crawler#976

We had the opportunity to do some trail repairs this weekend on an 85 Runner. Thought I'd post up the equipment we used to fix a broken steering J-arm. As with any trail repair, this should be considered a temporary fix and the repaired part replaced before your next trip.

EQUIPMENT

1. Went to my local welding shop and asked for a selection of the most versatile rod they had in a variety of sizes. Ended up w/ 24 rods from 1/8" thru 5/32" dia.

2. A split apart set of 16' x #4 jumper cables for lead and ground.

3. Made up two 24" x #4 cables w/ terminal ends to link up batteries.

4. A #12 picture window lens for eye protection. A set of welding goggles is a good option too...

5. Work gloves.

6. Fire extinguisher.

BATTERIES -YOU MUST MONITOR BATTERY TEMPS TO AVOID BOILING THE ACID AND POSSIBLY CAUSING AN EXPLOSION

BATTERIES MUST BE DISCONNECTED FROM THE VEHICLE WIRING

1. Optima’s or other gel type batteries are the best. Standard plate type batteries heat up much faster.

2. Two batteries hooked up for 24V will usually strike an arc w/ the 1/8" rod. It can be difficult the get a weld started, but once it starts, it'll burn OK. Trimming off the shielding from the rod tip helps get it going.

Three batteries hooked up for 36V will burn a 5/32-rod with ease. Trimming off the shielding from the rod tip helps strike the arc.

HOOKUPS:

For 24V:

Hook up ground cable to battery #1 negative, positive from bat #1 to negative post bat #2, positive bat #2 to welding lead.

For 36V:

Hook up ground cable to battery #1 negative, positive from bat #1 to negative post bat #2, positive from bat #2 to negative post bat #3, positive bat #3 to welding lead.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Works great, have used that trick for years:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Welding

Albuquerque Jim

Steve told me about this experience. For us more visual people, can someone post a pic of exactly how to attach the batteries. This is something that we don't want to get wrong.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

You just connect the batteries in series, so + on one to - on the next, in oder to get the voltage to "add". So for example:

The use attach the first battery "-" teminal to the item to be welded and clamp the welding rod to the "+" terminal of the last battery and have at it. I find 24V is hard to strike an arc on while 36V tends to be a little too "hot" (too much current). So I'll use a cheap set of jumper cable for one of the connections (cheap as in big fat cables that are all insulation with only tiny conductors inside) to limit the current.

MNBOY

I've got a Ready Welder that I carry for trail repair welding, and have luckily only had to use it a couple times. I find that 24v is usually fine with that particular welder, but it is a MIG so the wire is considerably smaller. I've used it with 36v around the garage but they are tough to fine tune sometimes and I have burned through lighter gauge metal. I used to carry a couple rods to use with two batteries and jumper cables, tried it at home to make sure I could work it but never had to use it on the trail. It's a good cheap solution, although I'm pretty sold on the ease of use of the Ready Welder.

Albuquerque Jim

Thanks Roger...

WATRD

Not only does it work great! It's a fun diversion...

http://www.wattora.com/multimedia/fi...trail-weld.wmv

crawler#976

one of the best things about it is the cost.

already had jumper cables $0.0
already had a #12 lens (used) $0.0
already had gloves $0.0
already carry a Fire extinguisher $0.0
welding rod selection $7.50
#4 Cable @ $1.00 per foot = $4.00
4 clamp type battery terminals @ $1.39 ea = $5.56

so, I spent about $18.00 plus tax for the junk required.