Anyone know the cost? Has anyone ever done it before? If so Do they have a parts list at all?

 

https://www.yotatech.com/search.php?searchid=434852

Try that thread...

 

I like this pictorial:

http://www.toy4runner.com/ <-Black SAS 96

Other than that, you can just look for any 96+ tacoma SAS, since they have the same front end.

The 4runner rears obviosuly have coils rather than leaf springs, so you have to figure that one out.

 

There have been a few...

44Runner has one, he hasn't posted rescently though. I'll be doing one in a little over a year, but... thats a year from now...

 

Yeah, the SAS has been done many times. Check out my site: http://www.yotataco.com
go to mods > SAS. I also have a price list on there that is downloadable as an excel file. You should expect to spend $4,000 unless you half ass it like some. Because I fab'd nearly all of my "brackets" I saved a lot. You should expect to spend more if you want lockers. Anyway, good luck.

Brenton

 

If you need to ask for price, you don't need one.

If you don't know how it happens, you don't need one.

There will come a time when you are tired of breaking CV's, folding steering and never having the front end aligned when you will sell your first born to be rid of it.

 

aint that the truth.

go read pirate4x4 for a few months, and decide if whether or not its for you.

Adrian hit the nail on the head.

 

Come on now, $4000?? Where are you getting ripped off at? I can do it for 2 g's.

 

If you can do it for $2000 and will say that spending $4000 means you are getting ripped off then you obviously understand what is involved. Why did you even start this thread?

I think the last SAS done by somebody on this board was WATRD and his his '01 Taco. Check out this thread for the report.

 

Thanks Casey.

Like Lance said, if you can do it for 2k, then do it. People vary a lot on what count as part of the swap, but I know that with Toy stuff, a person is looking at $1400 just for a high pinion ARB locked diff.

If all you want to do is get a solid axle with an open diff, stock inner axles, joints and stubs plus you build all the brackets and do all the welding, then sure I bet you could get some good stuff for $2k, but you would be no better off than with IFS.

 

What do you mean no better than IFS? are you nuts? Im not trying to start a flame here, but my buddy has an 88 and he did it for under 2 grand, and that thing flexes like a MOFO. Not to mention it was really well done. All he did was use auto wrecker parts for the leaf springs etc, and build basically all the brackets etc... Now I can pick up my SA for about 200 bucks, the leafs and stuff from the wreckers, the high steer kit for 550, all the shocks etc for cheap.. I dont see how you couldnt get it under 2 grand if you just waited it out and got some good parts. And no, I dont need the front locked right now as I have the e-locker. Mayble ill do it later.

 

An '88 isn't in the same realm as a '96 SAS. What kind of axle for $2k? Toyota right? How would you fit a Toy axle under a '96? How would you increase the width? Does your price include the new transfer case you'll need to match it? How about the new oil pan to clear? How are you going to lift the multilink rear end? Convert to '88 leafs?

What I'm saying is an '88 is relatively easy becasue it was originally a SA truck. The 3rd Gen never was. Most use a Cherokee D44 axle to avoid swapping the xfer case. $4k would be a deal. If I did it, I'd want coils up front with a fzj80 coil axle and swap in a t100 case. In reality it'd make more sense to just buy a '97 fj and start from there.

 

Well there is no point in even starting a big post over this. Basically im going to do it, and ill update you guys with the cost and pics etc. And we'll see whos right isntead of just bickering lol.

 

no doubt just start buying parts. the first thing you need to do is buy an axle and if you plan on rebuilding it, putting chevy flat top knuckles on it, and re-gearing it with a locker theres 2 grand. the ball joints, spindle bearings, seals, hubs, hub bearings, seals, wheel studs, knuckle studs, rotors and brakes add up to about $500. then buy a locker, gears and a rebuild kit, and the pinion adapter from jess if you are using toy drive lines theres $600 to $1200 depending on your chices. might as well get your spring perches and brakelines too, @ around $100. the machined chevy knuckle and stock flat top knuckle are atlest $100 plus the cost of a donor axle.

do all that and the fun is just beginning, unless its just for show it takes some money for the "sas mod"

 

not going to re-gear it right now... just gonna leave it open.. remember im SAS'ing this for future uses, not right now.. id just rather get it done and over with while I have the cash.. not going all out. I have about 3000 to spend.

 

So say I can get it done for 2 grand.. and even more max 2500-3000... wouldnt you rather do that then put in a 1700 dollar IFS lift? Hell ya! its worth the cost. And if you look at Fourbychef's SAS.. holy crap, he got ripped off. Thats all I gotta say... a 600 dollar drive shaft? holy ˟˟˟˟. hes also including every single tool INCLUDING A HAMMER... who adds a hammer to a price list? and lifting blocks?? umm I think i have those... you seriously dont need 1/2 the things he has written up, and the other half hes paying WAY too much.. ever heard of the auto wreckers? is everyone in the states just rich or stupid? not a flamer on united staters, im also half american...

 

Some people wanna do it right, use good parts that are new. Its better to do it right the first time. I sure as hell would do it right the first time so i dont have to go back and fix crap later. If i were you i would take as much advise from yotatech guys as i could get, especially ones that have done the SAS themselves.

I dont think it is appropriate to come on here and bash people on how much money they spent, and "how ripped off" they got. We'll see who has a better quality rig in the end.

 

Why buy a $600 dollar drive shaft?

Let me ask you this, where is the sense in buying a cheap driveshaft and then having to spend the $600 to get the quality correct driveshaft. Spending the initial 600 is cheaper than spending a grand for 2 driveshafts. Pretty much what Cody said....

 

Im not talking about getting crappy parts. You cant tell me theres no way of getting good parts cheap through friends and wreckers. Im just saying im going to do it for cheap, but its gonna be good... I think this post should just end here and Ill keep you guys posted on current costs as they come.

 

The only reason to swap is to get joints you can trash on. If you don't get that, you have not wheeled the IFS enough to need one.

Swap it, paint it pink, run 33's, I don't care. You asked a question and it has been answered.