Take measurements beforehand so you'll know where the new ones go rotated on the axle. Mark where the old ones were as you clean things up and then tack in place and check. Obviously, I cut the old ones off and rotated the rear axle and welded on new perches. Not that much work really.

Never messed with shims so I have no experiential opinion on them.

 

i came across this article http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveshaft/
and i became alittle concerned that rotating the axle wont solve my vibration problem. can anyone give their opinion so i dont waste my time cutting and rewelding it twice?

 

opinions needed....

 

Measure twice, cut once

Or use bolt-in shims and get the angle correct and then cut/weld the perch if desired to match that angle.

Shimming a CV shaft is tricky as you are changing both the pinion angle and the shaft angle at the same time:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml#FAQ1

 

im asking if it wont cure my vibrations like the link suggests.

-derek

 

If the vibrations you are having are due to mis-alignment of the driveshaft/pinion angle and you can restore it to a proper setting by changing that angle, then yes, that will fix the vibrations. I think if you read that article on the 2-piece shaft, the main issue was a worn out center support bearing and the owner (who I worked with regarding the shims) decided it would cost as much to replace the CSB or replace the driveshaft with a 1-piece unit and eliminate the wear-prone CSB. He did still need to shim the shaft to convert to the 1-piece design.

 

oh ok. thank you very much.

-derek

 

I installed All-Poo adjustable upper control arms on my 4runner today to help with my driveline vibrations. I have about 4 inches of lift in the back with a high angle CV driveline. I still need to measure the angles..today I eyeballed it..



Old angle..



New angle..

 

so i went at it this weekend, and it took tons longer than i had expected, as usual.

longest thing was probably grinding off the old welds since the welding hardens the metal.
steps:

-remove brake lines
-cut off old perches however you choose (i did my first one with recip saw and cutoff wheels, and second with my new plasma, plasma was tons easier but i couldnt figure it out earlier.)
-mark where old perches were
-grind housing smooth
-place new perches on
-measure left and right distances from similar hub surfaces and make same on each side
-line up driveshaft and pinion in straight line with magnetic angle finder on it
-lower 1-2* whatever you think is best
-measure left and right again and adjust if needed
-tack weld new perches
-full weld new perches
-paint and mount ubolts and brake stuff back on
-bleed brakes
-done

thats the long and short of it.
things i would do differently:
-take wheels off so i could have more space
-not let my mig run out of gas
-check over welds because i forgot to weld about an inch on one perch which ill stick weld later

most importantly:
its a pain, but take your time.
this is a critical part of your truck and while i drove 75mph back to school last night for 250 miles i was thanking myself that i did, because luckily the vibrations were gone.

-derek

 

 

didnt take pics. sorry, but the pics above do it some justice

 

Mmmmm, couple of things.
In the first photo it appears that you have a lot of thread exposed on that upper adjustable arm. Make *real* sure that there is still enough thread engaged such that the end can't just simply strip out.

Also, it appears that there is no jamb nut on the frame end of the arm.

First time that I've seen the All-Pro arms. Kinda disappointed in the heims.

Were it me, I would measure the width that the heims have to install in (the width of the mounting bracket) and see if I could get a set of JJ's to fit.



Fred

 

I am kinda dissapointed in them too. I am having a hard time adjusting them correctly. I actually put my stock driveline back on today to check if the vibrations I am dealing with in the back would go away.

I will take the CV driveline in to be rebalanced.

The jam nut is back on now...just had it off to measure the threads.

I think I will need some help getting the angles right. I have read 4crawlers info and still cant seem to get things right.

What are JJ's??

 

I had the downey arms on my 95 when it had rear coils. They were great for 3" of lift, even on 4" they were fine, barely.. I actually had a CV shaft made. The part I didnt like was that the heims wear out really really quickly. Less than 30K miles (downey actually told me I got more miles than most), and I dont like in the sand or salt belt. Yes dusty wheeling but many of my miles were hwy. Downey didnt sell just the heim, and they were really expensive for just the heim. I am not sure about allpro but the downeys werent rhand lhand thread, so you had to remove them to change the leangth. This was one of the many contributing factors in my leaf swap.

 

JJ's are Johnny Joints, a enclosed (greaseable) cartridge joint made by Currie.
I ran them in all of the control arms on my Jeep for about 3 1/2" years and they were still fine.
The problem with the heims in not the strength but the durability, or lack of it that is.

As for the angles, you want all of the angle to be carried by the CV joint in the rear driveshaft, which is at the xfer case end.
So this means that you want the driveshaft angle to be the same as the rear diff output angle.
You'll need and angle finder.
Here's a link that'll show you, exactly, what you need to do.
Note that you should use a socket, as shown, to measure the pinion angle.

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/pinion/pinion-1.htm




Fred