The rear diff on my 96 taco is showing signs of a future faliure.

Should I just head to the boneyard and pick up a complete rear axle? just the diff? or just replace the gears that are worn?

I'm asking this because I'm planning to put an air locker in and changing the gear ratios this spring (after taxes).

Your opinions and answers will be greatly appreciated.

 

Run it till it blows, if it don't...just buy a complete overhaul kit when you go to install the gears and ARB this coming spring. If it does blow, more your gear and locker plans forward and get'r done.

By showing signs of future failure....what you mean?

 

grinding, popping, and clicking sounds from rear end, wheel hop while turning tight corners, and info I recieved from the used car stealership I bought it from about the previous owner changing the rear to a different ratio.I don't think he did the front.

 

Leave out the grinding and from what you say it sounds like the previous owner installed a lunchbox locker. The only way to know for sure is to take it apart (remove 3rd member). You can verify all 3 things at once whilst you have it apart. 1) If the ratio has been changed 2) if there's a locker installed 3) (hopefully) where the grinding may be coming from.

If It were me, I'd look for a E-lok't complete axle assy. (8") If that proves impossible, just buy the diff. (8.4")

 

If he installed a locker, why would it start working 6 months after I bought it?

 

It's probably a wheel bearing. You can verify this when removing the 3rd. They're easy enough to replace. That's something that could show 6 months later. I was just saying, that sounds like a locker. You really need to verify that R&P ratio anyway so you might as well check the wheel bearing and peek at the diff.

 

Depending on your gearing if you need the rear to get by I have a ring and pinion and spider gears I will let go cheap. It may not be your gears though. I have seen several tacomas that the lock pin holding the cross shaft in breaks allowing the cross pin to move. This makes a poping and banging sound and eventually will wallow out the carrier letting the cross pin slide more. Sometimes the crossshaft will break and lock the whole rear end up. I have seen this 3 times in taco rears I have rebuilt and once in my own personal front end when I had IFS

 

sounds like a good idea to do a visual......drain the fluid and see the condition of the oil....then pop the diff out for an inspection.

 

Well, so much for waiting for spring. It failed on Christmas Eve on my way home from work.

Thanks for the input. Looks like i'll be going to the junkyard after I get the rear end tore apart.

Who makes a install kit for the rear diff?

 

are you going to rebuild the old third, or drop in a used one?

If you're planning on rebuilding the existing unit, Randy's Ring and Pinion has full install kits- all the bearings bearings, shims, marking compound, ring bolts, crush sleeve, and gasket. You will prolly need a new carrier if the side gears let go, along with a new ring and pinion if the thing has totally grenaded- so a junkyard special is probably the way to go unless you want to do the ARB now.

 

I was gonna replace the third w/ the junkyard one. then rebuilt the fragged one for the arb install this summer. I'll just have to wait and see what kind of shape the fragged one is in.

 

when my rear diff went, i got a knocking from the rear that intensified as speed increased, and went away when i'd get off the gas or push in the clutch. turned out that 2 pinion teeth had sheared off and 1 was halfway gone. the carrier had been hit by the shrapnel, it looked like it had been slashed in a couple places with a large knife

replacing the rear diff isn't too hard. just disconnect the brake lines at the axles, remove 4 bolts per side and slide them out. then all you have to do is unbolt your driveline and unbolt the third member. it takes some coaxing to get off, so whack the case with a dead blow hammer until it comes loose.

 

Just so you know unless things have changed and this may be a front issue only and not a rear but i learned this when i replaced my front carrier 2 years ago .No one makes an aftermarket open plain jane carrier except toyota. The cost of the carrier alone without spider gears was more then the front diff housing. Toyota list the carrier as a case and the front housing as a carrier. found this out when I called and told them I needed a carrier and got the front housing. This may not have any reference to the rear but just a heads up. I'd get the junkyard rear and then rebuild the blown chunk with something else. Or just get a trd rear

 

Got it apart last night. Will post pics later.

 

 

Took a dump alright. Looks like you took my advise (although not the best) and ran it till it blew.

 

It didn't take very long did it. All it took was a little wheel spin on ice then hitting dry pavement. I didn't even know they were spinning until I heard a crunch.

 

Nah, it sure didn't. The only way you would of found that it to take it apart anywayz.

I took my first NoSlip out just like that...spinning on ice and hit pavement with one wheel.