Different kind of suspension question...
#1
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Thread Starter
Different kind of suspension question...
I too totally believe in stock, and would like a suspension setup that maintains the stock ride height and look but would allow me to travel on bumpy trails or roads are somewhat higher speeds. Nothing like a stadium truck or Baja, but just a little more compliant, the stock rear setup seems to be jarred hard on somewhat bumpy sections at even slow speeds. What can be done to make the suspension more "active". I'd be up for maybe 1-2" inches of lift if it allowed the axle/IFS to move more freely. The test would be able to cruise over speed bumps w/o that jarring in the front and rear. Anyone 4Runner owner w/ stock suspension knows what I am talking about.
#3
In all seriousness yes you can achieve what described.
Getting new shocks (resevoir shocks ie king, sway a way, fox) and getting them valved for your 4runner would be a huge improvment. These resevoir shocks are night and day compared to say, bilstein 5100 or 5150 series, rancho, fabtech, procomp shocks. Definetly worth the money.
Next thing you could do Is maximize the travel you have now. Note..without putting any strain or excessive angles on compents such as steering etc... Get better bumpstops and maybe even get some limit straps to stop the harsh dropping out of the suspension. Get good straps like beard, pyrotech, etc NOT procomp shoe lace limit straps.
Another thing is to remove the front sway bar...this will make your suspension truely independent but will sacrifice body stability. Maybe look into getting a detachable sway bar setup for offroad, this way you wont get the body roll on road.
All these things mentioned will really help with on highway and off highway ride!
Getting new shocks (resevoir shocks ie king, sway a way, fox) and getting them valved for your 4runner would be a huge improvment. These resevoir shocks are night and day compared to say, bilstein 5100 or 5150 series, rancho, fabtech, procomp shocks. Definetly worth the money.
Next thing you could do Is maximize the travel you have now. Note..without putting any strain or excessive angles on compents such as steering etc... Get better bumpstops and maybe even get some limit straps to stop the harsh dropping out of the suspension. Get good straps like beard, pyrotech, etc NOT procomp shoe lace limit straps.
Another thing is to remove the front sway bar...this will make your suspension truely independent but will sacrifice body stability. Maybe look into getting a detachable sway bar setup for offroad, this way you wont get the body roll on road.
All these things mentioned will really help with on highway and off highway ride!
#4
One more thing...you want your suspension to be around the middle of its travel since there isnt much to begin with. Riding close to full bump or full droop will give you a rough ride.
#5
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Originally Posted by rearviewmirror
I too totally believe in stock, and would like a suspension setup that maintains the stock ride height and look but would allow me to travel on bumpy trails or roads are somewhat higher speeds. Nothing like a stadium truck or Baja, but just a little more compliant, the stock rear setup seems to be jarred hard on somewhat bumpy sections at even slow speeds. What can be done to make the suspension more "active". I'd be up for maybe 1-2" inches of lift if it allowed the axle/IFS to move more freely. The test would be able to cruise over speed bumps w/o that jarring in the front and rear. Anyone 4Runner owner w/ stock suspension knows what I am talking about.
#6
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the advice. I'll look into some better springs/shocks and see what that does. I do the like the idea of beefier bump stops, that might help. It seems you can roll over items speed bump sized faster in a Toyota Corolla than you can a stock 3rd Gen 4Runner. Suspension needs work..
#7
Registered User
Okay it's a 3rd gen...that's good to know. I was gonna give you first gen 2nd gen info.
For the front get soem of the Donahoe Racing res shocks and the camburg upper arms. Very little lift but great improvement in front. Couple that witrh some sway bar disconnects and you will be in business.
for the rear you will want some sway bar disconnects if you have a sway bar back there and then some softer coils or more progressive coils and better valved shocks.
I don't know much about the rear setup on 3rd gens, but I know that front setup works well.
Here is some great info about tried and tested 3rd gen IFS setups front and rear....read this stuff!!!!!!!!!
http://www.sonoransteel.com/recommend.html
http://www.sonoransteel.com/parts.html
For the front get soem of the Donahoe Racing res shocks and the camburg upper arms. Very little lift but great improvement in front. Couple that witrh some sway bar disconnects and you will be in business.
for the rear you will want some sway bar disconnects if you have a sway bar back there and then some softer coils or more progressive coils and better valved shocks.
I don't know much about the rear setup on 3rd gens, but I know that front setup works well.
Here is some great info about tried and tested 3rd gen IFS setups front and rear....read this stuff!!!!!!!!!
http://www.sonoransteel.com/recommend.html
http://www.sonoransteel.com/parts.html
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#8
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Thread Starter
Our elite LTR shock absorbers were developed to cater for exceptional requirements such as heavy towing and high speed travel over dirt roads.
I don't do any heavy towing, but I am interested in high speed travel over dirt roads. These OME LTR's look perfect for me....
I don't do any heavy towing, but I am interested in high speed travel over dirt roads. These OME LTR's look perfect for me....
#9
Pictures like that dont say much...
Are they vavlable?
Whats the shock diameter?
How much?
They look like they would only be good for towing the weay they mount the resevoir line...
Are they vavlable?
Whats the shock diameter?
How much?
They look like they would only be good for towing the weay they mount the resevoir line...
#10
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Dezertoyota
Pictures like that dont say much...
Are they vavlable?
Whats the shock diameter?
How much?
They look like they would only be good for towing the weay they mount the resevoir line...
Are they vavlable?
Whats the shock diameter?
How much?
They look like they would only be good for towing the weay they mount the resevoir line...
Good questions, and I don't know the answer. I am just sick of my suppose 4x4 off road vehicle getting pounded over speed bumps or at low speeds through brush and praries. I want to maintain the stock wheels and tire size size and not lift it more than 1-2 inches. Basically I need the suspension to be come more active. I thought the LTR would be better because of this statement: "high speed travel over dirt roads."
#11
Contributing Member
What year 3rd gen?
What size tires?
My '99 cruises dirt roads 45-60 mph fine with stock shocks and 265/75R16's. Sure I slow down for cattleguards and potholes but overall, it's more stable and competent at those speeds than my '95. And it definitely rides better.
What size tires?
My '99 cruises dirt roads 45-60 mph fine with stock shocks and 265/75R16's. Sure I slow down for cattleguards and potholes but overall, it's more stable and competent at those speeds than my '95. And it definitely rides better.
#12
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Thread Starter
OK.. I'm ready to buy some suspension bits now. I'm just still not sure which suspension will be more responsive yet not increase the height of my 4Runner as I still want it to be able to fit in the garage. I'd like the 4Runner to be able glide over ruts and bumps with more suspension activity.
#13
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Thread Starter
If I install the following parts do I need to do anything else?
FRONT:
2004 Toyota Tundra TRD 4WD Front Coil: 48131-AF090 - right - Blue + Yellow goes on the passenger side
2004 Toyota Tundra TRD 4WD Front Coil: 48131-AF100 - left - Yellow + Yellow goes on driver side
2004 Toyota TRD Tacoma Double Cab stock front shocks: 48510-A9160 - Tokico TRD Blue (TWO)
REAR:
1995 Toyota FZJ-80 Land Cruiser Coil: 48131-6A570 - right - Double Purple + Gray + White goes on the passenger side
1995 Toyota FZJ-80 Land Cruiser Coil: 48131-6A480 - left - Green + Orange + White goes on driver side
1995 Toyota FZJ-80 Land Cruiser stock rear shocks: 48531-69417 - Tokico Black (TWO)
FRONT:
2004 Toyota Tundra TRD 4WD Front Coil: 48131-AF090 - right - Blue + Yellow goes on the passenger side
2004 Toyota Tundra TRD 4WD Front Coil: 48131-AF100 - left - Yellow + Yellow goes on driver side
2004 Toyota TRD Tacoma Double Cab stock front shocks: 48510-A9160 - Tokico TRD Blue (TWO)
REAR:
1995 Toyota FZJ-80 Land Cruiser Coil: 48131-6A570 - right - Double Purple + Gray + White goes on the passenger side
1995 Toyota FZJ-80 Land Cruiser Coil: 48131-6A480 - left - Green + Orange + White goes on driver side
1995 Toyota FZJ-80 Land Cruiser stock rear shocks: 48531-69417 - Tokico Black (TWO)
#15
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 4RUNN!N
For the rear you will also need
1. Extended Rear Brake Line
2. Panhard Drop Bar or Bracket
1. Extended Rear Brake Line
2. Panhard Drop Bar or Bracket
#17
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customize what you want...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61223
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61223
#18
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1.5 - 2 in lift will only make your axle 0.030-0.054in off... considering the amount of uncertainty in welding a bracket to the underside of your car, you will be able to level the bar, but the chances you will actually make it worse than 0.030-0.054 is pretty likely since there is no real way to line up the bracket.... with your goals in mind, you dont need those, I am running 2.5-3 rear and havent extended brake either...
#19
No extended brake line here either and i have lots of total wheel stuff pics to show it is not nec however maybe an added bit of insurance for less than 3" of lift on a 3rd Gen.
#20
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by rocket
customize what you want...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61223
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61223