I am going to build an IFS with an ARB air locker, once assembled I will remove the stock unit in my truck

if all goes well - how much time do you estimate it will take me to swap the IFS assembled diff into my truck

not including the compressor and air line etc - looking to see how long just to put the front assembly in as a may do it in stages i.e. have the compressor and switches already in the truck etc already

thanks!

 

From pulling the stocker to having the new one in and running?

On the ground, maybe 3 hours.

In the air, under 2.

 

Umm, I'll bet that's after having done it a few times... ...and with air tools


Boston; how much work have you done like this before? I see you have a diff drop, so you know about _those_ two bolts. Have you even had the steering rack off? I think that'll have to come off to get the diff out (versus just pulling the hoses) - and those bolts can be a real pain. You have to pull the diff bolts (where the drop is) to get them out.

Brake lines (so, get ready to plug 'em), CVs, mark the vacuum lines to the front 4WD solenoid...

Do you have air tools or are you doing this by hand?

 

I have air tools

Ive toy'd with cars and trucks a tad - should be all set

thanks for the responses

 

Alllll depends on how much rust... mine took FOREVER.

 

after pulling both front axles for cv rebuild i realized how relatively simple it is. .should only be a few hours as flygtenstein said. re & re on axles can be done w/ in 45 mins...w/ air tools removing the diff shouldnt be that much longer.

i'll be doing the same thing hopefully next week once my 4.88 arb diffs are done...

what are you running for air?

 

get the impact stuff...and an air hammer...Rust never looked so easy.

 

with hand tools it took me about 3.5 to 4 hours. most of that was wrestling the old diff out and getting the new one in position. it's a bitch for sure.

 

You must not have ever had the pleasure of working on a truck that's spent 12 winters in Ohio!

I have stalled out a 1/2 impact gun numerous times, even with multiple PB Blaster applications. When I took out my diff, I couldn't budge the "body mount" bolts and had to undo the bolts that bolt the diff to them!

 

First off, you do not have to remove the steering rack, or deal with brake lines

There are 2 vacuum lines and they can only go one way, they aren't long enough to mix up plus they are held in place by a small metal bracket attached to the diff by 2 bolts.

I might miss something, but here goes.

1. Drain the diff
2. Remove the front wheels
3. Remove the lower ball joint bolts (4 per side)
4. Pull the CV's
5. Remove the front drive shaft, you only have to remove the diff side and push it out of the way
6. Remove the 2 vacuum lines and wire plugs, along with the bracket attached to the vacuum lines (it can hang in place, it doesn't have to be removed from the vehicle)
7. Remove the rear diff mount nut, it's an allen head I think 12 mm
8. Remove the 2 diff drop bolts
9. Rotate the diff towards the front of the vehicle while lifting the rear mount enough to clear the stud, the challenge is getting the drive shaft flange past the bell housing at the same time
10. Reverse the process

This should take someone who is competent at wrenching 3-4 hours with hand tools.

45 mins, w/ air tools...I hope that's for both.

I am down to under 30 mins on the trail, I have seen it done in less that 20

 

Jim, you forgot the skid plates......


I've done it in less than 15 minutes with hand tools only.......

 

for diff replacement, the cv's only have to be pryed out on the diff side..correct? they dont need to be pulled from the spindle side?

and yea 45mins was for both sides w/ air tools...

 

That is correct. Once you pull the 4 bolts securing the lower ball joint, you can just swing the spindle to the side after the axles have been pulled from the diff. The only other recommendation I would make is try to have an extra set of hands with you. That diff is heavy and making the moves Jim is talking about is very awkward with only one person.

 

Thanks Bruce...

Yeah, you break so many axles you should have it down to a science.


Manual Hubs take a little longer.

 

Lies, all lies. I have put at least three of those darn things onto my chest. Getting in is way easier.

The turd is those off size hexes. I want to say 12mm?

The trucks without hubs go easier.

If you can go from driving in, diff out, new diff in, on the ground with air in under two hours, I would be impressed.

 

Not everybody is a lumberjack/philosopher with the strength of two men.

 

 

Lumberjack! I was gonna make that comment too.

I have done mine 3 times. The last time I used a floor jack to assist and it wasn't too bad by myself.

 

don't you mean "Skirt-Wearing Lumberjack/Philosopher with the strength of two men"...

 

We had a customer ask for a hand popping a rear diff in. I told him to get out of the way and watch. It was priceless.

Skirt wearing, exactly.