V6 3rd member welding
#1
V6 3rd member welding
I have heard mixed info on welding the V6 3rd member. Some say it can't be done others say it is difficut while I have heard that it is a piece of cake. My many searches didn't bring up any info specific to the V6
So my question is has anyone done this? Any tips? I have welded a few rears over the years with good results. Just wondering before I go to pull the rear out.
So my question is has anyone done this? Any tips? I have welded a few rears over the years with good results. Just wondering before I go to pull the rear out.
#5
The problem with welding a V-6 carrier is that it is a two piece 4-pinion design. This means that you have to unbolt the two halves to weld it. Once you have it apart you will find that it is nearly impossible to weld the side gears to the spider gears and be able to get the case back together.
That said, I have welded up two V-6 rears. I just remove weld the side gears to the case so well that you really can't even tell that they used to be gears. Then ditch the spider gears. and bolt the thing back together with the X shaped cross pin in place to help keep the carrier from shearing apart. This has worked excellant in my '90 Runner with 33's. I've broken plenty of crap in the open front, but not a whimper from the rear in almost half a year.
I am sure that someone will nay-say this method, but if done properly(meaning the carrier is pre-heated, the bearings are kept realitively cool while welding and coated in gear oil before reasembly, and everything is torqued when put back together) I would be willing to bet almost anything that you would break a stock shaft before anything in the diff gives you trouble.
That said, I have welded up two V-6 rears. I just remove weld the side gears to the case so well that you really can't even tell that they used to be gears. Then ditch the spider gears. and bolt the thing back together with the X shaped cross pin in place to help keep the carrier from shearing apart. This has worked excellant in my '90 Runner with 33's. I've broken plenty of crap in the open front, but not a whimper from the rear in almost half a year.
I am sure that someone will nay-say this method, but if done properly(meaning the carrier is pre-heated, the bearings are kept realitively cool while welding and coated in gear oil before reasembly, and everything is torqued when put back together) I would be willing to bet almost anything that you would break a stock shaft before anything in the diff gives you trouble.
#6
We just pulled the 3rd then removed the carrier unbolted it removed the bearing type shims on the spiders and axle gears. The tacked the spiders to the cross while ensuring that it would go back together. Got it all set then welded it up real good. Then put the cross back into the carriet and bloted it up. Then welded the axle gears through the holes in the carrier. Cleaned the carrier real good oiled the bearings installed it back into the 3rd member and reset the backlash and double check the pattern. Put it back in and it has been doing great so far.
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