CraZyRunner

does anyone know of any companies that offer a second generation 4runner 5-6" lift??

Randomness

Nope. You can get a 4" Superlift + bodylift. Why do you need to go that high?

suprathepeg

Thats a lot of suspension lift dude.

Here is what my .02 on lifts.

Lift as little as possible, base your lift on the tires you are wanting to comfortabily fit.

Always start with a bodylift 2"-3" no more then 3" especially if your gonna stick with the IFS. A lot of the old school people will say that this isn't the "right way" to properly lift a truck but here is my arguement:

-a BL will effect the center of gravity the least, by raising only the body you keep the weight of the frame and powertrain closer to the ground. All this means a more stable ride and a safer one. There are a lot of instances where trucks with too much suspension lift have rolled on the trail because of the high center of gravity.

-a BL can also increase your clearance if you also do a drivetrain lift while still keeping your COG low. I would rather my frame rails hit the rocks before my Tcase and gastank.

-a BL can also make maintenance easier cause you have more access to the oil filter etc a small thing yea but it does help.

-Finally a BL can be way cheeper and that means more $ for other areas of you rig. Roger at 4crawler makes a great product and has a ton of info for installation.

If it was me and say I wanted to fit 35" tires I would do a 2-3" BL and 2-3" susp lift. you can get 1.5" in the front just cranking the T-bars and another 1"or so with balljoint spacers. So thats 2.5 of front lift for like $200. The rear is real easy to get a cheep 2-3" I would do 3" spring spacer blocks in the rear for less then $100 4crawler has these as well. If your runner has a fat saggy ass then you could also get a higher rate spring from a local spring shop for a good price as well.

Basicly this is a way to get 5" of lift for close to $1000 and you still have a rig that handles well and safely.

Like I said some would say I'm wrong but there's my .02.

tc

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10

I disagree with suprathepeg. All a body lift does is allow you to run bigger tires, which has a pretty minimal impact on ground clearance. Also, big bodylifts result in an unsightly (to me anyways) gap between the frame and body, especially the bumpers. Also, now you have big wheels/tires on stock hardware.

Suspension lifts are built with heavier-duty hardware because they know you will be running bigger tires offroad. How big a tire do you want to run?

Unimog axles would give you that much lift, but $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ and all custom fab. Do a search - there's some pix on here of one.

suprathepeg

This guy isn't saying anything about doing an SAS so whats the point of beefing up all that and still have that weak link, I mean to each his own but your not gonna get great articulation with the IFS anyway so...

If he is looking for a superlift or something I doubt he will be any happier then the solution I suggested and will have a higher COG and a much lighter wallet.

Bumpers and such are an easy fix and the exposed frame makes sliders easier to install.

If you have the cash and aren't looking for a street queen then spend it on a SAS bottom line but if keeping the IFS then there is limited benefit other then taller tires to a 5" susp lift. You get at least 4" of necessary lift with an SAS if you go that route from what I hear so your almost there with that option.

All I'm saying is there is a IMHO cost/benefit to being "creative" with your lift.

Randomness

I disagree with some of what suprapeg said. They have their uses, but I don't think they're a good starting point for a lift. I'd add a 1 or 2" BL if needed after you have the rest of the suspension sorted. I also would NOT recommend 3" coil spacers for the rear, especially with the stock coils, since they'll just sag right back in a few months.

Unless you're doing at least 35-37" tires, why would you need that much lift? Even then, 6" is overkill for 35's, I think.

Get BJ spacers, crank your tbars a bit if you have to, put Cruiser coils in the rear, and then add a 1" (maybe 2") BL if you feel it's necessary. That should give you about 4-5" (1.5" BJ spacers, .5"-1" t-bar crank, 3" LC coils, 1-2" BL).

Still, I think you'd be better off relaxing the t-bars a bit, putting in the BJ spacers and getting maybe .5-1" of lift out of them, OME/Downey coils in the rear. You could definitely fit 33's, and you'd have improved suspension travel in the front and rear. If you still wanted more, a 1-2" BL would be ok. My $.04

suprathepeg

Everything said here is solid, and I agree with it i was more tyring to show him how to get the lift he wanted. But with lift less is always more.

Randomness

Yup, it's cliche but true, "lift as little as possible, but as much as needed".

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Bigger tires are the only way to get more ground clearance, at least under the axles where clearance is the least to begin with. A suspension lift will raise the frame off of the axles. Most lifts only replace a part of the suspension, for example the springs and shocks. The axle stays the same, the control arms and links stay the same, etc. depending on the lift kit. I like combining a mild body lift with a mild suspension lift. The suspension lift gives room for larger tires, but when that suspension compresses back to near stock location, those larger tires need someplace to go. Without raising the body (or cutting out the fenders) then tires will contact the body. You could of course lift the suspension that much farther or run such stiff springs that they won't allow full compression to avoid rubbing. But I would rather have just enough lift to let the tires work and then enough body lift to allow them to stuff into the wheel wells:



Gives you room to fit sliders and bumper up higher for better clearance as well. Toyotas sit down over the frame and you don't generally see a gap between the body and frame like you do on some makes, such as Chevys.

Also the body lift lets you raise up the drivetrain for addional under-truck clearance:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ft/index.shtml


You can shave the bottom of the axles for addional clearance:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/AxlePlate.shtml

suprathepeg

And the body lift master speaks.

4RunnerKid

go with a 4" kit (like my superlift, which is for sale) and BJ spacers as well as coil spacers or LC lift coils. look for mikronized on here. he's running that setup on his 4Runner.

CraZyRunner

Just to let you guys know i have a 2" body lift! i like it it works but i just wanted to get a little more clearance so thanks for your imputs!!!! i think if anything ill just stick with a 3" or 4" lift if that you guys have changed my perspective on things!!

suprathepeg

NP, you never said what size tire you are wanting to stuff in there? you may not need that much more lift. 4crawler.com has a lift vs tire size chart on his site that you may find helpful.

CraZyRunner

by the way how much are bj spacers??

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

See:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ntSpacer.shtml

Randomness

Are you gonna say why and what you need this much lift for?

CraZyRunner

Well lets see boggin, crawlin, and pretty much anything that has to do with the word wheelin. And i also like the way it looks but trust me that is not the number one reason.