You really shouldn't be using bondo to fill, especially on something that might flex.
#38
Registered User
So fiberglass ftw?
ill probably post up a help thread sometime this summer when i go to do this lol.
or ill end up cutting parts of another bed off and welding them in
ill probably post up a help thread sometime this summer when i go to do this lol.
or ill end up cutting parts of another bed off and welding them in