Why you kept your IFS?????
#41
Originally posted by lcopelan22
Yeah I'm glad someone agrees that solid-swaps can be rather cheap! I got dogged out on the matter about a month ago. "he did a swap for under $900 (at least he claims -- yawn.)" that's what "KING" had to say. Anyway there's tons of SMART A's on this site. I'm just glad that some people actually have done them "cheaper" than I have. I was starting to think that I was the solid axle swap bargain shopper or something. It's very possible for $800-900 even with the hi-steer. I like what someone said about the the stock SA spring hanger. That's exactly what i did except I sawzalled it off that truck and welded it to mine -- cost me nothing!
Yeah I'm glad someone agrees that solid-swaps can be rather cheap! I got dogged out on the matter about a month ago. "he did a swap for under $900 (at least he claims -- yawn.)" that's what "KING" had to say. Anyway there's tons of SMART A's on this site. I'm just glad that some people actually have done them "cheaper" than I have. I was starting to think that I was the solid axle swap bargain shopper or something. It's very possible for $800-900 even with the hi-steer. I like what someone said about the the stock SA spring hanger. That's exactly what i did except I sawzalled it off that truck and welded it to mine -- cost me nothing!
#42
Originally posted by Tom
Ya I have seen that truck too but was unable to see the write up of what he spent and thats now where close to what I was quoted. That would definitely hold me back to yikes
Ya I have seen that truck too but was unable to see the write up of what he spent and thats now where close to what I was quoted. That would definitely hold me back to yikes
Plus, I gotta convince the wife is a necessary item
#43
Originally posted by Flygtenstein
I think that with the high cost of an axle swap that most people with IFS are no where near the limits of using it right now....
I think that with the high cost of an axle swap that most people with IFS are no where near the limits of using it right now....

Last edited by SteveO; Dec 22, 2003 at 07:59 PM.
#44
Steve. you need and in some ways deserve a solid axle based on the breaks that you have had and the lines that you have tried.
I just mean to point out that with all the bemoaning of IFS that goes on, most people have no idea what an IFS truck can do, hence the threads like an 85 is better all the time because it has a solid axle and open diffed solid axles are better than locked IFS all the time.
I just mean to point out that with all the bemoaning of IFS that goes on, most people have no idea what an IFS truck can do, hence the threads like an 85 is better all the time because it has a solid axle and open diffed solid axles are better than locked IFS all the time.
#45
Originally posted by Flygtenstein
Steve. you need and in some ways deserve a solid axle based on the breaks that you have had and the lines that you have tried.
Steve. you need and in some ways deserve a solid axle based on the breaks that you have had and the lines that you have tried.
Indeed, you are correct, most people have not really pushed their IFS to see what it can really do. I think If I was a little more careful, I would not have broken. IFS is definitely more delicate, but with care, it can traverse almost any terrain a solid axle can.
#46
the first time i broke my ifs, it was doing a hillclimb and i popped a wheelie
the second time was too much skinny pedal.
i found a place that sells dual case adapters for $275! so hopefully i wont need as much skinny pedal in the future.
the second time was too much skinny pedal.
i found a place that sells dual case adapters for $275! so hopefully i wont need as much skinny pedal in the future.
#47
I guess I'm that rare breed that will attempt to take my IFS to the limit! I am extremely happy with my choice of front suspension. I know IFS has it's limitations and as long as I stay within them, I shouldn't snap axles like SteveO did. When I watched the DVD with you climbing that boulder, I knew something was gonna give... Before I did any mods to my rig I took everything under consideration. I drive 60% streets 35% pot-holed dirt roads on construction sites and 5% fun. With my new front the ride is much smoother than stock on road and on the jobsite. As for offroad abilities, I still haven't had a chance to really give a true test. Tomorrow is gonna be a very long day, I decided to do my crawler box install after my driveshafts are ready, and hopefully I'll get my bumper in a few weeks(I had to cancel my ARB Sahara Prado bumper order which was placed Oct 5 and ordered a TJM-15 thru Xtreme Off-Road today) once I get all this done, then I'll fabricate my skid plates and rear bumper(unless TrailCarnage get his ready for public sale) Hopefully all this will be ready for the AllPro Jamboree! Then afterwards I'll adress the issue with my rear suspension.....
All in all I know SAS would be far superior for rock climbing, but where's the challenge? Like I keep saying If I go SAS I'll go buggy first, It'll cheaper in the long run. that is cheaper to repair....hehe
All in all I know SAS would be far superior for rock climbing, but where's the challenge? Like I keep saying If I go SAS I'll go buggy first, It'll cheaper in the long run. that is cheaper to repair....hehe
#48
I've kept mine because tricycling through trails with the rear locked is a ton of fun.
...That, and the fact that i'm broker than broke.
...That, and the fact that i'm broker than broke.
#49
Originally posted by jx94148
I've kept mine because tricycling through trails with the rear locked is a ton of fun.
I've kept mine because tricycling through trails with the rear locked is a ton of fun.
oh nooooo...... Not from what I saw at the CO4RJ.
More like bulling through.
#50
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: wilton, connecticut
cost of SAS
I talked to the guys at marlincrawler.com and here's how the cost would break down for an SAS. (bear in mind these prices are for an 86-95, but they should be pretty close to what you might expect IF IT IS DONE RIGHT). Labor-- $1800, axle-$300(85, used)...then, unless you want to drive around on a 18 year onl axle that been beat to crap, you need to rebuild it. If you do it all yourself(the rebuild), it will cost you about 300 for the parts. Then, you need the parts for the SAS. Though it's expensive, the high quality parts will run you about 1200-1500 bucks for:
leaf springs
shackles
new spring hangers and tube jigs for shackle mounts
u bolt flip kit
shocks
extended shock hoops
stainless steel brake lines
new rotors to retain your stock front calipers
wheel spacers since the rear axle is wider than the new front
bump stops
steering system(most use a version of all-pro's hy-steer)
if anyone tells you you can do the entire thing for less than 4 grand, they're skimping on quality parts, or don't have any idea how much labor(very skilled labor) is involved. Also, unless you have been welding professionaly for many years or are EXTREMELY confident in your own welding skills, welding on the front spring hanger yourself can become an issue of 'toying' with your life. If your welds aren't that good, just imagine what will happen if the hanger were to somehow break loose while you were driving.
one final thought...no offense to anyone, but no WAY will a solid axle ride better on the road than IFS. Yes, a solid axle is much stronger and simpler and can flex like nobody's business if done right, but you really have to think about what percent of your driving is done off-road. With lockers front and rear, a t-case crawler gear or double t-case setup, and a winch on an IFS truck, you can do everything but serious rock crawling.
leaf springs
shackles
new spring hangers and tube jigs for shackle mounts
u bolt flip kit
shocks
extended shock hoops
stainless steel brake lines
new rotors to retain your stock front calipers
wheel spacers since the rear axle is wider than the new front
bump stops
steering system(most use a version of all-pro's hy-steer)
if anyone tells you you can do the entire thing for less than 4 grand, they're skimping on quality parts, or don't have any idea how much labor(very skilled labor) is involved. Also, unless you have been welding professionaly for many years or are EXTREMELY confident in your own welding skills, welding on the front spring hanger yourself can become an issue of 'toying' with your life. If your welds aren't that good, just imagine what will happen if the hanger were to somehow break loose while you were driving.
one final thought...no offense to anyone, but no WAY will a solid axle ride better on the road than IFS. Yes, a solid axle is much stronger and simpler and can flex like nobody's business if done right, but you really have to think about what percent of your driving is done off-road. With lockers front and rear, a t-case crawler gear or double t-case setup, and a winch on an IFS truck, you can do everything but serious rock crawling.
#51
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Anchorage, Alaska
RE: IFS
I kept my IFS because its too expensive for my budget to do the SAS so I have to go with what I have stock. I don't mind the IFS anyway since I am puttin on a 4" Suspension which I don't have a problem with along with a 2" body lift. It will turn out all good and I will have saved money from not doing the SAS in the first place.
#52
Originally posted by SteveO
tricycling.....
oh nooooo...... Not from what I saw at the CO4RJ.
More like bulling through.
tricycling.....
oh nooooo...... Not from what I saw at the CO4RJ.
More like bulling through.
My gears are a tad too tall and the motor is getting a little tired after 210,000 miles. It was born tired. I could crawl and stall all day but I like to point and shoot instead sometimes.
Its the beauty of having $4000 in a ride rather than $40,000. You can beat on it and not feel too bad about it.
Someday i'll buy an 85 Runner that i'll be nicer to.
Last edited by jx94148; Jan 9, 2004 at 07:30 PM.
#53
I put solid axle under my '89 truck because it finally broke. With Lock Rights it would go as far as my solid axle has taken me. THe alignment was always out and seemed to be on three a little more as IFS. I get much more travel out of the SA.
As for cost. It can be done less than 1000, but you wouldn't see me sitting in it. It WOULD not be safe or done correctly. My SAS cost about $3400. If you are going at the time and expense to do the swap- swap the gears, add a locker and add high steer not some welded up cross over. Like another said, you also need to rebuild the 15+ year old axle.
I'd swap another. I am tossing the idea of doing my '00 runner. I prefer the ride of the SA as well as the abilities. I feel it is better than spending the money on an IFS lift. Just my opinion.
As for cost. It can be done less than 1000, but you wouldn't see me sitting in it. It WOULD not be safe or done correctly. My SAS cost about $3400. If you are going at the time and expense to do the swap- swap the gears, add a locker and add high steer not some welded up cross over. Like another said, you also need to rebuild the 15+ year old axle.
I'd swap another. I am tossing the idea of doing my '00 runner. I prefer the ride of the SA as well as the abilities. I feel it is better than spending the money on an IFS lift. Just my opinion.
#54
Originally posted by sgirt
I put solid axle under my '89 truck because it finally broke. With Lock Rights it would go as far as my solid axle has taken me. THe alignment was always out and seemed to be on three a little more as IFS. I get much more travel out of the SA.
As for cost. It can be done less than 1000, but you wouldn't see me sitting in it. It WOULD not be safe or done correctly. My SAS cost about $3400. If you are going at the time and expense to do the swap- swap the gears, add a locker and add high steer not some welded up cross over. Like another said, you also need to rebuild the 15+ year old axle.
I'd swap another. I am tossing the idea of doing my '00 runner. I prefer the ride of the SA as well as the abilities. I feel it is better than spending the money on an IFS lift. Just my opinion.
I put solid axle under my '89 truck because it finally broke. With Lock Rights it would go as far as my solid axle has taken me. THe alignment was always out and seemed to be on three a little more as IFS. I get much more travel out of the SA.
As for cost. It can be done less than 1000, but you wouldn't see me sitting in it. It WOULD not be safe or done correctly. My SAS cost about $3400. If you are going at the time and expense to do the swap- swap the gears, add a locker and add high steer not some welded up cross over. Like another said, you also need to rebuild the 15+ year old axle.
I'd swap another. I am tossing the idea of doing my '00 runner. I prefer the ride of the SA as well as the abilities. I feel it is better than spending the money on an IFS lift. Just my opinion.
#55
*****
what size were your tires and were you pretty hard on it and through the alignment out or its something that just happens no madder what
*****
I had the 3.5" rancho A-Arm lift with a 3" body lift. I used 35" grabbers and 36" dick cepek fun countries. The rancho lift has shorter upper a-arms with stock lowers. For some reason the seemed to always rotate teh bolt/nut at the lower a-arm connection to the frame. ??? I don't think I was particularly hard on it. I am the original owner of it and it is in still really good shape. I am as careful as one could be while 4 wheeling.
what size were your tires and were you pretty hard on it and through the alignment out or its something that just happens no madder what
*****
I had the 3.5" rancho A-Arm lift with a 3" body lift. I used 35" grabbers and 36" dick cepek fun countries. The rancho lift has shorter upper a-arms with stock lowers. For some reason the seemed to always rotate teh bolt/nut at the lower a-arm connection to the frame. ??? I don't think I was particularly hard on it. I am the original owner of it and it is in still really good shape. I am as careful as one could be while 4 wheeling.
#56
#58
i plan on keeping the IFS, just for the hell of it. after the 7m swap, i just feel like being a different SOB.
i have this crazy idea to use a mk3 supra IRS rear diff and axles to come up with some kind of longer travel IFS that doesnt put the tires 5 feet past the fenders.
i saw a build on here (i think) where the guy relocated his front diff to the center, directly under the engine. then used longer CV's and either a lift kits A-arms or custom ones. it was a pretty sick kit, had amazing flex.
thatll be a trick for later on tho. basically id just like to have something different.
i have this crazy idea to use a mk3 supra IRS rear diff and axles to come up with some kind of longer travel IFS that doesnt put the tires 5 feet past the fenders.
i saw a build on here (i think) where the guy relocated his front diff to the center, directly under the engine. then used longer CV's and either a lift kits A-arms or custom ones. it was a pretty sick kit, had amazing flex.
thatll be a trick for later on tho. basically id just like to have something different.
#60
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,381
Likes: 100
From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Because I have no need of a solid front axle truck .
Besides I have a low mileage 83 That if I wanted would make a nice off road Toy That I just don`t have the time for.( It needs to be sold)
Yes I do agree if you are hard core a solid Front axle seems to hold up better but I have enough IFS parts to last to the Sun goes Nova and it takes me where I need to go and brings me home.
Besides I have a low mileage 83 That if I wanted would make a nice off road Toy That I just don`t have the time for.( It needs to be sold)
Yes I do agree if you are hard core a solid Front axle seems to hold up better but I have enough IFS parts to last to the Sun goes Nova and it takes me where I need to go and brings me home.
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