hi everyone.

right now I own a 1990 4runner. Its mainly a grocery getter.

I am looking for another 4runner or pickup that I can lift, modify, and beat on for offroading and camping.

my question is: I know the '85 was the last solid axle year and the first fuel injected year.....but they cost a few thousand more than an 87 or 88. Im planning on running 33" max tires. Is a solid axle really worth the extra money?

thanks in advance!

 

If those are your plans then I say go with an IFS truck if they're cheaper wher you live. Throw a locker in the rear, trim the fenders, and stick some 32" or 33" M/Ts on it and it'll handle just about any "intermediate" trail out there. Just my $0.02, but it's also what I've done with my '88.

 

Checkout the moab thread in the trip planning forum. If you plan to do harder trails than those guys are doing, then you need a solid axle. If you're doing easier stuff than that, no you don't need a solid axle.

Based on what you've said so far, no you don't need one.

 

I did my SAS , because i got tired of replacing broken parts from small weekend wheeling trips, since i have installed my SAS , I love it and its worth every dollar...>!

 

couldnt you just goto a pull-a-part and get a solid axle and throw it on? Just like you can with the 86 rear end? I dunno about IFS but it seems you could do that.

 

nope, you have to do a bit of work. needs spring/shackle hangers welded up front, new steering(except the box), driveshaft, probably gears to match etc

 

Oh i thought it would be just like swapping out a rear axle, guess not.

 

Terky, you have to look at the two suspensions. It's utterly impossible to put a solid axle in with the IFS bits. You have to torch off the old suspension and mounts completely, then add new hangars and shackle mounts for the leaf springs (beefing the frame at those points in the process,) then change the steering around (good time to do the HySteer.) Not too complex really, but a hell of a lot of work, work that has to be done well if safety matters to you... Replacing a rear axle is simply unbolt the old and bolt in the new one, you aren't changing anything. See?

 

My sentiments exactly, I have been very impressed with what our poor little IFS rigs can do. But it all depends on where and how you drive it.

 

well im up in BC canada, so no big rock/desert trails....just lots of forest roads with washouts and trenches dug across them to try and keep people out.

in regards to what Breezey said, do IFS parts break easier? or is that just because people push em past there limits?

 

The IFS is fine for 33" tires and down. If you aren't running a front locker, you're very unlikely to break anything. As far as weak points, there's one, put a brace on the idler arm from Downey Off Road.(like 45$) The IFS is actually very maintenance free and you are less likely to break a CV than you are a Birfield in a solid axle. The springs and teering components are up out of the way and plenty stout.(aside from needing the ilder brace) The stock solid axle has a J-arm for steering and it is notorious for bending. It is unbraceable too, you have to switch to cross over steering. However, you can easily upgrade a solid axle to be way stronger than the IFS. (Longfields, Hi-steer) That, and the much increased slow speed flex, is why the solid axle is best for hardercore stuff. Even if you decided to swap out for a solid axle someday, you'd still need the IFS steering box which you'll already have.

I have found one rather usefull rule for figuring if you need a solid axle. Are you ready for body damage? If so, you are probably on trails where you need a solid axle. If not, IFS will work just fine. Since you don't have lots of rocks, you are most likely well within IFS wheeling limits. That is good because you can get a newer truck and stand a better chance of finding one with more options of your liking.

Nice thing with the Toy though, down the road if you change your mind, you can swap a solid in.

Frank

 

Does anyone know if the 4th gen needs an idler arm brace and does the 3rd gen brace that Frank mentioned fit?
Thanks

 

Rack and pinion steering doesn't have an idler arm so 3rd and 4th gens don't need it. Frank is talking about the idler arm of the 1st and 2nd gens.

 

minimum cost on doing a quality locked up SAS (easily over 4K) is gonna be more than investing in a good IFS lift- and for fire roading, IFS is fine.

 

I made a comment on another board, that if your not planning on running tires larger than 35's then doing a SAS is not needed. I've been able to go all the places a SAS'ed rig on 35's have. The biggest difference is in height, most SAS'ed rigs are lifted, mostly to clear the front diff under the engine, much higher than I want my rig to be.

 

Get a locker and don't be a fool who got on the solid axle pony before having a wheelable rig.

You don't need it, especially if you are a stock grocery getter. Get a locker, get some seat time and then check again.

 

Exactly. Lockers are the best "bang" for your buck (literally ) when it comes to off road driving.

When the time comes for a solid axle you will know.

 

I slam allot of rocks with my IFS and my alignment shop is tired of dealing with me. Right now my stearing is at 15 degrees and my rig pulls to the left. I believe I bent my left lower control arm. With my IFS if I can get the IFS over the rocks my rear does not toutch. This can be good for the back half of my rig. I'm tinnking of cranking up my tourshen bars and having longet rear spring made. I know I'll have top fix the rest of the moving parts to do this. But I like my IFS and I'm just not ready to to a SAS yet. (My oppinion) Take it out and beat the He## out or the IFS then do a SAS if needed. This is what I'm doing. It just sucks when the jeeps are doing the same trails and not hitting the rocks that I hit :pat: