Backround-- I have a 96 4runner, it is locked front and rear, tranny and PS cooler, and stock gears, and plenty of lift. I have a DD and body damage means nothing to me, I am looking to take my truck to its absolute limit. the question is should I continue running 33s (im gonna jump to 305s) or 315s. With 35s i will have a larger stance and what not, but a truck with 35s halfway through a trail with a broken CV is not very capable. So, yea, 33s or 35s, and i want to as capable as possible, lets here it.

 

well you will obviously have more ground clearance with the 35s and it will be easier to try and pull up onto an obsticle b/c of the center of the tire being higher up. I dont get what you mean by being stuck on a trail with 35s and a busted shaft. Even if you are on 33s with a busted shaft it is going to suck. invest in some manual hus and when you do bust a cv nothing up front will be spinning. i would go for the 35s

 

i was saying the running 35s with a front locker on stock CVs is pushing it, and I plan on running as hard as stuff as I possible can, making the chance of me busting a shaft real hi, so in some cases running 33s and not busting CVs would be better than 35s and busting them, but then again the size of the 35s would be night and day over the size of the 33s offroad, and man hubs dont worry me, im worried about breaking when im in 4wd anyways...

EDIT: i now see what ur saying about man. hubs, i could just dico that hub if i break, but no $$ for that right now...

 

i see wat your saying but i think you would be okay. plenty of people here are running 35s locked on CVs. I wouldnt worry bout it too much. I too am locked F and R and i raise hell with it and havnt had a problem yet. It would be very wise to save up for some hubs. im not sure what hubs you would use on the 3rd gens, but i think it is around 250 for a rebuiltr pair. talk to nelioconcept and ask him where he got his

 

If you are want to run hard, and not break stuff you might want to consider a SAS and run some longfields. But I guess it really depends on what kind of wheeling you do, and if you have the money to do it right.

 

he has a 96 so he cant use a yota axle. he could however build up a beefy D44 out of a wagoneer

 

i already have the 44 sitting in the ol shed, but the rest of the SACing is atleast a year out, but i plan on wheeling alot between now and then

 

33's locked front/rear will take you anywhere you want to go with a truck you care what the body/glass looks like

When you go 35's with a SAS, you have to be ready for body damage, because the trails that NEED that level of build will induce it.

 

My thoughts are the easier you make it on your machine the better,by that I mean the lower gears with lockers and 35's would allow you to use less skinny pedal to conquer obstacles,where as if you are not regearing stick with the 33's.The thing that makes cv's and birdfields explode are the hoping some allow, and the full locked throttle. I recommend that get gears and lockers first reguardless. All the big tires in the world won't make a difference in the air. Also build for your final prduct in mind so as not to have to redo or replace as much as possible.
hope this helps.

 

I say go with the 35's. You can take advantage of the extra height and climbing ability of the tire and when you put on your SAS you have tires already the right size to put on.

 

im already locked, and i dont care at all about body damage anymore, i have a DD and this is just my trail truck, and it already has a good amount of body damage, but i think im just gonna go with 35s and go easy on the skinny pedal...