im lookin into puttin a pro comp 4" suspension lift on my 1990 yoter. pro comp recommends 33x11.50 tires and im just wondrin if it would be possible to squeeze in some 35x12.50's instead. any advice? oh and also would the stock 4.56 gear ratio be able to tolerate tires of that size? cuz its already got 32x11.50s and they handle real nice

i have also looked into what downey has to offer with their lift and their single axle swap. is the SAS really worth the $$$ compared to lifting with just the IFS?

 

so is it the 3.0 automatic?

ok. well as far as the SAS, solid axle swap, goes. what do you intend to do with your truck? is it a dd with some light trail use? rock crawling extraordinaire? SAS, is usually pretty far down the road in this hobby. from my experience, push your truck to the limit with IFS, and if its not enough, swap. but get ready to empty your wallet regardless.

 

How much do you take the truck offroad?

If you do, what kind of 4wheeling do you like to do?

You should be able to fit 35's, especially if you don't flex the suspension much. A small body lift would address what rubbing there might be. 4.56's are gonna SUCK with 35's. You need 5.29's or 5.71's.

35's is getting to the limit for the steering on these trucks, some people do OK, others have tons of problems.

If you 'wheel a lot, you should consider a SAS as it can be built stronger than the IFS (NOTE: stock vs stock they are about the same! If you're SAS'ing for strength, be sure to factor the upgraded steering and axles into your cost!)

 

nah its the 3.0 5spd. im plannin on it being truck that i just drive around locally but i wanna be able to get through anything that gets in my way ya kno? haha. the thing is that it was my cousins and they put it through hell and it was just stock. its goin through alot of repair now. he was drivin down the interstate and the driveshaft fell out if that tells ya anythin hahahaha. so here i am with this thing and its my dream come true. it hasnt been driven regularly in about 2-3 years so its gonna be a long process...

 

You will be able to fit 35's. I doubt there will be much rubbing, if any.

 

Good luck bringing her back to life!

You'll want 5.29's with that 5 speed and 35's.

Now if you are going to really tackle anything in your way well, you do want to consider the solid axle over the bracket lift. However, if you want to keep the truck nice but capable and aren't doing to do a lot of rock wheeling, you can have some fun with the bracket style kits. Just be advised they tend to shift around requiring frequent alignments if wheeled.

Something to ponder, gears and lockers make for a capable rig. Lift does not. If you search a bit you'll find people fitting the narrower larger tires with little lift. This is actually quite a bit more reliable and less tippy. Just somethin' to consider.

Have fun!

Frank

 

well hey thanks for ur advice alot... honestly im gonna avoid the rocks. im fine with replacing anything BUT body panels hahaha. i dont wanna come home with a raisin. so im gonna stick with mud and climbin trails in the mountains of good ole tennessee

im plannin on puttin in a centerforce dual friction clutch kit (just came in today yay!!!) and a centerforce flywheel and all that other good clutch stuff after which will come another tranny and tcase from a graveyard in vonore.

after that comes the lift stuff and then the lockers and tires and rims lol... but tell me somethin, can i get lockers and gears separately or do i have to get one of those 3rd member kits with the locker and gears? what are those 3rd member things anyway?

and another question (sorry so many) is it necessary to put a locker in the front or just one in the back? or both?

 

Necessary? No. Awesome? Yes.

 

yeah thats what i figured... front and rear it is then hahaha. oh wait... i coulda sworn i put that 3 grand somewhere... oh wait i was just dreamin. nevermind

 

If you're concerned about body work, spend money on armor, not lift...

 

another cheaper option is - 2-3" body lift,1.5" BJ spacers and longer shackles/different rear springs - should be close to clearing 35's - also with a body lift you can do a drivetrain lift - just my $0.02

 

you wouldn't need the susp lift with the body lift. 3" bL would clear them easy, 2" may have some rubbing, but unlikely.

 

well iv read up some other posts on this site and most people say that by doing a suspension lift you raise your center of gravity and a body lift is better because it does not. is this true? because from some of my own research i have found it would be better to do a suspension lift. it seems that a body lift would make your vehicle taller and therefore increasing your chances of flipping. gimme some input on this yo

 

Both make your truck taller. A suspension lift raises EVERYTHING: frame, engine, all of it. The body lift only raises the body, which is MUCH lighter. So both raise your COG, but the BL does so by a much smaller amount.

 

oh ok i see. i think im gonna go with the suspension lift tho. pro comps stage two lift looks pretty good to me. ALOT better than what anyone else is offering. if i have problems with clearance and tire rub i'll throw in the ball joint spacers on the front cuz the back no doubt will clear them tires. is there a type of spacer to make room for wider tires? like an offset wheel or something with a similar effect that doesnt look retarded? or would it be just fine with 12.5 wide tires?

 

do you say it looks better because of price? in 4wheeling you get what you pay for. wheel spacers are available.

 

That lift should clear fine.

Keep in mind that the farther you space the tire out, the more it will rub when turning, on the inner fender. 4 inch back spacing is pretty good, and should keep the tire from rubbing inside on the frame.

However, if it were me, I'd try them on the wheels you have, and then purchase new wheels if your current ones don't fit. That way you can take measurements of anything rubbing, and get specific advice that will help you more than general guesses now.

 

Note that the more you try to prevent rubbing on the frame, the much more likely you are to rub the fenders.

Fenders rip off, frames don't - much better to rub the frame than the fenders.

 

well im kinda concerned about the body but not much... a door needs replaced anyway cuz of some bad rust and sucky bondo-n' under the paint. id just rather stay away from rock climbin and get a jeep one day for that hahaha. id rather tear up a wrangler than a yota.

i meant the procomp stage 2 lift looks good as in it has pretty good components as compared to some other susp lifts iv seen. sorry for the misinterpretation i guess my southern accent is messin with my typing oh gah.

the reason i was talkin about some offset rims and wheel spacers lookin retarded is cuz of some of the wierdos around here who lower their silverados and other full size trucks and put those gay wheels n tires that stick out a half mile from the freakin body. does that get on anyone elses nerves?

 

I would suggest Superlift if you are set on a 4" kit. They have one-piece bracketry.

Check out here for 33's on a truck with no body lift, just a small suspension lift.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ce-etc-136418/


Frank