I'll ask my dad...

Thanks for the support.

 

I knew what Adrian was talking about.

 

If money is an issue, which it sounds like it is, just lock your rear, especially if you're not planning on running bigger tires in the future. Just the rear locker will get you into all sorts of trouble, and if you go with an arb in the back you'll already be set up with the compressor to do the front. Why spend all the extra cash if you don't need the front locker. You'll get huge gains locking the rear, and incremental gains after locking the front.

 

I thought about it, but here is the deal:

I'm not paying for this, my dad is.

We talked it over and I told him I could at least do the rear but he said, just do both ends while you're at it and get it over with.

The pricing on the selectable lockers is going to give him a surprise since we were first looking at LSD.

For dual ARBs, I was estimating around $1,200-1,500, but stepping into reality, it's likely it won't happen.

I spent hours yesterday searching for a post of a member who broke down the cost of his, and I could of sworn, the total read $1,200 (dual ARB lockers), but I couldn't find it.

Going with ARB, I may only do the rear. I'll see what he has to say about both ARB ends...

I may end up paying for the front myself.

 

Something else people do is get a lsd in the rear and an ARB in the front. That way it handles well on the street since the front isn't engaged.

Obviously it's not as good as 2 lockers, but I think it's supposed to be pretty good. Then again, it's probably only $200-300 less this way.

 

Here is my price break down for my dual ARB set-up.

Rear Precision geared ARB'd third member complete was $1150 plus some core. I sold my old third for $400, so in some senses it cost me only $1000.

Front cost break down:
ARB RD90 $600
Precision Gears $200
Bearings, gear set-up and blah at the shop was $800 or so IIRC

Then there is assorted compressor, fittings, steel air lines and other stuff that I cannot add up right now.

If you have open diffs now, having one locker will blow your mind.

The times I find myself using my front locker are when my bumpers, sliders and skid plates are talking, and not quietly.

I see no point in popping the front diff open if all you are doing is locking it, might as well regear too. If I had not been in dire need for more gearing for 33's, I would only have one locker now.

Obviously any and all of this goes out the window if you can get stuff for free or at great discount or used. Then you can do it for a case of beer and a couple of pizzas. The truth is this is how much it cost me. Sorry to not tell you what you want to hear.

 

I need to find out what gears I have for certain.

I think I have 4.88s and if I do, I wouldn't want to go anywhere else.

If I have 4.56s, I'd like to go with the 4.88s.

I tried doing it by the VIN number but it didn't help at all.

 

OK, I have 4.88s on the REAR with a 4 pinion set up.

On the front, I also have 4.88s as well.

I am staying that way.

 

I had a Tacoma LTD with rear locker before my 96, and let me tell you, it was more than sufficient for the types of trails you will tackle in your rig here in AZ. Personally, I think you should just lock the rear given your budget and overall use of the truck.

My Taco would walk up the wooptie-do’s with ease. My open-diff Heep buddies would get really pissed when they started burning out and launching dirt in the air as they nearly tipped over on the same trail.

I would start rear, and then lock the front if that isnt enough.

BTW, what shop did you go to so I can avoid it?

 

DESERT FOX 4X4

It's on 51ST AVE just two blocks north of GLENDALE.

 

What Year Model truck do you have?

If you got factory 4.88's the third members are totally different than the rest, if so you won't be able to use ARB lockers unless you completely change out your third members.

 

yep, Bruce is correct.

 

I thought/might be willing to bet that runners were the only rigs that got the deep gears, as in the 4.88's.

If not, then Bruce and Shane are right, but there is a specific Detroit Soft locker for the rear and the front does not matter.

 

will the v6 lock rite fit in a factory 4.88 diff? i remember hearing about this diff as a bastard child of toyota, but i dont know if lock rites will fit

 

It's a '94

Does ARB have those third members available?

I checked my codes on my code plate inside the door, and it specified that I have 4.88's---G144

What is the DETROIT SOFT LOCKER??

Why is it called SOFT??

 

Soft because it engages and disengages based on whether or not you are turning...I think.

 

Well, after talking to different people about it, it's not likely it'll happen.

:cry: :cry:

 

I don't know this guy with 52 years experience but his ARB remark is pretty much right on

Detroits too noisy??? not good for a DD????

I've got a bud in Tucson that washes windows for a living.....has had the old style Detroit Hard Locker in his 85 Yota Work truck for 14 years now....he would get a chuckle out of your DD comment. And, in about 1995, Trac-Tech came out with the Soft Locker in an attempt to make them more road friendly for the Saturn crowd.

A limited slip is........limited. If you want to be limited then there ya go. That's my opinion.....all 20 years of it.

 

What is the code fo 4.56's?

 

OK, now I understand. Factory 4.88's are a bad thing in ARB land. Is this a problem in both the front and rear? Now I've got to search for used 3rd's that will work.

Can I just get any 2nd Gen 3rds that don't have 4.88's? Should I get the V6 3rds? I know a couple of places that have these. I read on Pirate that a used 3rd should go for $30 or so?

Is there anything special I need to make sure is included with the front 3rd since I have ADD?

Is there a general consensys on who makes the best gears? Yukon, Genuine, other?

Looks like 5.29's are in my future!!