Ah gotcha, it might be trial and error then. No biggie

 

i think in this case t&e's the call, im going to grind and weld some strips tomarrow. welds are worn. however SQUARE TUBE JUST WONT BREAK. thats a nice thing to think about

 

So I just got the material for mine! It cost me $40. I needed 16 inches of both receiver hitch tubing and of 2'' inch .250 wall. The place wouldnt sell me just that so I had to buy 2 feet of each! But at least i have a little extra receiver for when i buil my bumper. My question now is how much of the inner tube do you guys have exposed at ride height?

 

This is what I used, reply #20: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index...1908#msg381908

 

really depends on your lift and situation, mine has about 10" inner, 15" outer.

 

THanks for letting me hi jack your thread! Here is my finished drive shaft. I chose to use just Ujoints on both ends due to my pinion angle. I still need to drill both my flanges but hopefully that will be done tomorrow.

 

I am gonna try a cut rear on my front and flex it with the fork lift to take measurements with the Passenger side stuffed and measurements at ride height then at full droop on Passenger front and see if i can't get it to work. If the slip isn't long enough then Square shaft here I come.

 

What quality and thickness of steel did you use or should I use?

 

For the outer tube use 2.5''X2.5''X.250 wall Flashout. (it is seamless. also known as hitch receiver tube.) For the inner tube use 2''X2''X.250 wall

 

looks good buddy, only thing id recommend if you havent done yet is drilling a zerk for the slip

 

also some info i found out for others, if you want to do a double cardan joint on yours early tacomas rear shaft has the best flex and are strong. i got mine off the front shaft of a 90's 4runner, (no tacos at my junk yard).

 

Old thread but how did this work out with no cv? I have 3'' springs and dont want to run a cv...any binding?

 

i have a cv (constant velocity,double cardon) on the square shaft, i also have dual cases and a high pinion front diff so the angles are really good. i think, could be wrong, that you can run higher angles with out cv. the cv just helps with vibrations really, and i think maybe a bit stronger. before the duals and high pinion i was having really bad vibes and went through ujoints like crazy

with a 3" lift i dont think you will have any major issues, maybe vibes but binding no

 

subscribed. nice idea

 

I havent had any binding issues yet but I haven't done any crazy trails yet.

 

I run a square shaft with 4" springs and no CV. Works perfect! One less joint to replace when they wear out.

 

With low pinion and stock case the angle looks like it will be to much, but I'm gonna try it.

Would the angle be more with dual cases?

 

volcom is right, i really do wish i would not have put cv up there, they are not fun to replace - and more moving parts. as far as lift with not duals and low pinion when i had this i had a conversion 1310(gm i think) to toyota ujoint. that was a VERY stupid thing to do. with reg toyota joints you WILL have vibrations over 15 mph but will be pretty strong even to its limit.

DONT HAVE CONVERSION JOINTS, lame

 

Ive seen this done a couple times, and it usually gets you around 20mph more out of your front shaft when in 4wd.
The cons are: It makes its a real snug fit for sure, and creates a bit more friction. Also the grease likes to get shaved off when putting the 2 shafts together.
Best idea is to drill and tap zerk fittings into the shaft so you dont have to pull it apart to grease it. If you wheel hard, you can pull the zerks out to protect them, and only install for greaseing.