Upper control arm rubbing on 285 MT/R
10-19-2004, 10:26 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by ASU4runner
I just finished steve's setup with the following:
Front- ARB/OME N91S Firm
'99 Toyota coils (48131-35400 & 48131-35350)
2" Cornbred spacers
I have 285/75/16 Goodyear MT/R's.
On the first test drive with this setup, I noticed rubbing in turns. I saw how close the inner sidewall of the tires was to the upper control arm and determined that to be the source. I have seen the replacement control arm that is narrower in diameter to clear these bigger tires but I can't afford it right now. Does anyone know if it's safe to grind down enough of the upper control arm to prevent rubbing?
Front- ARB/OME N91S Firm
'99 Toyota coils (48131-35400 & 48131-35350)
2" Cornbred spacers
I have 285/75/16 Goodyear MT/R's.
On the first test drive with this setup, I noticed rubbing in turns. I saw how close the inner sidewall of the tires was to the upper control arm and determined that to be the source. I have seen the replacement control arm that is narrower in diameter to clear these bigger tires but I can't afford it right now. Does anyone know if it's safe to grind down enough of the upper control arm to prevent rubbing?
10-20-2004, 03:50 AM
#22
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Anyone elsee wonder if the rubbing is coming from someplace OTHER than the a-arms. 285s shouldn't rub there, but if they did, wouldn't they rub all the time (not just in turns)?
10-20-2004, 04:39 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by RTdawgs
Also, have you got your truck aligned yet? If you have positive camber, this will increase your rubbing. usually when the front end is lifted, it shifts the camber positive. get it aligned to something like -0.3 to -0.5 camber (still within specs) and this should eliminate most of your street rubbing.
Alignment doesn't appear to be off at all as far as left/right pull. The camber/caster may be off though. I have a guy back in my hometown that will do alignments for cheap since he knows my family. I'll keep you posted as to the outcome after an alignment.
10-20-2004, 09:26 AM
#24
I had TC uniball a-arms on my Taco PreRunner and I did have some noise from the uniball clunking, sqeeking and notice there where marks in the hi-mis spacers showing they where being maxed out before the suspension. I ended up returning them and put on the Inland Trux upper arm(and saved $240.). I have never had any ball joints wear out. or grease oosing. At Inland Trucks they said they changed the ball joint angle slightly to keep them from wearing out and to work better with the travel. But the uniballs are stronger I just felt I didn't need them.
10-20-2004, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by BruceTS
As far as I know, nobody has posted about having problems with the UNIBALL and from personal experience; I've been running them for almost a year, considering mine go through a wide variety of conditons mostly at work and they are constantly getting muddy, that plus the fact I work near the ocean so being in the corrosive salty environment would accelerate rusting, none of this has happened, to date they show no signs of any type of wear.
They are far superior to the stock ball joint, that is prone to failure from damage due to over-extention or the boot leaking grease. Considering that there is no maintnance needed for the uniball, that includes lubrication, since it has a Teflon lining. Then the cost to replace a uniball, if it ever does wear out, is cheaper and easier.
If you want to get an expert opinion, contact Donahoe and ask him which is better, here's a quote from one of his post about the stock length A-arms;
BTW I'm currently doing a test, just to see how long they will last, without any kind of maintnance, except washing off the dirt with water. It's my DD and I also use it on our jobsite, so it's driven offroad most every day. Oh, did I say I have had ZERO problems with the uniballs and there has been no issues with rust?
They are far superior to the stock ball joint, that is prone to failure from damage due to over-extention or the boot leaking grease. Considering that there is no maintnance needed for the uniball, that includes lubrication, since it has a Teflon lining. Then the cost to replace a uniball, if it ever does wear out, is cheaper and easier.
If you want to get an expert opinion, contact Donahoe and ask him which is better, here's a quote from one of his post about the stock length A-arms;
BTW I'm currently doing a test, just to see how long they will last, without any kind of maintnance, except washing off the dirt with water. It's my DD and I also use it on our jobsite, so it's driven offroad most every day. Oh, did I say I have had ZERO problems with the uniballs and there has been no issues with rust?
If your going to go extreme go long travel.
10-20-2004, 03:50 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by RaceTaco
Donahoe does not mention is that by putting a ball joint pivot point 2" above stock will change the ball joint inclination angle and this would be a bad thing since you would not be sticking with stock geomentry. The best set up I think for a stocker would be the Inland Trucks upper a-arm( has the most tire clearance )
The Uniball design arms, pivot at the A-arm and not the spindle, the tire won't rub against them at all, they'll come in contact with the spindle first, so saying the Inland arms have more tire clearance is a myth.
10-21-2004, 08:36 AM
#27
Originally Posted by BruceTS
Moving the pivot point higher doesn't affect the inclination angle the way you think and raising the roll center is a positive effect, besides once you lift your vehicle, your changing the stock geometry, the aftermarket A-arms correct the inclination angle.
The Uniball design arms, pivot at the A-arm and not the spindle, the tire won't rub against them at all, they'll come in contact with the spindle first, so saying the Inland arms have more tire clearance is a myth.
The Uniball design arms, pivot at the A-arm and not the spindle, the tire won't rub against them at all, they'll come in contact with the spindle first, so saying the Inland arms have more tire clearance is a myth.
10-21-2004, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Scottz
Isn't the ball joint inclination angle a line drawn from the upper ball joint through the lower ball joint to the center of the tire patch and if you raised or lowered any of those pivot points you would be changing the inclination angle.
Raising or lowering the pivot points have no effect on the steering inclination angle, that is a fixed angle on the factory spindles. The way you measure this is by drawing a line between the upper and lower ball joints and another line center line of the tire. The angle produced is your steering inclination angle, which determines what your scrub radius is.
Last edited by BruceTS; 10-21-2004 at 11:24 AM.
10-21-2004, 11:08 AM
#29
Why not just get some 16x8 wheels w/ a 4.50" backspacing (Like my LX450 Wheels or aftermarket) and you won't rub w/ 285's?
That way, you can get steelies for $250-$300, then sell your OEM wheels and get close to breaking even.
That way, you can get steelies for $250-$300, then sell your OEM wheels and get close to breaking even.
10-21-2004, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Mojo_Risin
Are you sure that's the rubbing you're noticing. You say it is "at turns" that you notice it - to me sounds more like the rubbing on the frame wich I think almost everyone has experienced going to 285's
10-22-2004, 09:54 AM
#31
Originally Posted by ASU4runner
I just finished steve's setup with the following:
Front- ARB/OME N91S Firm
'99 Toyota coils (48131-35400 & 48131-35350)
2" Cornbred spacers
I have 285/75/16 Goodyear MT/R's.
On the first test drive with this setup, I noticed rubbing in turns. I saw how close the inner sidewall of the tires was to the upper control arm and determined that to be the source. I have seen the replacement control arm that is narrower in diameter to clear these bigger tires but I can't afford it right now. Does anyone know if it's safe to grind down enough of the upper control arm to prevent rubbing?
Front- ARB/OME N91S Firm
'99 Toyota coils (48131-35400 & 48131-35350)
2" Cornbred spacers
I have 285/75/16 Goodyear MT/R's.
On the first test drive with this setup, I noticed rubbing in turns. I saw how close the inner sidewall of the tires was to the upper control arm and determined that to be the source. I have seen the replacement control arm that is narrower in diameter to clear these bigger tires but I can't afford it right now. Does anyone know if it's safe to grind down enough of the upper control arm to prevent rubbing?
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