I'm looking at fabricating a custom intake that get the filter up by the fire wall where my cruise control is. From this area, I plan to route a bypass into the cab with a way to block off the outside air intake for deep water crossings.

I've gone to a few muffler shops about bending the pipe for this and all they can do is either 2 1/2" or 3". 2 3/4" is what the flexible hose coming off the TB is. If I go to 2 1/2" is it going to be restrictive? Or does all the restriction happen at the AFM and its inlet?

Any thoughts?

 

AFM is where all the restiction is. I don't think that you'll have much, if any, of a decrease in power. I can't really see it being that restrictive.

 

Three bottlenecks of diameter 1 is worse than 1 bottle neck of diameter 1. So even though the bottlenecks are all equal, the more you have of them the worse it is. Each bottleneck introduces losses.

Whether the losses are significant or not in this application, I don't know.

 

How about that flexible gutter drain piping? Don't know if the suction is great enough to collapse the pipe but they are fairly strong, large diameter and easy to cut... ?

 

Mike,
I'm in the process of fabing up a scoop for my intake also. It will consist of a small scoop, probably mounted to the hood just in front of the driver, with tubing routed to the stock airbox. I'm planning on using 3" hose to connect the parts. Marine stores sell a 3" semi-flexible hose used for wet exhaust systems on boats that should work well, but is very expensive. I think I have a one-way drain figured out to allow rainwater to exit the system without letting high water flood in. I'll get the rest of the parts I need this weekend and I'll let you know how it works. Should look pretty good and end up costing about $50 for the average Joe.

 

pm yotatech member brucets he has done this to his third gen i'm sure he could give you some tips

 

Suction isn't strong enough to collapse the pipe. There are several trucks in town that have this setup. The pipe runs out the side and up to the roof of the truck. Looks incredibly white trash.

 

Sweet! That's the look I'M going for!

 

Not sure if you wanted to be a little fancy...but look into an "exhaust cut out" for switching between snorkel and normal modes. There are manual, cable, and electric ones. I did a quick google and came up with these...

http://www.lmperformance.com/2898/20.html

http://go.mrgasket.com/ProductDetail...&minselection=

http://www.midwestsho.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id/248

 

PoBoy - those are great links! I was thinking about that, but was going down the road of a "blast gate" for a dust collection system instead. The exhaust cutout makes much more sense! They even come in the right sizes... Thanks!!

 

Hey, if they can make an electric one, maybe I'll do a custom air operated one. Might as well make the most of the OBA...

 

Just make sure you know what you are getting. When I was looking into this project, I found some that still leave the stock exhaust open too. It looks like the manual ones you just remove the plate and that's that...no seal for the other end. So just make sure you know what you are buying. I found a really slick electric one that sealed both ends AIR tight...so there was no worry. I cannot seem to google it anymore though. I think I posted it on 4x4wire...ill try and dig it up

 

Here is a spleny electric one: http://www.buickgn.com/exhaustcutoutgallery.htm - again though...looks like it will only seal one end. I guess you could buy two. Or maybe do the airbox mod and use the stock intake for the snorkel intake and put a cutoff on it - basically like Tbruce's, but a little more flare. Or just leave the snorkel in effect and just switch off teh stock intake with a cut out.

I swear there was one that sealed both sides electically.

 

OK, I've been digging into this. While these cutouts are the cat's ass, I need to do something much cheaper and more compact. I plan on a combo of a couple of deckplates - one on the custom airbox, and one on the end of an intake tube routed into the interior. It's a snug fit, but "should" work.

I was going to attempt going under the brake master cylinder, but that route made it difficult to fit the AFM anywhere. The latest idea is to go around the end of it.

Below are a few pics of the Cressida AFM I'm planning to use and a mockup of where the intake tube will go. My template is based on 3" tube and the bend radii are commonly available mandrel bends.







Now, I need to figure out if I do regular steel (cheapest - I'd get it powder coated), stainless steel or aluminum...

 

Here are the comparo pics of the 3VZE and the 7MGE AFM's. I'm hoping to improve the breathing by using the 7MGE. This unit is off of a 89 Cressida.











The connector plug is the same on both and the holes/studs on the inlet side are the same pattern/spacing. I also took some measurements..

3VZE AFM - P/N 197100-2920

Inlet Dim: 1.91"h x 1.93"w
Outlet Dim: 2.585" inside diameter (2.8" outside)
Overall Height: 3.28"h

7MGE AFM - P/N 197100-3630

Inlet Dim: 2.48"h x 1.93"w
Outlet Dim: 2.9" inside diameter (3.15" outside)
Overall Height: 3.88"h

This info was buried in another thread, so I thought I'd post it here.

EDIT: Pic links fixed.

 

Lights and/or photoshop are your friends.

 

 

Haha.
I was thinking more like this.





BTW, you need to clean your engine!

 

I ordered up the 3" tubing today.

16 ga 3" OD mandrel bend 4" CLR J Bend in mild steel. I'll be powdercoating everything when I'm done.

I got enough to do two of these. If there is any interest, I'll make more.

I need to figure out the silicone couplers now...

 

Find a local guinea pig with a 3rd gen! (ummm, specifically a 96! )