I am actually off moday, but there the rest of the week..

Well, you gotta remember who's rig it was in

R_R_R_R_R_R_R_R_R_R_R_R_R_R

 

Ok, time for some updates. I have been poking thru it and been gaining momentum on it until I had a battle with a pack of midgets, but, thats another story for another day

Ok, once the mounts on the frame were done, I lifted the motor up and painted the frame in the mount area.



So, now it was time to figure out exactly what was in the rig. I know markus wil find this funny but man, was it packed. I went thru everything and was able to organize it all, and look markus

 

So now that I knew what was there and not there, it was time to assemble all the items that belonged on the motor. I took and cleaned everything, painted what needed to be painted and then began putting them in there proper places. Everything went smoothly with no supprises luckily (well a couple, but we can plame those on them damn midgets )

And here is the motor with most items in place. The only difference in this intake compared to the stock one, was the location of the EGR but it posed no problems except if you wanted to run the stock plastic vacuum line.



The bracket that holds the map/egr soloniod bolted right up (good thing because I painted it before checking, damn midgets again )



Here are the drive belt items.



Here is the one thing I had to make for the drive belt stuff, just a support for the power steering pump.

 

Here is one of the items that needed attention.



It was pretty rusted up and barely turned, so I dissassembled it and cleaned as much of the rust. The only things you are really concerned with (I see them rusted on rigs all the time, not abnormal) is the magnet assembly doesn't make contact with the pole piece with the fingers, and you also want to make sure the top flat area of the mainshaft still has magnatism.


Here is one thing I did find wrong, the valve covers are on the wrong sides,lol. That doesn't need correcting right now so I will deal with that later.



Some versions of the 4.3 put the knock sensor on the side of the block in the 1/4" npt block drains and some blocks were tapped for it near the bellhousing. Either place will work, but most times you plain/simply don't have the room on top of the block.



Since this is an AA bellhousing adapter, it also came with a brand new cover. I found that it needed to be notched near the main seal area/inner edge of where the pan sits, and the outer edge near the starter to clear the clutch slave. I also found the stock starter won't work with this aplication(bellhosing is too narrow on the outer edge). You will also find the 4 holes to mount the cover have no threads, and I think it comes with sheet metal screws. But you can easily tap them to 8-24 for a small bolt. Thats what I did, I hate sheet metal screws.

 

Unfortunatly markus removed his old 3.0 the hard way, by removing the harness off the motor. I always suggest removing the harness with the motor, unless the midgets get to it first, damn midgets

But I removed the glove box and kick panel, removed the ecm and then pulled the harness out of the rig.



Here is the stock gm harness, both the engine portion and what was under the dash.



And after about 20 minutes of work here is all I will be needing of the GM stuff.



Here is how I always start my harnesses, just plug them in and start running the wires, heck done it enough times kinda like a kid in a sandbox.



I am also going to run the wires for the a/c compressor since I am not 100% (not sure markus is either) if he is going to run OBA down the road(the rig will be pre-wired for it). Granted, these R4 compressors are kinda worthless for the most part for an OBA aplication.

 

I figured it was time to mount the new ecm. usually in the past I would remove the section of airbox that joints the blower to the main box, notch/mold it for the ecm so the glove box would need very little trimming. But this is the first one that I have done that has A/C. So, with A/C that area houses the evaporator core and is just too big, so I had to go for the other option since the ecm has to be mounted in this manner.



So I removed the glove box from the portion of the dash that it rest's in and started notching.



And then notched the glove box itself.



And look, it actually closes now,lol. Its going to need a tad more for the ecm connectors once the wiring is in place.

 

So with that done, and knowing where the ecm is, it is now time to get the motor wired up.

 

Wow Crash, looks like I did a fairly decent job of grabbing everything off the donor engine! Looks really nice. I will be running OBA. Just not sure when or what. What do you recommend?

 

Mike, shoot me an email on your parts needs. While Markus is out of town he'll be touching base with me for updates. He will not have Internet access.

 

And here is how the engine wiring turned out. One thing that I am very anal about, and something you will see on every rig I do, is one loom going from the motor to the body. It just drives me nuts to have multiple looms going from the engine over.



I had to just pre-wire for the o2 sensor (wireing it for a heated o2 so it will go into closed loop quicker), the fan control switch and the oil pressure sender wires.



Here is where the loom goes down to the starter and temp sensor(don't have them yet) and back on top fo the trans for the back up lamp switch (and pre-wired it for a 4wd switch in case marku's wants one).

 

Markus does not have a oil dipstick that will work. It went right into the header tube. Any thought?

 

Wholey crap, now, this is what happens when you give a keg to a bunch of midgets, and tell them to wire something up, sheesh.....
Damn, aint that just a flippin mess.



Ahh, now, doesn't that look a little better I typically never wrap my wiring in tape, due to the nature if you ever need to modify it, you gotta rig that crap off (if any of you remember the monster rig I built for scott lackey, ugh, stinkin tape). But I did in this aplication since the glove box assembly wil be up against it in a few spots. For the fuel pump relay, I just modified a circuit for the circuit opening relay. All I did was remove the power feed the relay gets from the start circuit and used the fuel pump control wire from the ecm to the input to the relay that used to be from the start circuit. Worked like a champ.



Here is where I put the esc module (thats the module I am missing markus, that one is my spare for my rig). Now, this module is made to go on the engine, or the firewall, but I like to hide them under the dash so there is one less thing cluttering the engine bay area up.

 

It will work, made mine work

 

Here is where I stuck the aldl, or dlc, depending on who you talk to



A little trimming, and there ya go, it opens/closes with no issues.



Finally, time to crawl out from under the dash. I figured it was time to fix them valve covers. Now, that looks better.



So time to get the rest of the wiring in the engine compartment finished. So I started by ripping the A/c and abs stuff out.

 

So Crash now that I am home, I can get tomorrow or Sunday to look for the parts. I will get them together and I will either make the trip to your house or to your job! But Crash, I need some more pictures if possible, I am drooling here!

 

Sorry Marcus,
Crash's garage burned down last night, he was only able to get the buggy out

















NOT!!!!

Welcome back. I dropped the spud shaft off at his work Wednesday.

 

Pics

I will hopefully have some tommorow. Am working on the wiring on the drivers side and just about done...

 

Crash, on the fan. Should I get it with or without the thermo temp control?

 

Here is a lil update. I finally got most of the engine wiring done.

Here is the passenger side near the relay/fuse box.



The front cross harness



I pre-wired the coolant fan and in-cab winch controls.



And here is the drivers side. As you can see there is no more strung on the firewall. I incorpurated all the alarm wiring into the harness, and added the coolant fan relay and the relay for the OBA system in case markus wants to hook it up... ( the harness is pre-wired over ro the passenger fenderwell for a control switch of some kind).

 

So now that a fair amount of the engine wiring is done, decided to start this.