Got a chance to get back into it, and finally got the frame all done and ready for the steering box(On my design I usually only plate the one side of the frame and sleeve it)



Before I fully welded up the frame I mounted the box and removed the sanderson header and made a new steering shaft (old one was too short and way too wide). And as I suspected the steering shaft was going to hit the header. So I marked the header where the shaft was hitting. Here is how I dimple the header. Just take a piece of small diameter tube, wrap it up with electrical tape (if your header is ceramic coated the tape doesn't let the coating be damaged.



As you can see, it puts a nice rounded dimple in the header.

 

So I mounted the steering box and steering shaft (after a little cussing trying to get that damn pitman arm off)




And there is roughly 3/16" clearance on the header to steering shaft, plenty.

 

So now that was done, I decided to get the heater hoses, hose to the brake booster, new distributor cap/rotor and drive belt put on.

 

again, great work crash. and good idea on the header dimple.

loving the hammered paint on everything too. same stuff on my sliders and t-case skid.

 

I know that the site for the pics is down. So when is it coming back online?

 

Ok so I ordered a summit overflow tank with a site glass. Of course they dont have yellow, so I ordered blue!

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp

 

Ok we finally got the server back up and going. We lost the HD so I have to go thru and re-configure a bunch of stuff, so be ready for alot of updates

 

woo-hoo we love updates!! Crash, you do the nicest work I have ever seen....looked at your 4.3 swap on your truck (on pirate)-also the work done on upndair's rig is awesome!! Keep up the fantastic work!! (wishing I lived on your side of the country!)

 

Thanks, I try......

 

Ok, now that we have our server all back up and runing, its time to play catch up on what I have done.. So I sent markus a list of items I was missing and he stopped by work (he too blamed the midgets,,,,, damn midgets ) and dropped a pile of goodies off to me.

So the first Item was the toy temp sensor. Now the block still had the plug in the passenger head. The factory plugs are a 5/16 square drive, and let me tell ya, it was REALLY in there.



As you can see, I broke my snap on tool and rounded the damn thing off too much for a new tool to grab it(sorry about the bad pics. and I also had a 1/2 rachet with apipe on the damn thing). Well now the plug is pretty much screwed so I took a 5/8 nut and plug welded it to the plug.



And that made pretty simple work for getting the plug out.



So I used a 3/8 to 1/8" bushing and walllla, the sensor is in.



And wired up. The silver stuff is heat tape, the stuff holds up extreemly well.

 

Here is the toyota oil sender. Again I used 1/8" npt fittings.



Here is the new o2 sensor. Most your early tbi motors used a single wire o2. I always update it to a heated o2 so the system goes into whats called closed loop faster(Its a matter of running a ground and ignition feed to the sensor).



I got the accel cable bracket installed and I always use a GM factory accel cable. Its easy, all you need to do is hog the hole in the firewall to a square for the cable to pop in and then modify the accel pedal (will show that later).



With the sanderson headers, the dipstick tube won't work un-touched. You have to whack the mounting tab off and re-bend it, but it will work just fine (see gibby, told ay so )

 

I figured the next step was to finish plumbing the hydralic clutch parts. For this you can use the exhisting portion up to where the rubber portion starts.



So all you need to do is bend new hardline from the rubber portion to the clutch slave.



pretty simple and straight forward.

 

So since I was in hardline mode and got the real adjustable perportioning valve, I figured I would get the brake lines done (I just roughed them in and markus will finish off the ends since I don't have any of the rubber lines).

Brake master.




front hardline from the T over to the other side.



Line down to the fronts (both sides are the exact same)



Rear hardlines

 

The gentleman who purchased gibbys old motor/tranny dropped off the correct coupler for the dual case adapter. Looks a little different from the stock one huh So I pulled the t-cases out to install the coupler.



One thing I had found with the inchworm adapter was I had to remove some material off the tranny to clear one of the bolts.

 

So since I got the t-case in for good I figured I would finish up the shifters and the interior wiring for the switch's. Had to do some minor trimming on the tunnel along with knocking a new hole for the back t-case shifter. For the boots to seal the noise out I just take factory boots and turn them upside down(due to the body lift). This generally works very well and have had good luck with this method.



And I was able to retain the front factory covers. I had to remove the front portion of the center console (front panel the rear window switch sits and the bucket behind it) for the rear shifter. I also made a panel for the new switch's. Due to the rear heater case it took some work to figure out how to get the switchs to fit but it turned out pretty good I think (OBA,rear window, winch and fan control)





I also wired/installed the arb switch in the dash.

 

Ok as I had stated early on in the thread, due to the motor placement I would be putting the cooling fan in the front of the radiator. Markus delivered another batch of parts along with the cooling fan. I was expecting more clearance issues with the lower front cross support. Here is how the fan turned out (I was able to mount the fan to the radiator without using those zip tie do dads).







As you can see there was not alot of trimming needed (3/16" on the top and about a 1/4" on the bottom)

 

Another item that needed modification was the support bracket for the hood latch. I ended up taking the plasma to it and notching it for the motor on the clloing fan. And since notching it took alot of the strength out of it I added a gusset to it.





One thing that you need to do when running a GM pump is you need a power steering cooler due these pumps being a higher volumn than the toy pumps and you will easily overheat and boil the fluid out. So I got a 10"x5"x1" tranny cooler and made brackets for it.



I then took the GM power steering hose, cut the end off it(box side) and then took the donor toyota hose and cut the n off it. Then I flaired the toyota fitting onto the gm hose. Now, one thing you have to be careful with doing this is the factory gm high pressure hoses are thicker(metal portion) and typically are harder to flare. I have broken 2 tools trying to do these but you have to lube the flare die up and go slow with the tool. The aftermarket hoses are thinner and no problem doing. I ran the hoses from the cooler to the box/pump and now the power steering is now done.





Since the grill was sitting in the back of the rig I figured I would toss it on.

 

here are the completed heater hoses.



I was able to talk markus into running the same type of radiator hoses as I used on gibby's 350 swap. But markus got the black version, which I personally like alot more (never been a chrome fan).







The lower hose a tight fit, but I made it all work...

 

Here are a few odds/ends.

Here are the new plug wires. This is the MSD generaic v8 set(don't make one for a v6) that is cut to fit (have used this set on 5 rigs so far).



Here is the painless fan control switch



This motor origionally had the remote oil fiter, and that crap needed to go..



Now it took a little digging thru the parts books at work but I fiannly found the correct filter nipple.(gm part #14081300).



It simply screws into the block and you are done(don't let the 2 threaded holes fool ya, they just hold the OEM filter adapter to the block. And now you can use a spin on filter

 

Well the time had come to finally get the fuel lines done. Markus had gotten a couple of those saginaw-an adapters but I have never liked them. I alsohad ordered a trick little tool that will let me flare the o-ring style of crimp on hardlines (expensive little bugger) but I haven't gotten it. napa carries 18" sections of 3/8 & 5/16 hardlines with the gm o-ring flair on one end (napa part # for the 3/8" is 730-4929 and I can't find the # for the 5/16 but it shouldn't be hard to figure it out knowing the 3/8" part #).

Here are the hardlines at the throttle body.



Here are the rubber lines from the motor to the frame rail. I used barb fittings to ensure the hoses would never come off,lol..



Down the frame rail



WE used a GM fuel filter.



And here are the lines at the tank. The toyota hardline is close to 5/16" hardline. So what you do is cut the hardline and remove the metric fitting and drill it out to 3/8" and then flair the fitting onto the hardline. The 5/16" return line I hused used rubber line to a barb fitting on the hardline.