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rear springs up front

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Old 03-19-2004, 11:14 AM
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rear springs up front

I'm in the process of swapping my rear springs up front. Waiting on the Hy-steer to come in the mail. So that will be done at the same time. I hope to get around a 4 inch lift out of the swap. Along with the front axle being moved around 3 inches foward. My question is: With that kind of lift, and the flexy springs, will the stock length splines on the driveshaft be enough? Or, will I have problems with it seperating? Also, in the near future, I'll be adding another T-case. And I really don't want to pay to have it lengthened twice.
Old 03-19-2004, 04:56 PM
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yup, your shaft will be coming appart on you. Instead of paying somebody else to lengthen it for you, i suggest just going the cheap route and building a square shaft. Simple, easy, cheap. And if you get lucky, it wont vibrate to bad.
Old 03-19-2004, 06:35 PM
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Thought about that. But I'm building this as a daily driver/trail tamer. So, I aint too crazy about that idea. I figure the longer splines will do the trick. But I thought there might be another trick.
Old 03-21-2004, 06:52 AM
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I've been on so many boards with this exact same topic. I'm playing around with the lift idea, and it starts to really get under your skin. Whne you lift, it's not just a lift with SFA Toys it's the little stuff like driveshafts that get in your way. Most everyone suggest the square DS but you seem like me where this has to be your D/D and you can't afford to "maybe" not have vibrations and it "might hold up at speeds over 50mph, I just can't have that "what if" on my back. It''' just be better in the long run to get a slip shaft fromm Marlin or All Pro and have a shop build it for you, unless you really want alot of slip then you'll wanna go with High Angle Driveline, or Tom Woods Drive Shafts. Either company will be around 200-350 for a simple one, and price goes on up as the features like more CV angle, or more slip.

Good luck, hope you can find what you want, and if you find a more economical way, post it here and let me know.
Old 03-21-2004, 08:18 AM
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the square shaft won't bother you on the road if you leave your hubs unlocked

i don't like the idea of it eating the bearings in my t-case and front diff when making those bombing runs in 4hi though...i'm probably gonna find some long travel front solution and have my stock front shaft lenghtened and put in it rear(going to dual cases)
Old 03-21-2004, 10:18 AM
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There is no need to drive on the road at high speeds in 4-Hi. Or with your hubs locked for that matter. I still suggest going with the square shaft, even it you only do it until you get your dual cases installed. Then go out and spend your cash on a nice long travel HAD. No point in spending to much money twice.

Most everyone suggest the square DS but you seem like me where this has to be your D/D and you can't afford to "maybe" not have vibrations and it "might hold up at speeds over 50mph, I just can't have that "what if" on my back.
If you are in conditions on the road that are bad enough that you need 4wd you should not be going 50MPH. Period. And if you read your owners manual, you will note that it says not to exceed 50 mph in 4 HI. At least mine does.
Old 03-21-2004, 02:01 PM
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I'm still not used to having manual locking hubs, I forgot that the shaft only turns in 4hi or when hubs are locked. Sorry that just voids my whole rant up there.

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Old 03-21-2004, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Stump1883
Whne you lift, it's not just a lift with SFA Toys it's the little stuff like driveshafts that get in your way.
apparently you have never helped anyone try to lift a jeep, talk about ripple effect across the vehicle.
Old 03-21-2004, 07:24 PM
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I know, Jeeps are crazy. When my friend was looking into doing a SOA on his Jeep YJ he and I did alot of research and it jsut got to be way to much. He just ditched the YJ all together and bought himself a Rubicon, now he wants to lift that, so starts new research. I had never even heard of a slip yoke eliminator until then, that's why it's great to drive a Toy, Heeps and other domestics really drive home that fact.
Old 03-21-2004, 09:51 PM
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Kinda funny you mention the snowball effect and Jeeps. My brother just wanted a different spring set up in his CJ5. Now, 6 months later, the frame is streched, complete susp, bobbed tub, hy-steer, and other stuff. Think he got a little mad when last time we went out, my stock 84 longbed done everything his Heep done.

Napoleon; I think my Motley crew is planning on going to Tuttle Creek on Memorial Day weekend. Should be fun. Everyone will be testing thier new toys. You should come!!!

Last edited by roktoy84; 03-22-2004 at 09:03 AM.
Old 03-23-2004, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by joez
There is no need to drive on the road at high speeds in 4-Hi. Or with your hubs locked for that matter. I still suggest going with the square shaft, even it you only do it until you get your dual cases installed. Then go out and spend your cash on a nice long travel HAD. No point in spending to much money twice.
If you are in conditions on the road that are bad enough that you need 4wd you should not be going 50MPH. Period. And if you read your owners manual, you will note that it says not to exceed 50 mph in 4 HI. At least mine does.
I prefer to have my front drivetrain capable of running as fast as possible. Agreed that if you need 4WD due to low traction conditions, you should not be going that fast, but there are other situations where you do need it.

Trash your rear driveshaft on the Rubicon and have the need to drive home in FWD for nearly 5 hours, assuming you can run the speed limit. Or drive on the highway in variable conditions, from clear and dry for miles to snow/ice covered for short stretches. Just leave the front hubs locked and shift in and out of 4WD as conditions warrant.

That said, I run a rebuilt front solid axle CV shaft up front, modified with a long travel Spicer slip yoke (officially its 4" slip, but it'll pull out to about 7-8" before separating). Rear springs up front:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...II.shtml#Front

Minimal lift with my spring pack but loads of travel.
Old 03-23-2004, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 4Crawler
I prefer to have my front drivetrain capable of running as fast as possible. Agreed that if you need 4WD due to low traction conditions, you should not be going that fast, but there are other situations where you do need it.

Trash your rear driveshaft on the Rubicon and have the need to drive home in FWD for nearly 5 hours, assuming you can run the speed limit. Or drive on the highway in variable conditions, from clear and dry for miles to snow/ice covered for short stretches. Just leave the front hubs locked and shift in and out of 4WD as conditions warrant.

That said, I run a rebuilt front solid axle CV shaft up front, modified with a long travel Spicer slip yoke (officially its 4" slip, but it'll pull out to about 7-8" before separating). Rear springs up front:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...II.shtml#Front

Minimal lift with my spring pack but loads of travel.
True, i would hate to drive home on an unbalanced front driveshaft, but in an emergency it will at least get you to where you can propperly repair it. And i guess not everyone has a tow rig.
Old 03-23-2004, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by joez
True, i would hate to drive home on an unbalanced front driveshaft, but in an emergency it will at least get you to where you can propperly repair it. And i guess not everyone has a tow rig.
At least not yet! Also, for bombing across the desert, nice to cruise over the washboard at 50 MPH, in 4WD w/o having the rig shaken to pieces from the front end.
Old 03-24-2004, 10:20 AM
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Tow rig! What's that? Oh yeah, That's what my Jeep lovin brother uses. Tows his Jeep to the trail. Then takes an hour to unload it. Personally, I like the idea of driving my street legal Toyota to the trail. Then showing up my brother with it. I could understand the whole square drive shaft thing if I was building a "trail only" rig. But this thing has to get me to and from work everyday. So, in my case it would be better to spend some coin.
Old 03-24-2004, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by roktoy84
Tow rig! What's that? Oh yeah, That's what my Jeep lovin brother uses. Tows his Jeep to the trail. Then takes an hour to unload it. Personally, I like the idea of driving my street legal Toyota to the trail. Then showing up my brother with it. I could understand the whole square drive shaft thing if I was building a "trail only" rig. But this thing has to get me to and from work everyday. So, in my case it would be better to spend some coin.
Takes me about 5 minutes to have the toyota ready to roll. And mines still street legal, gets driven arround town, and to school every once in a while. But peace of mind is nice to have. If im driving more than a couple hours away, i tow it. Plus there is the comfort factor.
Old 03-24-2004, 11:44 PM
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Don't get me wrong. If we're going more than 3-4 hours away, I'll tow mine too. Everyone knows that Toyota's aren't known for being the roomiest 4x4 ever. But the bro spends all his time and most of his money on something he can really only enjoy maybee a dozen times a year. Mine, on the other hand, I can better enjoy the fruits of my labor, by driving it everyday.
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