so i will be installing my lockright in the rear of my 3rd gen today. just wondering if anyone was able to pull the axles out enough to allow the 3rd member to come out WITHOUT dissconnecting the hard brake lines to each wheel.
i would rather not bleed brakes if possible.

any other tips or tricks that you might have found to make this painless please let me know

 

anyone??

 

AFAIK, you will have to take the brake line apart. But you dont have to take it apart at both wheels. Take the hard line loose from the axle and then take one side off ( I prefer the passenger side) Cap it with the rubber bleeder cap. Then take out the third and do what you need. You WILL have to bleed the brakes, but it will not take a lot of time or effort this way.

 

Bleeding the brakes isn't too bad.

No, you shouldn't pull the axles out a little and leave them resting on the seals. The weight of the axles will damage the seals and they will need replaced.

If I were you I would replace the outer axle seals while they were out anyways. 3rd gens are known for bad axle seals.

 

X2. just pull the axle/drums out as one piece, take extra care in not banging around the seal if your reusing them. bleeding's a snap...

if youre gonna do somethin', especially when it comes to drivetrain, might as well do it right. the first time.

 

well i finished puttin it in and driving.
i did not disconnect the brake lines b/c they were going to snap. dam new england rust!
i had enough slack to get the member out any ways.
installation was pretty easy, but the tires chirp alot around corners more than expected. if my clutch pedal is up while going around tight corners it feels like the full spool i put in my firebird. around larger corners faster speeds it seems to do its job of letting the wheels differentiate.

maybe ill start another thread asking how people with m/t and the lock right how it feels while driving on the road.

 

i have m/ts and a lockright and its fine.

you have to realize its going to chirp here and there, but you need to adjust the way you drive slightly so youre not laying on the gas.

 

im pretty sure u have an automatic lee. unless u bought a 5spd when you blew the auto up lol. i heard that u get more chirp with a 5spd thats why i said people with m/t.

 

yeah, you are going to get the chirping, and the bucking if you don't learn how to drive with the lockrite in. with the lockrite, you have to ride the clutch around most turns to help allow it dissengage. you'll get used to it. it will probably just take about a week or so.

 

oh i thought you meant mud terrains, HAHAHAH sorry

 

well im taking my 3rd member out again today!!!! this chirping isnt correct. the lockright is stayin engaged around every corner. i cant even move around my driveway w/o it ripping tire. i know why this is happening too.
the 1 part of installation i was unsure of. i should have followed my instinct.
the 4 pins that go into the locker should have been lightly tapped into their holes. the instructions said place them in the hole. they didnt seem to be right but i figured the instructions would say to tap them in snug, not place them.

so ya im going to rip it out again today shorty and hopefully i can fix what i messed up. hope my springs arent ruined

 

we didn't tap anything in on my install (that i remember anyways). keep in mind, depending on how hard you are turning, and how/where you are using clutch will effect this. i was chirping everywhere when i first got mine. hell, even now, without any control, there are 2 streets there that refuse to let the locker dissengage. i think it is because they are both loaded with the crack sealer that makes things a bit more slippery.

anyhow, let us know how it turns out for you.

 

well guys. i just got back from taking this apart again and things arent looking good. like i figured, my driving style wasnt the problem. my locker just wasnt disengaging.
upon removing the locker we found that 1 of the pins and 2 of the springs broke. part of the pin is still lodged in 1 half of the locker and is not coming out.
we found a peice of stock @ my friends shop that is exactly like the pin but we were not able to remove the pin so it dosent matter. also to find the correct springs for this lying around some where isnt happening.
so now my 4runner sits inside a custom shop/vehicle storage for rich ppl with the diff in peices.

monday i will call richmond gear to see if i can possibly buy 1 half of the locker and new pins and springs to finish this up rather than buy a totally new locker. if richmond cant help me an employee at my friends shop knows someone who deals with richmond often he may be able to get me parts i need. worse comes to worse i will order ANOTHER lockright1620 which is in stock @ performanceoffroadcenter, recieve it this week and install it to be ready for some wheeln this weekend.

in the pic you can see the good pin on one side and the broken pin on the other with the broken peice sitting on the top. broken spring is in the middle.
the reason this happened is i should have lightly tapped those pins into there hole, im lucky 3 of them found their ways into the hole. could have been ALOT worse, all other parts in my diff are ok for reassembly.

 

well i called richmond gear today. long story short i told them that their instructions lead me to the point i am at. placing the pins into their holes and lightly tapping them so they seat correcty are two totally different things. had i followed my gut and not the instructions i would have tapped the pins in lightly till they were in, and been wheeln on sunday. so i will be overnighting them my locker back, they said they would check it out and see if they can warranty it.
i was very nice to them on the phone even though their instructions screwed me over. lets see if they do the right thing and warranty it, if not ill get super bitchy like every other customer who isnt happy with a product till i get my way.

 

I put a Lockrite in on the 10th too and mine is engaging and disengaging right. How much grease did you use on the pins and springs???

 

i put alot of grease, i filled the holes and springs so they held in place like the directions say, and also put alot where the sidegears mesh with the locker. that pin not being seated all the way down was what wouldnt allow it to disengage. it stuck out just a bit to far and since the other pins were all the way in it went to disengage and just snapped that last pin.
richmond gear recievced my locker yesterday for inspection. i will call around 10 today and should get an answer as to wheather they are gonna warranty it or not. if they do then great, if not then im ordering another locker so i can put my truck back together. i miss driving my 4runner.

while doing your install did you pins just slide all the way down in their holes. uz the directions say "place them" not push them and possibly tap them in.

 

the pins should be sticking out of their holes. all 4 pins should connect the two cam gears together. the disengaging of the locker happens between the cam gears and the side gears

 

i know the pins will stick out. 1 just stuckout to far, resulting in it breaking.
it dosent matter any ways because richmond gear decided to warranty my locker with no questions asked. i called them today and they said i will get it next week. im very happy that they decided to stand by their products.

 

Sucks to hear about your locker problems. I just got mine in 99 SR5 Auto. My buddy just got his installed as well in a M/T taco and let me drive it. IMO push in the clutch and coast around corners when you can and it wont chirp as much. Like Lee said...just adjust your driving a little and you wont even realize its there most of the time.

 

didnt you just read the other posts. the locker was broken and stuck locked, not my driving style that kept it locked.
i just got home from putting the new locker in and it seems to be working perfectly. does not chirp around corners unless you romp on it. so glad its finally back in action, but locked of course.