For a long time I never ran mine above 110psi for just that reason. It is very hard to get air pressure higher than that with normal compressors. I've used my ARB compressor to air them up to 100psi, my big compressor at home will do 110psi. I now have an on-board CO2 tank which could go up to bursting pressure, but 110psi is high enough for me anyway. At 110psi the ride gets pretty stiff. At 25psi they are quite soft, I usually run them at about 40psi unless I'm loaded down in back, or wheeling steep trails.

 

So that answers my question then. I was wondering if the factory fill point was cross-linked in such a way that wouldn't hinder flexing, and if the gabriel and Monroe shocks are the same, then I'd love to know what type of valve you go to make them independent of each other, which would help me even more when towing my trailer???

Chris

P.S. Also, how do you measure each shock with this valve to make sure that each has the same amount of air pressure or does it do it automatically?

 

I have an Airlift setup that has the compressor, guages, controls, bags etc. I'll be selling it for pretty cheap here if you are interested.


EDIT: BTW I just did this mod last week. The hardest part is drilling out the rubber bushings to 3/4" inch. I spent almost an hour just on that.... Besides that, it seems to ride fine.

 

I've got first dibs on selling my airlift kit, because I started this thread! J/K, but

Chris

 

The value I used was from Lowes or Home Depot and is one of those cheap water line valves like is commonly used for the little 1/4 inch water line that goes to ice makers in your freezer. The only trickey part is finding the correct fittings to mate the line to the air shocks, but I found those at Lowes too. It helps if you unscrew one of the stock Monroe fittings and take it to the store with you. It would help a lot with your trailer, it's like having a sway bar when they are un-linked.

As far as the air pressure in each one you just have to open the valve before you air them up or check the pressure. I have found it usefull for tracking down leaks too. By checking the air pressure before opening up the valve and then again after openning the valve you can tell if one side is leaking or not. If you wanted to have a higher pressure on one side you could open up the valve, air up to that pressure, then close the valve and adjust the pressure on the other side with the valve closed. Does that make sense? There is just one valve stem for airing up.

 

Wow, so you're going to make me search for this aren't you? J/K, but I have no clue at this point. I'll try to find them.

Chris

 

LOL, Sorry. I just read the entire thread.

Last week I remembered seeing that someone was interested in being able to adjust the pressure from their cab. I figured the compressor I have would be a good idea, but I wasn't sure on selling it then. I decded over the weekend to get rid of it and just skimmed the thread till I saw his name.

By all means sell your first (though I will beat your price by half)

j/k - I'll wait till you dump yours before I post mine in the classifieds, just don't let it go too cheap or I'll have to you!

 

No big deal at all, but price probably will win. By the way, have you checked to see what the going rate is on the Outback 1000 Kit is lately?

Chris

 

LOL, it's not that hard to find, they are very common. I should have noted that the fitting I found to adapt the 1/4 inch air line to the shock body doesn't seal by compression like the Monroe fiittings do with the little o-ring, I just used teflon tape to seal the threads where it screws on to the shock body. You can see the fitting in this pic: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...10088111luJhMz The only leaking problems I've had were with the original Monroe or Gabriel fittings that I've used on the passenger side.

 

I know that a new setup runs $102 for the bags and like $187 for the compressor/guages. I havn't really seen what they go for used except for what I paid for mine.

Off the top of your head do you recall what PSI the compressor can go up to? I just got to thinking that setting it up in the rear storage compartment and running it off the rear cig lighter just when I need it might be a posibility... Hmm I may end up keeping mine after all... I'll have to think it through.

 

Chris or yoda,
Please email me and let me know what you would like for either of your complete Air Lift setups.

Andreas

 

Does anyone have a preference between Firestone "Ride-Rite" air bags and Air Lift's version? If so, why? Prices for both of these setups appear to be in the same range.

Andreas

 

So where do you mount this valve? Which line? Does it matter?

Chris

 

Doesn't really matter, if you put it close to the valve stem it is more convenient when airing up.

 

Chris,
I'm still trying to decide if your idea with the shocks will do what I need, or if I should go with the air bags. Your solution is certainly more elegant/cleaner than air bags. What are your impressions at this point and do you have any pics of the setup?

Andreas

 

It all depends on what you want to achieve. They do exactly the same thing in a different way, that's all. It's all in how you want to do it. I'll take some pictures tonight for everyone to see how they work.

Chris

 

Okay, guys, here's the pics you've all been waiting for. I'm very impressed with these shocks so far, and I think I'm going to go ahead and sell my N86's. They worked great tonight with 20psi and 120psi. So, here's the long awaited pics:

Here's a pic of 20psi, which is the lowest recommended air pressure. Keep in mind all I have in my truck is my spare tire, my hi-lift jack, and that's about it.


Here's a pic that shows how close I am to the bumpstop, but it's probably a little hard to see, sorry!


Here's a picture of the mounting location I used, just up on the wheelwell lip, which may be slightly harder for those with 0-1" of body lift, but maybe not:


Here's a pic of the air line running over to the passenger side, but this probably won't apply to anyone, because I've relocated my gas tank. Either way, it's really easy to find stuff to ziptie the line too:


Here's the air line running from the shock up through the little nut head and over to the driver's side:


Here's the driver's side air line routing, same as the passenger side:


Here's the passenger side air line routing:


Ok, here's the picture that tells it all:


That's a 3" difference in height between 20 psi and 120 psi, and keep in mind that 160 psi is the maximum pressure recommended:


That's 27 1/4" at the lowest setting and 30 1/4" at 120 psi. Who's going that kind of departure angle with all those custom bumpers out there??


Here's another bad picture showing the 3" additional inches of height gained at the bump stop:


And to finish off, here's the cheap Walmart branch air pump that easily pumps it up:


Hope this helps you guys! I'm very happy with my purchase, and I'm sure you guys will be too, because it's easy to install, infinitely adjustable, their cross-linked for great suspension travel off-road, and apparently with a little valve they can un-cross-linked to assist with sway when towing or loaded down heavily. How can you beat that for a whopping $70?

Chris

 

How does it flex at different psi?

 

Well, for those of you that need to know. The exact same shocks go on the pickups. I ordered mine already!

 

Well, I haven't fully tested them, but tonight I had them at 120 psi, sitting 3 1/2" higher than stock and 3 1/4" higher than 20 psi, and they flexed all the way until I was about 2" from my bumpstops. I beleive that on a ramp or out the trail they've probably flex right to the bumpstops as normal, which is really weird to me, but I love the extra height they provide, that's for sure. They'd be great for you Brett!

Chris