i looked in to the back spcing and on the site it says i only have 4 on the back side...sorry im an idiot when it comes to this whole thing. it took me 2 years to pick a wheel out that fit my corrado the way i wanted cause im no good with offsets. Also whats the bolt pattern on the 4runner?I have been looking on ebay tryin to find those wheels and know im looking for 6 lug but by what?I also want to run a 15inch wheel and after talkin to the guys at a local shop they are sayin that a narrow wheel will be better for the bearings and will let me lower the pressure more with out a great risk of braking the bead.

I also looked at gears and a locker for it and heres what i got for price

Detroit locker(rear) was $500ish he said
for 4:88gears (they recomended for my driving style and how much i drive.) $621installed and thats figuring on 35/12.50's hey said i could go higher but they think with my rig being an auto and i still do some highway then this will be the best ratio.Lifts they were so inflated once they install it that i would rather buy the stuff and do it myself.The total with everything i was looking at was a few thousand but in stalled doubled it.

Thanks again for all the help guys if ever your in CO i owe you guys a trip to the bar

 

I have only spent about $500 on my lift altogether...

$200 for a 4 inch pro comp ifs lift from a guy doing sas
$50 for fj80 rear springs from a guy who lifted his cruiser
$80 for S/S extended brake lines
$120 for rpo comp shocks on a buy three get one free sale

and a friend of mine helped me extend my control arms and make a drop braket for my panhard... for the price of scrap metal, less than $20

 

wheels are a 6 on 5.5

 

wow if only i knew what parts i was looking for to build my own i would have gone that route.The lift im getting is a 6inch suspension lift (old but not used long at all) it all looks about new.Im payin less then if i were to BJ spacers and blocks it comes with everything to do it and he said he would help me do it..The body lift i have to get the bracket cause my trucks an auto but its cheap over all i spend under 100 more then BJ spacers and blocks and get a full lift and mild bodylift.Now all im waiting on is wheels cause i found a good pricer on some barely used 35/12.5 bfg a/t's just need some new 15inch wheels for them ...5 if i can get em...id like a full size spare.

 

by the way this is the exact wheel i want if anyone knows a look a like or a set that are cheap floating around.They DONT have to be american racing just have to look like em

 

lol I meant the runner wheels. my corrado is a never ending headache, i mean project. just bought a set or patec coilovers for it and they have beenin the box for about 3 months now. I need to ger the runner running before i move back to the Rado. I might take you up on some parts when i finally get to work on it again.

 

Ok i will ask the guy who wants the 31's if he was planning onthe wheels too.If not then you have dibs the guy said something about the wheels a few weeks back i just dont remember what it was. i have the caps but cant find the bolts for them when i sold my old truck the owner lost them so when i picked up the truck again the caps were off and they said they came loose and they pulled them off and lost the bolts I hope to find the wheels im after cause if i cant find what im looking for then i might have to use them. Eric are you on vortex? If so whats your screen name on there? Im boostedcorrados on there. let me know if you need anything im on here more then vortex anymore cause the corrado spends my money for me the 4runner on the other hand asks first....besides the 4runner even being old and needing alot of work still costs alot less to play with and i can play with it year round where my corrado has seen 2000 miles in 2 years and for what i have put in it i could build a few 4runners that all have alot done lol.

pic to keep this going

 

Just curious, where are you getting the 6" lift? I thought you could only get 4" lifts for the IFS trucks.

Just a bit of forewarning, you are going to have mad driveline vibes with a lift that high. Having a shaft built with a CV joint or double cardigan style can be as much as 500 bucks. I had 'em just with just the 4" lift. The spacer, shackle, body lift route will leave the truck much more driveable and less tippy.

Also, unless it is a long travel (read new a-arms and half shafts....usually costs $2K +) that kit won't increase suspension travel. It can be modified to do so with ball joint spacers or by making new bumpstop relocation mounts, but not as it sits.

For 35's I would go lower than 4.88's on an automatic truck. I have 4.88's with 33's and the 5 speed. That leaves the truck a little undergeared which helps to get the extra mass rolling.

When shopping for lifts, there's a lot more to function than how high the truck sits. I have a 4" lift with ball joint spacers. My total lift is 5.5". I have 33" tires. I feel my truck is too high and too tippy as a result. If I could do it all over again, I would do the spacers and Roger's body lift. Then I'd spend the dough I saved on gears, lockers, and sliders. Gears and lockers make by far the largest improvement in off road performance. That would yield a very driveable yet off road functional truck.

BTW, did mention you have a good looking truck? It looks like it had received great care in its life.

Frank

 

Ok so i got the lift tonight well at least the front part.It came with the full IFS cut off the frame rails diff and all. it has arms that look close to mine but a little longer maybe.Im going to measure them when i get off work tomorrow.It came with all the front diff drop stuff(brackets chopped off the frame lol)the hubs look different too but it could be an added on piece at the top.Everything is powdercoated this light grey wrinkle finish so it looks pretty good. Im supposed to call him tomorrow to meet up for the springs shackles and lines(are lines even needed?)

Im looking to buy new shocks and im thinking about the Procomp es1000 or the es3000 4wheelparts is having a sale on the 3000's for 135.99.Is there any others i should look in to?My shocks are good but i figure i should replace them while im in there.also i doubt my shocks that are on there(no name stock replacement) will reach 4 inches of lift.The other question is will either of the pro comps?

The lift was supposed to come with em but he couldnt find them IF he does i get em but im planning on him not finding them. Even if he doesnt im still happy with the purchase. Now that i have it i can leak the price....$100 for everything.I feel like i got a good deal i also got like 5 T-cases that were going to be left by his friends shop that was moving and a bunch of coilsprings.I figure i have an old truck i can screw with em and see what i can do if all else fails MOON BOOTS!!!

Im going to be getting the tires this weekend. I really am having a hard time with a wheel choice. the rims on the tires are weld and fit a jeep i think he said.They are clean looking and would roll em but bolt pattern is different. i figure i will sell those and get a cheaper knock off of a MT or those american racing wheels. What would be a good price for the wheels and tires 5 35/12.5/15's and there BFG AT and have about 95% left. there like new and the 5th was rotated in so they are worn evenly. the wheels are clean exept a curb or rock mark on one and the centercaps have some dings in them but easily fixed.I dont want to low ball the guy but i am tryin to get a good deal and keep this as cheap as i can.Id be happy if i could sell the wheels and get my new ones with no money out of pocket...but then again im buying used stuff or knock off stuff not this expensive stuff.

I have been thinking about the gears. and i was going to ask if maybe i could wait a week or 2 to have them done? i wont be driving much and i will be stayin in town so would the truck be ok for a week or 2 of easy in town driving or should i wait and do it first even? I know it will be gutless i just dont know if i will have the cash to get the locker and the gears right off the bat after all this. wheel is out of the question anyways cause as of now im tryin to get the truck cleaned up and looking good again.

Im so picky when it comes to my cars im flippin out cause i need to clean the carpets and theres 3 rockchips on the fender and one on the hood. im going to touch those up and colrsand and buff the whole truck and polish up the chrome and whatever wheels i get lol.I would also like to pull the top off and respray it cause theres some fading on the back.

elripster- thanks for the info i have thought that the gears could go a little farther but the reason the shop told me that is cause i will have to drive on the highway sometimes and i dont want to be running 5k rpm at 65.Righ tnow the truck will go as fast as i need it to (i have had it at 110 no problem) but if i could leave some room so that i dont kill the motor then i would be ok . if all this can happen with taller gears then im game! i just need to know what to use cause as i have said im new to this.
I also thought i would bring up that im doing this for more looks then anything. The truck sees a trail to go camping or to drop my atv's or bikes. The trails i go on i could get through fine before.I want something that will run good in the moutains and street but have a really cool look. i always wanted a big truck. Thanks for the comments about the truck.I always like to hear what people think good and bad about my cars and trucks.The truck had an ok life and has been pampered for the short time i have owned it. The old owners did some stuff that blows my mind. like undersized .50 main bearings and .25 rods on a turboed motor After i got it i had the bearings spin and so i got new toyota rods and crank ,bearings had the head ported polished and a new rocker set. Cam valves and springs seals and gaskets. the turbo will be the next replacement and im putting a t3 super 60 on it and already have the blow off valve and intercooler waiting to go on. i also want to get a better management system for it.Im thinking Greddy e-manage cause of the electronic boost control and the a/f maps.


Thanks guys and keep the great info coming

 

 

I'd get the lft on first, then check your compression/extension measurements before you get shocks.

Then check these out:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Super...temZ7916955827

I have a pair on mine and they seem fine. Similar to Procomp3000 or Rancho5000. You'll have to scroll around a bit to find a good length with the right kind of attatchment points but you should be able to come up with something. I linked a set of AT shocks (787xx) but they also have XT (788xx) that are nitro charged. The XT's aren't warranted though.

 

For 35's I would suggest 4.88's. Like I said I ahve 4.88's with 33's and am undergeared. (Rear: my engine revs higher at a given speed than it used to) That works better if the truck is going to see more off road use.

For freeway work, the 4.88's will resolve to be right around stock. The truck will be slower and suck more gas but there's nothing you can do about.

The main reason to get the gears is to extend engine and clutch life. If you have to drive with your foot closer to the floor, your engine is working harder and will not last as long. Note: As long as you are within max RPM's, engines that rev higher will minimal throttle are not under as much stress as those that are revving lower with the pedal floored.

I'd just look into regearing in the next month or so if I were you. The truck will really be much more fun to drive.

Frank

 

thanks looks like i will be picking out the body lift...4crawler is the way im leaning.i really like that they have the shift bracket.Im just having a hard time making sure i have everything i need in the kit to do it right.

 

Just check out the vehicle application page, the typical kit contents include what most folks typically order for the typical vehicle:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ift.shtml#GenI

And add the AT brkt. kit for lifts of 2"-3" (not needed at 1").

 

thanks! i will be gathering up some funds this week to place that order. any pieces that are overlooked?I dont need a rear bumper bracket cause im pulling mine off. I will need the front and radiator pieces. all the hardwear and the at bracket in 3inch.....anything else you can think of im missing?

 

i figured 173+shipping cause i want the instructions..package D with radiator and bumper brackets. what would shipping be to CO (80503) and i would like tracking info if possible

thanks again

 

A PM was sent with ordering instructions. A tracking number is *always* sent, when available, via e-mail when the kit orders ship:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...Kit.shtml#FAQ9

 

thanks i got it and replyed. i also had a question about the BJ spacer and if it can be used with the suspension lift cause a 3inch body after seeing a truck with it looks nasty

 

Body lifts can be done poorly and they can be done well. Gaps can be covered, side bars can be fit to the body, bumpers can be raised:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...tml#Aesthetics
Granted I still have a gap at my front bumper, but it has been there before I had the body lift.

Ball joint spacers can be used with IFS suspension lifts. Many folks run that combination, some to gain the increased suspension travel and softer ride.

 

Ya...I was gonna agree with you Seth, but this guy seems like a drop bracket would more fit his style.....you can pick up a 4" lift for you truck for like 400 bucks from trailmaster,procomp, or skyjacker outta petersons 4 wheel & off road mag.....

You'll be able to run a 33x12.50 w/ minor rubbing....

Otherwise what deathrunner stated is a cheap trail ready rig but will prob not give you enuf lift to clear your tire......

And for tire clearance I ran 33x10.50's on my rig stock and I can tuck a 12.50 now with LT on the front......my rear end could fit like a 39 now but I'll stick with my 33's...

-blair