hey, anyone have any good tips on how to keep a sammie cool sense i cant fit a huge radiator in the space provided.

i thought about remoting the radiator to the back, what would all be involved in this?
thanks

wade

 

i don't know about car/truck specifics but i would just cut one of the existing radiator hoses and tap into that. add in an extra pump because i doubt the stock pump could flow enough water.
if it's summer time you can use straight water. it will transfer more heat but it will boil at a lower temp than coolant/water. if you use just water you can mix in that "40 below" or whatever it's called. i've never used it but it's supposed to help transfer more heat. adjusting/advancing the timing may help too. i had really bad overheating problems on my car and when i found out it was locked at 10 degrees then the problem was fixed.

of course more airflow over the radiator is obvious. add a fan that flows more air if you can

 

geiger didnt use an additional pump on his, i wouldnt recommend using straight water

 

Totaly agree with Napoleon about not using all water and staying with a high flow fan. An electric radiator fan that pulls the air in would help. Getting a thermastat with a lower temp like 180 would help too. I am not sure if there is a Sammie after market performance water pump. But, if there was that something else to consider too.

Summary:

Low temp thermostat 180
Electric radiator fan high flow puller
Performance water pump (if it's available)
Stay with coolant / water mix 60/40

 

is there any reason for why you shouldn't run all water? or just because?

 

Coolant contains additives that reduce corrision and clean some types of scaling (form of oxidation). Coolant primary reason is to increase temp that water boils at.

Do you actually read your vehicle manuals?

 

lol no i don't. i was just wondering what the reasoning was and you make a good point

i could see the corrosion issue but a dash of alcohol would cure that, wouldn't it? or distilled water? i also pointed out above that it would lower the boiling temp.

 

well im running a 4.3 chevy so i dont think a additional pump would be neccasary for running a remote radiator,

just to cover my tail and make sure i have this right,

just build a coolant delivery/return system onto your rig somewhere, mount the radiator and fan, and then your set? nothing else special?

thanks
wade

 

Alcohol? That may keep bacteria from growing in the water but that's about it. Distilled water or any other flavor of water by itself isn't a good idea either.

Coolant (aka antifreeze) also has additives to inhibit electrolysis, which is the source of corrosion. Electrolysis occurs when you submerge two dissimilar metals in water, such as an aluminum head and iron block. The Aluminum head will erode over time, regardless of how good of a grounding strap you have on it and the block. This is why you have to occasionally flush and refill the coolant, the inhibitors get used up over time and the coolant no longer has the ability to protect the engine.

You should use a 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant, distilled water to avoid adding extra minerals into the mix. And don't bother with that green crap, it's worthless. Toyota red coolant is the best stuff I've seen, it's expensive but it's worth it.



Back to the topic, I agree that you don't need any extra pumps and put a good fan on it. The other problem that may surface is air pockets, try to route the lines so that there's as few places for air to get trapped as possible.

 

thanx for clarifying.

 

oh yeah, i forgot to mention that. ideally, the highest point in your cooling system should be your fill point as well.

as far as plumbing is concerned, 1.5" or 2" copper pipe and fittings woulds work well.