ravencr

Hey guys, I'm in the early stages of testing these shocks out, but I'm very impressed so far.

Monroe Max-Air MA700's

They are adjustable from 20 - 160 psi with a maximum additional load carrying capacity of 1200 lbs. I installed them this past weekend on both my trailer and my 1997 4runner for a couple of reasons. My wife and I have been going camping quite a bit here lately, and when I load the 4runner down with everything I need and tow the dirtbikes/ATV's I'm riding on my bumpstops. The ride was terrible, not to mention the trailer was all over the place due my truck having such a soft suspension for off-roading.

So, I first installed the MA803 shocks on my trailer to assist with the load. It helped some, but mainly just kept it from wobbling side to side when making a turn.

Then, I drove 4.5-5 hours this past weekend to Land Between the Lakes to camp and dirtbike, and the drive was terrible. I couldn't break 60-65 mph, because the trailer would start swaying all over the road. Now, I don't run any swaybars, but I couldn't take it anymore. So, Friday before I left I bought another set of Monroe shocks, the MA700's. Here's the specs for them compared to the common OME's that I've been running:

1) OME N86 12.95 Compressed - 21.2 Extended - 8.25" of travel
2) MA700 12.75 Compressed - 21.375 Extended - 8.625" of travel

So, at initial glance, they looked great. Then I talked with Schaeffer a bit, and found out that our lower mount was .75" x 1.5". So, I toyed with the idea of trying it out, and I'm glad I did. So, here's what you have to modify to make it work:

1) Drill out the rubber lower bushing on the shock using a 3/4" bit

Mount 'em up and that's it. It takes less than an hour to install, you can mount the inflation point anywhere you want on your vehicle, and you can adjust your ride height(ie carrying capacity) from sagging rear end to higher than your suspension lift provides when carrying large loads.

So far, I'm very impressed with the ride, and instead of me having a slightly lower rear end after moving my gas tank, I now can ride level or slightly higher in the rear. Plus, I went from riding on my bumpstops fully loaded, to being approximately 4-6" higher, leaving me plenty of suspension travel to still enjoy while towing.

Chris

4RUNR

How does it ride at 20psi? Bouncy or just soft?
And what do you use to pump them up? Not many even good quality tire pumps will go above 80psi.

That sounds like a good alternative to airbags, which I don't trust at all when going off asphalt.

ravencr

don't know what they ride like at 20 psi, but I'd say very similar to your stock suspension setup that I was running before installing the shocks, but slightly stiffer. I will know more possible tonight when I experiment more. As far as pumping them, I just used my 'el cheapo compressor from walmart, and it pumped it up in less than 1 minute to 110 psi, no problems.

Chris

mastacox

Most air compressors I have seen that you can buy go up to somewhere around 250 psi...

4RUNR

The gauge goes up to 250psi. In reality, most high volume compressor (and high quality) would have trouble even going up to 100psi. The cheap variety, that takes 20 minutes to fill up a tire might be able to go a little higher by the simple fact that they use a small motor connected to a TINY piston. Large motor and large piston do not go as high.

To get 160psi you’d need a bicycle air shock pump, which were made specifically desiged for that purpose, because most other pumps can’t do it.

ravencr

It's a very small volume of air to pump these up. You'd be very surprised at how quickly they inflate.

Chris

aowRS

Chris,
I've been thinking of adding the exact same setup, but would love to plumb an in-cab inflate/deflate control.

Any thoughts on the strength of the factory shock mounts in relation to the added stress caused by a fully-loaded truck? Or is the thought to simply level the rear while loaded with a normal capacity (what I would like to do)?

Andreas

ravencr

I don't know if their strong enough to handle the extra load placed on them from these shocks. That will be tested heavily by me as time goes on. If you're not hauling heavy loads, I'd say you'd definitely be good to go!

Chris

aowRS

Where do you have the inflation point mounted, and do you have any pics of the installed shocks?

Andreas

ravencr

I put the inflation point on the driver's side lowest point on the fenderwell. There's about a 2" lip where it's easy to access to pump up. As far as installation pics, I can take some tonight if the rain ever stops.

Chris

Unhappy99

Most interesting, and a great find if it works well. I'll try these if I can't fix my leaking airbags.

One thing to take caution in: vehicles with an LPV (load proportioning valve) on the brake lines should NOT be raised above normal ride height, unless you recal the LPV. You need the rear brakes to do some work.

This also goes for when these vehicles are loaded or towing, don't raise them all the way back up to normal height, let them sag a bit so the LPV sees there is a load. Otherwise, all your braking is done by the fronts.

dragr1

iTrader: (3)

Great idea Chris! I wanna see some pics. I also want to know if the tiny bit of extra travel will allow the zerk fitting on the driveshaft to contact the gas tank skid like some people had a problem with when running shocks longer than the OME's.

ravencr

Actually, with the OME shocks and no rear swaybar you'll hit the gas tank all the time when flexed out. You have to pound it in to keep it from hitting. With these new shocks, if you've pounded and cut the section of skid plate that hits, you'll be good to go. It's too little of a difference to make any real difference, in my opinion, and unfortunately won't be able to test it since my tank is no longer there.

Chris

P.S. Brett, I'd highly recommend it when you tow your trailer, because it's way heavier than mine.

dragr1

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, my thoughts exactly and with the cargo box back there full time. Surprisingly though with the camper, sag isn't that bad, even when the 4Runner is loaded down. Do you have 890 or 891 rear springs? That would make a big difference.

jimbo74

as far as the mounts go, someone said to put a pipe inside of the rear mount and weld it in there.. not sure on the size... schedule 40 i think.... its in the thread about 934rnr and his flatbed shock mount i think

ravencr

Stock springs, which is the main reason I went this route, so I can still have my flexy springs when I'm on the trail.

Chris

aowRS

Chris,
I am really close to either go the same route you did, or install a set of rear Air Lift bags with an in-cab controller. What are your impressions now and do you have any pics of the install?

Andreas

ravencr

Yes, we went on another camping trip this weekend, and I can say this is a very simple, easy mod to assist with towing and/or the saggin' butt syndrome. As far as install goes, it's about as easy as it gets. I have a set of airlift outback 1000 kit and I'll sell to you cheap. I used it, but due to my flexy rear suspension, I decided to go the monroe way this time around.

Chris

aowRS

Chris,
I read your post from 2003 earlier this evening - I presume it's the same kit you were selling back then?

If so, please send me an email and let me know what you would want for it, shipped to Ellicott City, MD 21043.

Cheers,
Andreas

mt_goat

I've been running air shocks front and rear for a few years now. The Toyota shock mounts are strong, no problems with mine. Here is an in-cab set-up for you: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runne...ar_air_shocks/

I have installed a valve on the front and back to disconnect the cross-linking while on-road. That helps the handling a lot at higher speeds. Here are some pics:
Front: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...10088321FKnjMy
Rear: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...10088111luJhMz