Ok, I am wondering if anyone can tell me how much in a 4link would cost in materials? not including shocks/coilovers, but does anyone have a list? Its gonna be one of my main projects this summer. I know ballistic fab makes a bracket kit i was looking at on xtreme4x4, plus the jonny joints, and link materials. i was thinking of going cheap with coils like from an aerostar till fall when i can save up for some air shocks or coilovers.

Thanks

 

I think it will cost as much as you want it to.

You can buy a full kit for less than 3k, so i would guess you could fab your own for 1-2k, again, depending on what you put into it.

 

Really im thinking i can get all the metal for like 400-600 then spend 500 on racerunner 16in air shocks.

I basically need a list of what and how many tabs are needed i know ill need link mounting tabs, i think im gonna get this piece of gear:
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...p_24-1165.html

Along with other tabs, most likely the johnny joints. Then have a buddy build the links with everything.

I thought about the trailgear kit, but i want it to be able to go to the trail until i can afford the new tundra(too long from now.) I am reading on pirate about setup and what not too.

 

You won't even get just the DOM links for $400-600...or barely.

Then you have jonny joints or heims...and that is another $300-400 or so for good stuff.

Then you got $200-300 for a truss and then another $100-150 or so for the brackets/tabs.

THEN you got shocks at $200+ each or coilovers $500-650 each.

I'd try using your calculator again.

 

I didn't use one, once i saw the price for joints i figured it would go up. I have a hook up with DOM so im not worried aboot that. Ill be using ballistic fab for mostly everything.

Im gonna start collecting parts now and see how far i can get by the end of the summer. Im gonna bust my bum and hopefully have the front with new leafs, longs, 5.29 w aussie. Twin Stick, Interior roll cage, and a regular bed with a bestop canopy. its gonna be sweet Then ill 4link it. But who knows i might get some alcans instead i mean ill pay half of the price of a 4link.

 

Well, then 1-2k was pretty spot on, wasn't it? Seems 4-600 and then 500 equals 900-1100, right?

 

What?

 

Here is what I did to my 4 runner and I stuck with the coil springs. All the mounts are from Ballistic Fab($143.95 for all brackets), 4ea threaded and 4ea weld on Johnny joints($349.24). Links are mad from 1.75" x .375 wall DOM ($9-10 a foot)

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/smashmet...04313215272/69

I just added up every receipt I have, that included, parts with shipping, material, hardwear and the machine work that I had done. Grand total $827.47 and I still need to buy shocks!

 

Little hard to tell from the photo, however it looks like the JJ's on the uppers at the diff end are mounted bolts horizontal.
It's this correct ?
They should be vertical.
The strength rating of the joints are the shear rating, not the compression rating.



Fred

 

Your going to have to explain this one a little more, this is a better pick of how everything is mounted.

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/smashmet...04326748343/81

The reason I ask is because this is the first I have ever heard of this, I have seen 3 links mounted like you've mentioned but not a 4 link.

 

HAHAHA wabbit thanks i was wondering if the 3link from tg is worth it and road worthy? Does anyone know anyone with it?

TIA

 

Have you read this yet? here is TG's development of there 3 link.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=518894

 

3 link/4 link it's all the same as long as we're talking about triangulated uppers.
It make no difference if the two uppers meet at the diff as one (a 'V' shape) or if they stay as two separate arms at the diff.
They are easier to adjust as two arms than if the meet as a single.

Anyway, the stress is side to side. Remember that they are taking over the function of the trackbar that is registering the axle, side to side.
The bolt(s) on the ends at the diff should be vertical, not horizontal.
Placing the bolts horizontal (sideways) puts the stress on them as compression. Their strength is rated for shear, that is they should to be mounted vertical.


Fred

 

He's using a trackbar, not triangulated uppers.

However it shows that you can get plenty of flex with a trackbar and you'll certainly have better on road manners.

In his case he's only using one upper.
A regular 5 link (2 lowers, 2 uppers, and a trackbar), if the joints are designed correctly (like J-Joints) provides a ton of flex. More than most will ever need.




Fred

 

I think ill go with the tg kit with lots of oil in the racerunner air shox, the truck will need to be able to drive on the road, im not gonna be able to drive it like a race car anyways. The tg kit should save me some coin as well.

 

the TG kit is available now linky and looks to be a fair amount of bang for your buck

 

I just asked chris if they have the stock kit in yet. I need a bed, plus i dont want a 120" wheelbase.

 

You can build a 4-link cheap if you can fab. Go to a junk yard and get your springs for a Jeep or a full size truck ( based on the lift you want) and axle( if needed). Now for the shocks you have to get out the tape and see what will work. The links will be the easiest, you just need to get, I think it like inch and a half tube and cut to lenght you need. Ok, get the eyes for any speed shop, then take the eyes and tudes to someone that can put the threads to match.

 

Thanks, thats what i planned on doing, but to take the guess work outta it i think i will do the trail gear kit and use enough oil to make it semi stable.

 

wrong. with a "wishbone" style upper, the bolt needs to be vertical because there is side to side force on the joint as well as front to back. since its an upper, there is little chance it will see up/down forces.

with two separate triangulated uppers (assuming 40* or more triangulation) the side to side forces of the axle are redirected and the joints see only front to back forces relative to the link itself, not the vehicle as a whole. with triangulated uppers, it doesnt matter how the joints are mounted as long as they do not bind during flex.