My enlightening weekend (Pics included!)
#41
That's a good tip Steve. I think the reflector/lens on my lights are focusing on a spot about 30 feet below ground at the moment. It gets the job done, which the later pictures attest to that a little better, but its not optimum. Some tweaking will have to be done for sure.
#42
looks good- you'll enjoy the extra visability!
A couple of observations from all the years of burning up electrical components I've done 
100W bulbs will require you to rewire it if you used the small gauge wire that comes w/ the kit and use relay soliniods in between the switchs and the lights. Remember the basic electrical equation: Volts x Amps = Watts, so at 14.2V in a perfect situation, each 100W light pulls 7.04A. W/ line loss, it's over 10A per light. For effective 100W or 120W lights, primary wire (10 Guage) is a minimum. I use a 50A constant duty solinoid as the relay, run 10G wire directly to the battery and lights, and use 16G wire for the interior switches. I tried using the relays that came w/ the KC's, but was not happy w/ the size or quality- it was rated at 25A, and I didn't consider that enough over the requirements of the lights.
So, if your running six 55W lights, your pulling 23A if there was no line lose. The load is probably closer to 30A.
Your sound system, CB, AC or heater are pulling at least that much or more- I know my 200W Amp alone is pulling 15A, the radio is similar, and the EFI system must draw a BUNCH of Amp's- it has a 75A Fuze! I'm sure the Optima is handling a lot more draw than it probably should
, but I usually don't have the stereo cranked when wheelin' anyway--
later
Originally posted by Mad Chemist
.............I may switch out the bulbs for 100W at some point. It was a pain running the wire up and out of the way.
.............I may switch out the bulbs for 100W at some point. It was a pain running the wire up and out of the way.

100W bulbs will require you to rewire it if you used the small gauge wire that comes w/ the kit and use relay soliniods in between the switchs and the lights. Remember the basic electrical equation: Volts x Amps = Watts, so at 14.2V in a perfect situation, each 100W light pulls 7.04A. W/ line loss, it's over 10A per light. For effective 100W or 120W lights, primary wire (10 Guage) is a minimum. I use a 50A constant duty solinoid as the relay, run 10G wire directly to the battery and lights, and use 16G wire for the interior switches. I tried using the relays that came w/ the KC's, but was not happy w/ the size or quality- it was rated at 25A, and I didn't consider that enough over the requirements of the lights.
So, if your running six 55W lights, your pulling 23A if there was no line lose. The load is probably closer to 30A.
Your sound system, CB, AC or heater are pulling at least that much or more- I know my 200W Amp alone is pulling 15A, the radio is similar, and the EFI system must draw a BUNCH of Amp's- it has a 75A Fuze! I'm sure the Optima is handling a lot more draw than it probably should
, but I usually don't have the stereo cranked when wheelin' anyway--later
#43
Crawler,
Thanks for the wire info. I honestly didn't put too much thought into the wiring, since I wasn't sure how it was going to turn out. I mostly used 12 gauge throughout, but when I ran short on wire, used some 16 gauge I had laying around. I'm most likely going to replace all the wire with 10 gauge and relays based on your suggestion. For the time being, I'm just going to be cautious about having too many things running at the same time!
Thanks for the wire info. I honestly didn't put too much thought into the wiring, since I wasn't sure how it was going to turn out. I mostly used 12 gauge throughout, but when I ran short on wire, used some 16 gauge I had laying around. I'm most likely going to replace all the wire with 10 gauge and relays based on your suggestion. For the time being, I'm just going to be cautious about having too many things running at the same time!
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