i have a 91 toyota pickup with a 3 in. body lift and 35x12.50x15's. when im in a turn and hit a bump or a rock or something on the trails, the tires scrub and it usually only does it when im turning left? any suggestions on cheap lift or cheap fix but keeping the tires cause i dont haave the money for new tires right now. i got these 35's for free from my buddy cause he felt bad when he saw my old tires on there. haha. kinda sad.

 

get some torsion bars and crank em up, it should give you a few more inches of lift (like 2 at very most) no extra wheel travel but probably enough to clear the 35's

 

Just crank the stock bars, or clearance the ☺☺☺☺ outta the fenders.

 

Clearance the fenders - beat the crap outta the pinchweld at the back of the wheelwell.

The ideal situation is to have a ramp or something to flex out the truck some so you can see where it's rubbing:


(those are 34x9.50 TSL's which measure the same or bigger than most 35's - no lift at all)


http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/ar...2f713fc6fa936b

 

If you're rubbing on the top of the fenders (or even the sides) then cranking up the tbars won't help a bit.
The tire will still travel (upwards) to the same spot as before.
If it's rubbing at the top, when flexed, you have two options:
- More bl (not recommended ).
- Lower the bumpstops some so that the tire can't come up as far.





Fred

 

well its not hitting the top of teh fender wel its hitting the back side and it only scrubs during turns. mainly left turns. i dont thik i have heard it scrub on a right turn before. odd? tires too wide?

 

It could be the tire rubbing on the frame. Because your tire is taller than stock, it will stick out more to the front and back, then when you turn hard, it hits the frame. No steering box I've seen is ever perfectly centered, which explains why one side hits, but not the other. Only fix is different backspacing on your wheels.

 

a BL doesn't necessarily give more tire clearance. You might want to consider an actual lift....

 

its not scrubbing the frame. its scrubbing the back side of the fender.

 

So take your hammer and beat the ☺☺☺☺ out of it till it clears otherwise you can ruin your tires

 

ya i have been thinking about that but im not too sure about it. what about just like a coil spacer or something? blocks in the back?

 

Um - you got it backwards.

IFS lifts don't give more tire clearance, except bracket lifts, which are essentially body lifts, just with the spacer between the suspension and the frame instead of the frame and body.

IFS lifts don't provide for more articulation (except BJ spacers) - the bumpstops are still in the same place.

Body lifts ONLY provide more tire clearance (no more ground clearance or articulation).

 

Stiffer bars do not provide lift. They must be adjusted for lift same as the stock bars. All they do is reduce flex.

While I'm not much of a fan of bracket lifts, we should keep in mind they are easy to mod for more travel.

Frank

 

As mentioned, you've got it backwards.
A bl DOES provide more tire clearance, a suspension lift, not usually.

So many people fail to grasp some pretty simple suspension basics, it's pretty amazing really.
More people should spend time under their vehicle to get an idea on how everything works.

Let's take an example.
You have a vehicle with say 31's and when the tire is full stuffed, it's rubbing the top of the fender, just touching it.
Now what's stopping the upward motion of the tire ??
Most likely it's the bumpstop.
Now throw a 2" suspension lift on it (don't care how, longer coils, a spring spacer, new leafs, etc.).
Now don't change anything else.
When the vehicle is sitting on level ground there is now 2" more space between the top of the tire and the bottom of the fender.
Now stuff the tire as before.
Guess what happens ?
The tire STILL rubs the top of the fender.
Granted it moves up 2" more than before, but it still will get into the top of the fender.
Do you see why ?
The bumpstop hasn't changed so the tire goes up to the same place it did before and thus into the bottom of the fender.
Now how can we prevent this.
One option is to move the top of the fender up higher from where the bumpstop stops the upward movement of the wheel.
The bumpstop is basically on the frame so we need to move the fender (which is the body) further up from the frame.
How do we do this.
A body lift....
The other way to stop the tire from hitting the bottom of the fender is to stop it's upward movement lower.
How do we do this.
Lower the bumpstop such that it stops the upward movement of the tire sooner and thus reduces flex.
A bl can increase flex.

Lets look at it another way, and change tires to a bigger tire.
If with the original setup, the tire was just barely hitting the bottom of the fender, if we go two tire sizes larger, to 35's, let's see what happens.
Now when we stuff a tire it really gets into the bottom of the fender hard. It wants to push the bottom of the fender up 2".
Can you visualize that ?
Now, as before, throw a 2" suspension lift on.
What happens when you stuff the tire ?
It gets into the bottom of the fender really hard as it will still go to the same position as before.
Now, again, we have two options.
We added 2" of suspension lift and really, really,really want to get addition flex with the 35's.
We can lower the bumpstops ca 2" and loose 2" of upward travel, or we can install a 2" bl and now we've gained 2" of upward travel as we don't have to mess with the bumpstops.

Basic suspension 101.




Fred

 

he said hes not rubbin on the top of the fender, but at the rear by the pinch weld...so pound the weld, and trim if necessary....

 

See:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10

This is what you want to do:

 

what is that? i looked at the link and it showed a bunch of lift options and stuff but i didnt see anything about what is shown.

 

The picture and web page show/describe where you trim/hammer that pinch weld inside the fender to help with the rubbing. Also describes other lift options to stop rubbing as well.

 

ok so i beat the weld and pushed the bottom side of the fender up but it still scrubs a little on the pench weld. im pretty sure i could get it to bend more but would it be ok to heat it with a torch or something? im sure i could go another half inch but it would take a while without the heat?

 

Heat is OK, just make sure to remove anything behind the fender/firewall (inside the cab) like the carpet, engine computer, wiring, etc. to protect it from the heat. Folks have also "tubbed" the firewall, cutting out all the projecting metal and filling in with a dished steel plate to fill it back in.