Guys, getting ready to rework my whole intake/exhaust system. For those of you running the EFI filter charger systems, how do they do at keeping water out? I realize that with on open element I will simply have to be more careful and will need to aviod splahing through the deep pools as I have enjoyed doing in the past, but I am wondering if the oil in the filter actually helps keep water out? I guess my question is, do you think I stand a better, worse, or equal chance of sucking water into the engine if I go splashing through a big pool?

 

Scott-

Your chance to suck in water is always better when running an open element. Its also much higher to suck in dirt, especially with a K&N.

Have you considered what some other guys have ran on their rides? There are many different intake ideas going around here. If I ran off road, I would do everything I could to avoid K&N filters. But I realize you are a bit limited with a 91. How about the ISR mod?

 

My experiences w/ open element filters and water has not been good. Unless the filter is located in an area that water is not able to get directly to it, they get wet and muddy from tire spray alone. IMHO the minor gains in power over using a K&N in the stock airbox don't make up for the possiblity of pulling water and more dirt into the motor.

later

 

I'm gonna risk throwing in my 2 cents. In my past experience with cars, trucks, and motorcycles, I have never had a problem that can be traced back to a K & N filter. They provide great air flow, and I won't get into if they are better or worse than others, because I have no way of testing. I've never had a vehicle stall, or become damaged from water getting through the air intake, and I have seen water come up over the hood several times. Be sensible about how and where you drive, walk the water crossing first, and act accordingly. If the water is up to your bumper, you still have almost a foot of clearance to your air filter, whatever air filter you have. Drive slowly and don't splash. If you need to drive fast through water, buy a snorkel and be done with it. If you get a lot of mud and water in the engine compartment from the front tires, buy a couple of extra rubber floor mats and rivet or bolt them in the openings from your wheel wells to stop the problem.
As long as this is about k & N filters, I'll say one more thing. They probably do let in some dust and dirt. More air flow is achieved through more surface area, but also through less filter material. I'm not sure what the big deal is about this, dirt gets in and engines still run. No it's not great for them, but it's part of using them. I've never had a Toyota go less than 200k miles, including my current truck, and I had one that was sold with 365k and was still going strong, all with K & N. Sorry this is long-winded, but I think the K & N filters get an unfair bad rap on this board and wanted to say my piece.

 

I agree the MNBOY. If you don't submerge your engine, you will be OK with the FIPK.

You might want to consider something K&N has now called a "Drycharger" filter wrap. It is basically a sock that goes over the element. It is a siliconized fabric to help make the element water resistant (not waterproof). I have one, when the wife returns, I'll get a pic.

A heat sheild next to the engine would also help to guard against splashes onto the element. Our model of FIPK doesn't have these (unless they've changed since I got mine). I was planning to get one bent up at some point. If there is enough of an interest, maybe this can get to the front of my priority list.

I had also toyed with rerouting the K&N to where the cruise is up at the top of the engine compartment. This would add another measure of safety, although it might not work given the available space.

I've had my open K&N for a good 5 years and never had a problem. I even cleaned my TB a month ago (for the first time ever) and it wasn't really all that dirty. I was surprised, frankly.

 

Guys-

He is talking about an open element. Those are definetly more prone to getting water in.

If you are talking about a drop in, then no its not any worse than stock as far as water inhalation goes.

 

That's what I gathered. The drycharger shields it from splashes, but not being submerged.

 

Okay, I guess I will just avoid any potential trouble and go with a snorkel set up. Hey Lee (Firefyter-Emt), I just read your write up on your snorkel install. Have you noticed any perfomance reduction with the snorkel installed?

 

i had a volant cold air intake on my 2.7 and it had an airbox around it, it wasnt sealed as well as stock, but it was better than no box at all. well i took it off road in a lot of dirt and dust and about a day or so later i got a check engine light so i reinstalled the stock airbox and cleaned my MAF sensor and all was back to normal. so my personal experience has lead me to believe that the stock airbox is the safest.
but thats just my $.02, do with it what you will.

-Casey

 

Here's a pic of the Drycharger wrap for anyone who hasn't seen one installed. It's supposed to make the intrake water resistant.

No, I won't pour a glass of water on it with the engine running either.