After the carnage from the last comp my partner Sloth was convinced he needed a flat bottom so.....

we started with one of these from www.budbuilt.com …

comes with all the seals and hardware

prep for installl...

You will need to drill out the threading on holes 1-3. You will also need to remove the hole pin below hole 4 and above hole 8.
Installed. I know the hole looks big but we clearanced the floor enough that the crawler will clear once added

and recoverd


The duct tape covers the hole where the t-case shifter was. This is where it’s at after being clocked. Mods to the shifter is something we'll address later. When we do get around to it, we'll add it to the thread.

Clocked t-case. The bar across the bottom of the pic is clamped to the bottom of the frame rails. Hello flat bottom!


We've been busy…..
Chopped off the rear of the frame, shortened the wheel base and will cage up from here.

still got alot of tube to bend and add.

 

Nice work. how is that front drive shaft angle now?

 

Good ? seaflea! It's quite steep right now but once the second t-case is added, it should be fine.

 

Ok, I wasnt thinking that. Are you going with a waggy axle too or remaining IFS?

 

It's had a waggy for quite a while now. SAS PICS (don't forget to watch the little AVI movie)
Here's the scoop.

SAS'd with a waggy D44
knuckles rotated 9*
ARB equip't
5.38's
44044's with 2 leafs removed
bil 7800's

63" chevies
TRD E lokt rear
5.29's

37" MTR's

approx 112" wheelbase now
flat bottom now
dual cases to come

 

Sorry, I didn't know.
the swap looks awesome. Love the pics. You guys do great work!

 

Had the previlage of doing some of the prototype stuff with bud on that clocking ring. It was cool but I got my cases almost level with my frame rails so I never bothered to get a clocking ring. Let me know how you like it.

 

Got my clocking ring in last Thrusday and will install it in a few weeks...

 

Those pics made clocking a t-case look easy....Is it necessary in all applications to cut the hole in the floor? I have a 1" BL on my taco that at least gives some extra room once the t-case is rotated up. What else is involved? Does the entire t-case have to be disassembled or can you just detach the entire case from the tranny, bolt in the ring, and put the case back on?

When I was looking at my case today, I noticed that the front driveshaft angle will increase a lot, is this going to be a big prob for a DD truck? Ok, here's a noob question, when I'm in 2WD, the front driveshaft doesn't spin does it (I know the front axle shafts still spin cause I had ADD hubs)? If it doesn't spin, it seems that the angle might be alright since I'm usually not in 4WD.

I've been thinking about a flat bottom a lot lately and any input is appreciated because I don't know much about this t-case clocking business...Thanks

 

bump...im curious about 4x4taco's questions...

 

This is going to be a tough decision. Clock the transfer or raise the drivetrain. I guess it comes down to is which method has the least drivetrain angles.

James

 

when you are in 2WD you front shaft does not spin.

You are still IFS right? Your driveshaft angle shouldn't be that bad.

T-case clocking is what you need to look at for a flat bottom. It raises WAY less weight than a drivetrain lift which is always a good thing.

Go Hokies...

 

My clocking ring is still sitting on the shelf...... still waiting for Marlin to get re-organized after the shop move locations. He want's to help me install it, which I don't mind since he has a mill to machine off a 1/4" of the crawbox adaptor, this way the coupler still achieves full spline contact. Other things that will need to be done is modifying the shifters so they come up in the proper location. Since I have an 1 1/2" body lift, there should be enough clearance between the t-case and body, if not I'll just pound up the sheetmetal with a ball peen hammer.

 

so with IFS and a suspension lift this should be fine right. wouldnt it help the driveline angle not to install a diff drop (theoretically)? of course then your cv angles would be done for.

anyone have a pic of before and after on a 95+ runner or tacoma?

 

another ? in addition to those of mine above not answered:

FROR told me that you have to use dual cases to clock a t-case. seems as that is not 100% correct.

could i get just the ring, make my own crossmember, delete the stock crossmember, and have a clocked case on stock t-case working correctly?

thanks