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Offroad TechDiscussion pertaining to additions or questions which improve off-road ability, recovery and safety, such as suspension, body lifts, lockers etc
Due to installing a 4wheel Underground 3 link front suspension, I had to flip the tie rod to the underside of the arms (bored out taper bores to run hiem ends). Tie rod is interfering with diff cover a little shy of what should be full steering lock.
None of the various Mfgs of high steer arms seem to have any dimensions listed so I'm asking here: What is the distance from the centerline of the front studs to the center of your tie rod and drag link holes?
I'm hoping that someone makes arms that are a bit longer than mine. (Marlin, Allpro, FROR, etc.)
For the record, I'm running Sky's Offroad arms and measured as follows with my highly calibrated eyeball
Centerline of front studs to:
Tie Rod - 3 3/8"
Drag Link - 5 5/8"
Help a fella out and post up those numbers fellow Yotatechers!
I'm building a 4Wheelunderground 3 link front and 4 link rear right now. I recently modified my steering arms but they are TG high steer arms. I flipped my TRE's under and have no issues hitting the diff. I can get you pics and measurement tomorrow if it will help.
You can buy offset rod ends and save buying new arms. They will get you an inch more room. Lots of places sell them. 3/4" and 7/8" left and right for tie rods.
That's a pretty sweet build you're working on! I look forward to seeing how the 4 link rear comes together. (seems like there's no problem here with linking to your other forum posts, I see mud and pirate links here often) I'm thinking I may go that route at some point, but seeing if the chev 63's with the future addition of a trac bar will be sufficient. (and save me around $4G). For the record, I just finished my 3 link up in January and have only gotten her out a few times, but it's night and day difference.
Looks like you had to do a bit more clearencing of the TG arms than I did to clear the panhard mount.
I was looking at the offset rod ends and will likely just go that way. Please so post up the dimensions on the TG arms though. I figure that it's info that someone may find useful in the future for their custom application.
I'll try to post up some pics soon. Maybe some sexy coilover yota pics will get some other responses.
Nice truck! I'll try to get measurements tomorrow. (I ended up taking a friend to the hospital today for a dislocated shoulder. So didn't get to my truck today)
I have 63" Chevys on my 88. I got them as new take offs from a 2017. Just for the heck of it I tried adding some lift by arching them in my HF 20 ton press. It actually worked. I've been running them problem free for a few years. No lift blocks and super flexy. I did have to make an anti wrap bar. Yup, DEFINITLY cheaper than a 4 link.
Last edited by aztoyman; Mar 12, 2022 at 07:28 PM.
I was messing with it a bit today and realized it's not as bad as it was before I got an alignment done a couple weeks ago (I probably had too much toe in?). I am still hitting the panhard mount and only a hair off the diff at hard right turn before I get to "max I want to turn the knuckle", but I'll live with it for now.
Offset rod ends won't work, it will definitely interfere with the castle nut for the drag link turning left.
Everything works fine, I just don't want to sacrifice any turning radius. Doing Austin Powers turns on the trail or in the rocks kinda sucks.
Building a thinner walled tie rod might net me just enough clearance. This one feels pretty overkill for my truck. It's the 3/4" rod end tire rod kit from Ruff Stuff.
All that being said, I am still interested in what the other high steer arm lengths are, especially the Marlin ones. The "bigger bearing" version makes buying new arms seem like I'm gaining more.
Anyone with Marlin arms, please slap a tape on your pass side knuckle!!
For fun, a full droop pic. Note: The wheel spacers are just till I can get my new wheels so don't bad mouth me too much.