photoguy2354

OK, so, I personally haven't ever seen a set-up like what i have on this 95 4runner I recently bought. If anyone can explain the purpose behind THREE shocks per side on the front, and the three shocks I have in the middle, only two of them seem to be used for the steering stabilizer. Anyways, I am trying to learn everything I can, so any advice would be welcomed. I want to reduce the number of shocks, it doesn't seem practical and the thing rides rough as heck.


This is how it's set-up along with a wider shot:
. . . . . . . . . . . . .

Then the three shocks where I know the steering stabilizer should be. . . but I don't think there should be 3 shocks here:



The set-up in the rear, it's all been sitting I think, paint's fallin' off, the coil is corroded. . . . gonna need some work I think!

. . . . . . . . .


So. This may be simple stuff, but I don't know about it, and I searched through yotatech all day at work trying to find SOMEONE who had three shocks on one side. . . . didn't see a single one. I'm just trying to learn and understand my yota and what's happening with it, and probably fix some stuff
that wasn't done right or has been left unattended. Thanks in advance guys!

For the record, even if you read ths and are like "it's . . . . . ., dummy" Let me know. I am learning as I go here. Thank you!

E-ROC

can you say "OVERKILL"? one shock per wheel is sufficient for anything up to full blown race vehicles. trash all of those and buy some new ones of your choice/brand and put one on your steering as well if you desire. some people run a steering dampener and some dont. its all personal preference. good common used shocks are, bilstien, rancho, and pro comp.
edit: when you replace the front ones, use the factory mounting locations (where the lower, single shock is). and i would leave the front hoops attached to the frame (given they are properly welded on) in case you ever go to solid axle. just my $.02.

ThatGuy1295

Thats the funniest thing I've ever seen. Bet ya who ever did that has a mullet.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Someone molested your Toyota.

:wabbit2:

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

Perhaps the PO got them on sale at Walmart...Take 'em off and put new ones in stock location and you'll be riding smooth again. I'd definitely put a steering stabilizer on there - I noticed a huge improvement in on-road handling when I upgraded mine to OME.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

The ruff ride is most likely from the waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay over tight torsion bars. Those cv angles are horrible. The lower control arms should be just about level to the ground stock. Loosen up the torsion bars and see how it rides. Just fyi that looks like a 4 inch lift kit on there.

The only reason I could think of for that set up is for jumping the 4runner.

Inu

Looks like its ready for a good ol okie tuff truck event, and whats with the upper link relocaters on the rear axle? anyone seen a kit like that?

photoguy2354

Inu, upper link relocaters???

E-roc, that's EXACTLY what I thought when I saw it; the guy I bought it from said he bought it lifted, so this thing has been on here for awhile.


Vital, it is a 4-inch lift, PLUS a damn 3" body lift. This thing sits way higher than it should. Just no reason for 7 inches of lift on a dang 4runner IMO. I want to pull the 3" body lift off, but I called this off-road shop to see how much it would be to have them do it, as I don't have the skill or resources, and they called it (by how I described it on the phone) a triple-shock mount, and that they see that all the time, and they said depending on the body lift size, that triple shock mount would have to come off too???? I just want my damn 4runner on the road. One thing after another it seems. But it's not a primary vehicle, so I can afford the time of it sitting while I get everything figured out.


Can I use the existing shock mounts and just put one to each wheel? Also, anyone know what that shock behind the two stabilizers is? I need a gearhead friend in Va. I hate it out here. Hopefully be back in Wa. soon enough though. Trying to get this thing in good enough shape to make that trek come Dec. We'll see though!

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

If you want that BL off you might have to cut off those shock hoops up front - they look like they're hitting sheet metal of wheel well. The lower single shock is in stock position whereas the top 2 they've added the hoop and a mounting tab on your upper a-arm. I wouldn't be surprised if the metal around that particular shock mount is fatigued/cracked - a-arm metal is pretty thin at that spot and not really designed for it.

As for your question about the steering stabilizers, the single rear one is the stock location, the 2 front ones have been added/piggybacked onto the system like your front shocks. Can't see in pic how they attach to steering bar, but probably just a pair of u-bolts. Is the other side of those mounted to a bumper/tubed skidplate? That thing may have to go with the BL as well depending on how it's attached up front.

Maybe it's because I'm on my phone, but I don't even see anything bolted between that upper link extension shackle? Tbars are definitely maxed out with lift looking at those angles like Vital22re said - so you've probably got more like 8-9" lift over stock(1-2" tbar lift). Lowering the tbars, removing extra shocks up front should definitely help the ride. Keep in mind that lowering tbars down closer to stock is a lot of adjustment and will most likely throw off your camber afterwards. BL should go to bring your COG down.

What size tires are on this thing? Request Pics from further back.

photoguy2354

285/75/16's I THINK. The guy I just bought it from had crappy road tires, they are going ot need to be replaced soon, but I was planning on waiting for a craigslist deal to come along for some 15" rims and putting 33x12.50's on it along with pulling the body lift off, figure it would be a pretty good combo (4'' susp. lift and 33's). As soon as I get my wheel bearing kits in from WabFab I am going to be replacing the calipers, rotors, brakes, wheel bearings. . . . . Then I can actually drive it (passenger front caliper is bad now) to have a shop look at it in person and tell me what they think should be done.

Before you look any lower. . . . I KNOW it looks stupid with these tires. I didn't do it. Ok, go ahead and look now:




It needs some love. But it'll be worth it once I get everything figured out!

Also, those wheels, yeah they shine up to a nice chromey reflective finish. This thing just wasn't loved the way it should have been, and it sat for a bit, but all the seals are good and it runs well with only 95,xxx on the ODO and I picked it up for 3,800. So, I figure it's worth putting some time and money into getting stuff done right, ya know?

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Nice bracket for the LSPV..

photoguy2354

Ok, so, I have learned technically what T-bars do, which, whatever. I hate technical answers.

So, they go from the frame to the control arm.... I rotate the adjuster bolt, it moves the torsion bar up/down? Then I gotta get the alignment done again. That's the general verdict of my googling. What will that do though? How does that have an effect on ride quality and just WHAT am I doing to my 4runner by loosening tightening these things????? I feel so lost and confused. I hate not already knowing this stuff. ha.


update: I just read something comparing hte anti-sway bar in the back to the torsion bars, same concept? Keeps the tires/assembly area from moving back and forth and all over hell????

photoguy2354

uh, thanks? Or is that yet another problem I have yet to discover? ha.


another fun update to my searching quest. . . . if you wanna search for something on yotatech, and go to the EXACT page within the 109(for example) page post of what you are searching for, type in the search, then type in just like this "site:yotatech.com" it'll search only yotatech and brings the links up to the exact page, rather than only searching by threads and having to pur through pages within threads.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

yes, torsion bars work "similar" to anti-sway bars. since the t-bars are attached to the a-arms, which pivot, the t-bar's job is to give resistance by "twisting". adjusting the t-bar adjustment bolts will change where the "preload" is at. as the wheel travels up, the t-bars give more resistance as it twists further. since yours are maxed out, they are most likely very stiff since they're "already twisted" just trying to keep your rig that high up all the time.

as for how t-bar adjustment affects your camber - since the a-arms rotate in an ARC-shaped curve and the camber will change as the wheel travels up/down. your camber is set according to the position of the a-arms in that imaginary curve/arc at ride height....so if your camber is set at the lower part of that curve/arc (closer to ground/lifted rig), most likely your camber will be / \ when you change the settings to lower the rig and set the a-arms are closer to the top end of the arc (or closer to flat). i think wikipedia has some good diagrams of suspensions and i'm sure there are animations on youtube to see how t-bar susp works.

from the pic, looks like you have 31" tires/ 265/75/16. a 285/75/16 IS a 33" tire - most are slightly larger diameter than the 15" wheel equivalents, but are narrower @ 285mm (11.5"-ish) across the tread. sounds like a win/win for height gains and fitment issues until you see the jump in price going with tires for 16" wheels

Inu

this relocater.. which appears empty anyway?
Clean runner, shame all the work its gonna be to ditch the BL, what about a draive train lift to give a flat belly and tires to match?

ThatGuy1295

Could it be your wasting your time trying to research an idea that someone came up with while high on meth? Instead of just tearing that BS off there.

If you can't find it then its stupid and dum and know one thinks its a good idea. Thats how the internet works.

photoguy2354

Well, I also wasted time researching an idea produced via meth, but, that's because I am stuck at work all day.

The irony here is that I got RID of a truck for THIS thing because it would have been too much work to get up to par. I guess the trade off is that was engine seals. And I stress sealSSSSS, everything was leaking on that truck, but it ran damn good; I just had to keep track of my oil MPG

Well. If there is ANYONE in the Va. area that knows this stuff well and would like to come walk the truck over and give me their final opinion of what all would need to be done for achieving my goal of removing the body lift..... lemme know. I'll buy ya a six-pack of your choice, so long as it isn't corona


Oh, also, highonpottery, I was correct in my guess, I checked them yesterday on the way into the house from work.........they ARE 285's. They just look so damn small because Backwoods Bill and his gang wanted to jump skyscrapers with this thing.

ThatGuy1295

Well when it comes to the front end, id definitely tear those upper shocks out at least for now. I promise you won't regret it.

photoguy2354

Can I just pull them out?


Also, I am looking at what all it takes to do an SAS. Perhaps something I could make a few month-project, but I don't know what all it entails.

ThatGuy1295

The shocks? Ya. Their not supporting anything. And the shock hoop can go to unless you plan on sas'n in the future. And that will make removing the BL possible to.