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square tube d shaft slip joint
got a sqare tube built recently and it works great, but i kind of want to make the slip better. was wondering if anyone has done anything with that?
im thinking of putting welds on the corners and grinding down untill its tight. this a good move or should i just leave it alone? |
Put tacks on the outside of the inside tube on all four sides the length of slip then grind down to fit. It's crude but it works if you take your time and get it right.
:wabbit2: |
thats kind of what i was thinking. will i have any problem with heat bending the tube, or just put one tack at a time to keep that from happening? (i know its .25 but dont want to make the tube all squirrely)
thanks for the confirmation that im on the right track. |
well i went for it. took a hour or so, kind of crummy weld job, but i think it will work good.
https://www.yotatech.com/members/hum...0-img-7187.jpg |
Just curious....why would you want to make the slip tighter? I am planning on building one of these soon. So any ideas are great.
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well i got it up to 45-50 mph and it had some vibs but worked good so...no reason. buuut i wanted to improve upon it. figured with the slop the shaft wasnt a strait line, so making it tighter could also be easer on the ujoints. also noise should be improved although that wasnt a big deal
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ok that makes total sense. Thanks
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so after testing the new set up i would say it was a great idea. it doesnt bind up at all, almost no noise and i took it on the street w/ hubs locked/out of 4x4 to 50 mph and vibes felt about as bad as an out of balance wheel. it just works better.
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whats the advantage of haveing a square drive shaft?
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^its cheaper than having one made and balanced for just a front
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^And more slip(than a stock front driveshaft).
Here was my problem: there was not enough slip in the driveshaft to handle the added flex created by my homemade leaf packs and longer shackles. There would be about 1-3/4" of travel left to pull the shaft apart on the RTI ramp, yet on the trail, due to various issues such as axle wrap, and unexpected articulation, the shaft would pull apart. http://infohost.nmt.edu/~jscarbro/100_0308.JPG The solution: Make a SQUARE DRIVESHAFT I decided to make a square driveshaft for my 1983 Toyota PU. Why?...you may ask. I did this for the following 5 reasons: 1. To get more "slip" (travel before the driveshaft comes apart). 2. It is strong. 3. It is easy to make and fix. 4. It is CHEAP!!! 5. It is EXTREMELY CHEAP!!!!! I needed a long travel driveshaft. Normally these long travel driveshafts cost between $200-$300. A square driveshaft can cost as little as $10 or $20....sounds good to me! Though some people look at a square driveshaft, and think..."How ghetto," there are several advantages, which I listed above, when it comes to square driveshafts. Slip (travel) This was my main reason for making a new driveshaft. With my regular travel splined driveshaft, I had room for about 1-3/4" compression, and 3 inches of extension allowable in the splines before they would pull apart. With the square driveshaft, I made it so that there was about 3" compression, and 8" extension in the shaft before it would pull apart. These are all from the position of the shaft at rest. I am 100% positive I would never pull apart this shaft on the trail unless my axle fell off! Strength The square driveshaft is very strong. Though cylinders are ideal for torsional loads, the square tubing is still very strong, and the odds of the tube shearing or the corners being rounded off (by each other) is very unlikely. The upper tube is "receiver hitch" tube. It is approximately 2.5" OD with a .25" wall thickness. The bottom tube is 2" OD tube with a 3/16" wall (because that is what I had). That piece would be the only piece that I would worry about. The fact that the bottom tube extends so far up into the top tube adds a lot of strength to the overall assembly, and lessens the likelihood of smashing the upper tube at least. CHEAP!!! This shaft is very cheap, because you should already have the parts, except for the tubing. The tubing should cost no more than $20. Zerk fittings are $5. Total: $25 Can't beat that! Ease of Construction The square driveshaft is very easy to make, and can be done in a few hours... |
Originally Posted by humboldtMUD
(Post 51672134)
well i went for it. took a hour or so, kind of crummy weld job, but i think it will work good.
https://www.yotatech.com/members/hum...0-img-7187.jpg Interesting idea. I may just try this. |
Originally Posted by BigBluePile
(Post 51698966)
Interesting idea. I may just try this.
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hmmm makes a lot of since, after i lift mine i just may do this and try it out
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Originally Posted by Volcom
(Post 51699000)
I tried welding some fat beads and grinding they down on my front shaft before my Moab trip. It was quieter the first day and after that, it was back to noise :laugh: Oh well, worth a shot. Since I put a twin stick in, I've been using 2wd low alot and the front DS makes a ton of noise with no power from the t-cases and just being spun by the front axle and locker. You get used to it on the trail though.
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i have to say, it was well worth the hour or so it took me to weld/grind the edges. it just works better with a tight slip
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my solution was a thin strip of metal welded front and back to the whole length of the slip on all sides to make a nice tight fit. Mine has been up to 40 with hubs locked and i get no noticeable vibes. Elminated almost all slop i had when i first made the shaft
http://i51.tinypic.com/15yx378.jpg |
thats a really good idea, wish i would have thought of that
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Originally Posted by lazlow
(Post 51699932)
my solution was a thin strip of metal welded front and back to the whole length of the slip on all sides to make a nice tight fit. Mine has been up to 40 with hubs locked and i get no noticeable vibes. Elminated almost all slop i had when i first made the shaft
http://i51.tinypic.com/15yx378.jpg |
Originally Posted by BigBluePile
(Post 51700543)
That's actually what I was thinking about doing. How thick was the shim? .030, .040"?
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