Sorry if this has been asked before (I did search). I have '97 4runner V6 Auto with an open rear diff.

Can I take the entire rear axle from a limited (with elocker) and just swap it with my current axle? I know there would be electrical work to do, but otherwise, would it be pretty much a direct swap? I know that the 3rd member housing can be modified to allow for the elocker but I just wanted to swap the whole axle.

Thanks for any help!

 

I should have worded the subject line better... From open to limited (elocker). Wasn't thinking at the time.

 

it can be done and here is how:

http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/elocker/elocker.html

http://carterswebsite.com/4runner/mods/locker/

 

You can go either way. You can swap out the entire axle or retrofit yours to make the e-locker work. Most important question is the gearing the same and do both have abs?

 

I'll have to look into the gearing (it's a stock '97 4x4 sr5) but I assume there may have been multiple gear ratios available. It does have ABS.

 

Thanks for the links! I did see a web page like the first one, but the one you listed is much more informative. I was hoping to just swap the entire axle but now I'm thinking I may be able to do the retrofit.

 

It would come down to cost for me. If the entire axle is close to the same price I would switch the whole thing out it will be a lot less time consuming. I have put a e-locker in a non-locker housing and it can be a little time consuming, and you need to be carefull with tapping the long studs.

 

I can get a entire rear axle from a '99 that has an elocker for a great price. I just don't know how I would go about changing the gears (if necessary) I'm pretty sure mine is a 4.10 right now but even after looking at the pages that describe how to decode the axle number I'm still confused. The only numbers I have are as follows (from the door jam sticker)
C/TR 202/FW45
A/TM A03A/A340F

I did read that all elocker axles are 4.30 but am not sure if that is true

So... my question is, what could I do to make this work?

Thanks for any help!

 

Not all e-lockers are 4.30 mine was 4.10 stock.

 

OK, there goes that theory. LOL. Guess I'll have to try to figure out what ratio the one that's for sale really is... and what mine really is.

 

easiest way to be sure is to pull the third member, count the number of teeth on both the ring gear and divide that by the number of on the pinion gear....there is a way to look at a code if you have the donor vehicles data plate.

 

Nope, not much left of the donor vehicle. I guess I'll be counting teeth.

 

Ok, I got the whole rear end - third member and all. I want to pull the third to inspect / count teeth. I've seen a lot of instructions on how to do this but some say the locker must be locked prior to removal. Right now, I don't have a way to lock or unlock it. So, is it necessary to have it locked to remove the third member?

Thanks for any help!

 

I don't know about your elocker thing. I wouldn't think it would matter because as long as you pull the axles out of the way the third should come out.

Also, since this axle tube+third is sitting in your garage, why don't you just turn the axle and count the revolutions on the drivshaft flange? If you spin the one side and the other side turns in the same direction(ie-"locked" locker) then do one full turn. If the third spins four full turns and a wee bit more your looking at 4.10's. Now, if the axles spin in opposite directions, have somebody hold the other axle or secure with a clamp. Then its still the same "counting."

 

You should probably just pitch that whole project Someone would probably give you what you paid....

 

hmmm.... would that somebody be you? I'm very satisfied with my purchase . I just got the diff lock ecu for $40 from ebay too! Tell ya what though, I might let you help me put it in. LOL

 

I was thinking about that but I wanted to have a look inside anyway to see what condition everything is in.

 

Well... Alldata calls for 8.3 hours to swap the axle! I think making the third fit in your exhisting housing might be easier.

I would almost do without the module, unless it is pretty straightforward. It looks like the module would apply power and ground to move the motor accordingly in either direction (lock/unlock). There is a switch in the motor housing to close a circuit when the motor has moved to let the module know it has completed its task.

So maybe a double pull double throw switch, and your exhisting indicator on the dash?

 

Wow, 8.3 hours! I expected it to take at least that long, but only because I never did it before. I assumed the book time would have been around 4-5 hours. I guess I better plan on 2 days.

All the write-ups I saw called for pulling the axle to mod the housing - so either way the axle has to come out (I believe). I have all the pre-wiring for the ECU and the switch (I would just need to run a six conductor wire from the harness near the rear driver's door to the electronics on the locker.

 

To retrofit the locker into the existing housing you have to pull the axle off. So either way you are pulling the axle and bolting it back on. I would agree that 8hrs is way to long, for somebody who has done it and has shop tools. I have pulled mine off a few times and the axle can be completely off in an hour and probably 2 hrs to put it back on because you have to put fluids in, bleed brakes, bolts don't line up perfectly, ..........