RC crawler guys - thinking about getting into the hobby
#121
Scale accessories
Corey, if you want all those accessories new, search for ProLine scale accessories. There are all kinds of goodies: jack, stands, coolers, powertanks, tool boxes with wrenches inside, shovels, etc etc. I think basically anything close to 1/12 scale should work - that would be close to the scale of action figure/dollhouses.
#122
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I really suck at soldering, have not done it in years.
That splice of mine will hold for awhile, but I do not have all of those fine wires pushed into the crimps I used, as they were kind of small.
Could not use bigger crimps, as the shrink tubing I had was to small.
Maybe I will hear back from tech support at the place that makes my batteries and cables.
I have a ton of Dean's plugs though, but for now I am just using the stock Tamiya stuff from the truck to the battery.
Here is the video, but I have to warn you, it sucks.
GoPro HD cameras rule during the day, just look at some of the beautiful vids on their site, and also the one you posted the other day.
GoPro cameras have no built in light, so anything shot in the dark like this morning will turn out very grainy.
I will get some other vids in daylight.
Going to head to the hobby shop here shortly and see if he has any other bigger 12 gauge conversion cables I can use.
These Venom wires I bought are 6" long, about 2" to short when the battery is put into the Wraith the correct way.
If I had custom longer ones made up, do you still need to run that small balance wire too, or only during charging?
That splice of mine will hold for awhile, but I do not have all of those fine wires pushed into the crimps I used, as they were kind of small.
Could not use bigger crimps, as the shrink tubing I had was to small.
Maybe I will hear back from tech support at the place that makes my batteries and cables.
I have a ton of Dean's plugs though, but for now I am just using the stock Tamiya stuff from the truck to the battery.
Here is the video, but I have to warn you, it sucks.
GoPro HD cameras rule during the day, just look at some of the beautiful vids on their site, and also the one you posted the other day.
GoPro cameras have no built in light, so anything shot in the dark like this morning will turn out very grainy.
I will get some other vids in daylight.
Going to head to the hobby shop here shortly and see if he has any other bigger 12 gauge conversion cables I can use.
These Venom wires I bought are 6" long, about 2" to short when the battery is put into the Wraith the correct way.
If I had custom longer ones made up, do you still need to run that small balance wire too, or only during charging?
#123
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Corey, if you want all those accessories new, search for ProLine scale accessories. There are all kinds of goodies: jack, stands, coolers, powertanks, tool boxes with wrenches inside, shovels, etc etc. I think basically anything close to 1/12 scale should work - that would be close to the scale of action figure/dollhouses.

I will
that and look for some stuff.
#124
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Ohhhhhhhhh Myyyyyyyyy
http://prolineracing.com/performance...ory-roof-rack/

http://prolineracing.com/performance...-assortment-2/

http://prolineracing.com/performance...-assortment-1/

Looks like I am going shopping
Not seeing the Powertank though on their site.

http://prolineracing.com/performance...-assortment-2/

http://prolineracing.com/performance...-assortment-1/

Looks like I am going shopping

Not seeing the Powertank though on their site.
#125
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Hobby store by me did not have the Proline stuff above, but they have had replacement bodies in before.
Anyways, we got to talking and we noticed the wire coming off of the Wraith is not 12 gauge like the battery cables I have, it is more like 14 gauge.
Picked up a Tamiya female (connects to the male Tamiya on the Wraith) to male Dean's (connects to my 6" battery leads that plug into the Lipos) 14 gauge adapter.
Can not find the one they carry online, but it is identical to this one.
http://www.ehobbies.com/dyn5000.html

We ran the Wraith around the shop and it worked fine.
Since the Wraith has 14 gauge coming off of the electronic controller, I should be fine.
I just think the battery manufacturers use a heavier 12 gauge wire to be safe.
Anyone know how that Proline roof rack attaches?
Says it comes with mounting hardware.
I take it you glue the other accessories to the rig or the rack?
Anyways, we got to talking and we noticed the wire coming off of the Wraith is not 12 gauge like the battery cables I have, it is more like 14 gauge.
Picked up a Tamiya female (connects to the male Tamiya on the Wraith) to male Dean's (connects to my 6" battery leads that plug into the Lipos) 14 gauge adapter.
Can not find the one they carry online, but it is identical to this one.
http://www.ehobbies.com/dyn5000.html

We ran the Wraith around the shop and it worked fine.
Since the Wraith has 14 gauge coming off of the electronic controller, I should be fine.
I just think the battery manufacturers use a heavier 12 gauge wire to be safe.
Anyone know how that Proline roof rack attaches?
Says it comes with mounting hardware.
I take it you glue the other accessories to the rig or the rack?
#126
I think the roof rack mounts with 4 screws that pass through the body, but I'm not 100% sure
those two holes that are on the flat part are made to mount their light bar too. I'm using their light bar that I custom fit some LEDs into and just mounted it wo my rear cage with some zip ties; allows it to pivot back and forth in a roll over and not break off








those two holes that are on the flat part are made to mount their light bar too. I'm using their light bar that I custom fit some LEDs into and just mounted it wo my rear cage with some zip ties; allows it to pivot back and forth in a roll over and not break off









#127
oh and to hold stuff to the roof rack, I wouldn't glue them. make some scale bungee cords! I actually made a how-to video on making them for the rc crawler web site a little while back 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dwgJ...&feature=feedu


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dwgJ...&feature=feedu

#128
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Dude, you got some super skills there.
Those mini bungee cords are fantastic!
I will probably order that stuff above today for the Wraith.
I do know if that winch that comes with the one kit will mount to the Wraith or not, but I want the other stuff in the kit.
Now on the Wraith the roof is held on with around 5 mini screws.
Hopefully the rack will not cover up those screws if I want to take the roof off at any time.
PS, after I watched your how to video, this one popped up.
He has the Hi-Lift jack too.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNuyn...eature=related
Those mini bungee cords are fantastic!
I will probably order that stuff above today for the Wraith.
I do know if that winch that comes with the one kit will mount to the Wraith or not, but I want the other stuff in the kit.
Now on the Wraith the roof is held on with around 5 mini screws.
Hopefully the rack will not cover up those screws if I want to take the roof off at any time.
PS, after I watched your how to video, this one popped up.
He has the Hi-Lift jack too.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNuyn...eature=related
#129
#130
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Good link Red.
One had a link for scale bungee cords, but the guy's health has failed, so he is no longer making them.
Not enough patience to make my own, would like to buy some.
The stuff I ordered earlier came in yesterday.
Will be busy mounting up the roof rack and other goodies to the Wraith this weekend.
Fink, you getting the itch to get one yet
One had a link for scale bungee cords, but the guy's health has failed, so he is no longer making them.
Not enough patience to make my own, would like to buy some.
The stuff I ordered earlier came in yesterday.
Will be busy mounting up the roof rack and other goodies to the Wraith this weekend.
Fink, you getting the itch to get one yet
#131
few more additions to the Tacoma today 
put the steering servo back on the axle... as much as I hate it there (for the looks of the rig), it performs a LOT better being down there. moved the battery back close to the stock location, only it sits almost an inch lower than stock. and the only reason I did that was to fab up some inner fenders








still has some decent lean left in it even after moving the battery a little higher than it use to be

put the steering servo back on the axle... as much as I hate it there (for the looks of the rig), it performs a LOT better being down there. moved the battery back close to the stock location, only it sits almost an inch lower than stock. and the only reason I did that was to fab up some inner fenders









still has some decent lean left in it even after moving the battery a little higher than it use to be

#132
this weekend's shenanigans in the back yard with family left the rig with a torn up idler gear in the trans 

but I just dropped $80 on the rig online and will have some METAL gears showing up soon to replace these stock nylon ones... Corey, this gear is out of a WRAITH transmission, so keep that in mind
nothing's unbreakable


but I just dropped $80 on the rig online and will have some METAL gears showing up soon to replace these stock nylon ones... Corey, this gear is out of a WRAITH transmission, so keep that in mind
nothing's unbreakable
#134
RPP Hobby sells them
http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/rrp1541.htm

they don't list it on their site under the Wraith section, but I can tell you without a doubt it's the same gear. I took the stock gear out of my SCX10 trans and put it in the Wraith trans
if you ever need tranny gears, the gears themselves are the same on the AX10, SCX10, and Wraith. The transmission is identical between the AX10 and SCX10, and the only way the Wraith differs is the output on one side.
I also ordered a metal final drive gear in the trans, as the stock one is plastic as well
http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/rrp1540.htm

BUT, I didn't order them from RPP, I found them on eBay instead for almost the same price, but free shipping
but I also order my drive shafts yokes off eBay and they were about $10 cheaper on eBay than on RPP, and they had free shipping as well
it never hurts to try different sources, just be sure it's the same part. The magical part numbers are your friend when it comes to looking for specific parts for these things
http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/rrp1541.htm

they don't list it on their site under the Wraith section, but I can tell you without a doubt it's the same gear. I took the stock gear out of my SCX10 trans and put it in the Wraith trans
if you ever need tranny gears, the gears themselves are the same on the AX10, SCX10, and Wraith. The transmission is identical between the AX10 and SCX10, and the only way the Wraith differs is the output on one side.I also ordered a metal final drive gear in the trans, as the stock one is plastic as well
http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/rrp1540.htm

BUT, I didn't order them from RPP, I found them on eBay instead for almost the same price, but free shipping
but I also order my drive shafts yokes off eBay and they were about $10 cheaper on eBay than on RPP, and they had free shipping as well
it never hurts to try different sources, just be sure it's the same part. The magical part numbers are your friend when it comes to looking for specific parts for these things
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; Nov 7, 2011 at 05:31 PM.
#135
and if you're ever wandering what your transmission in your Wraith looks like COMPLETELY torn apart, here you go 

these are the two stock plastic gears that are getting replaced
still waiting on the metal ones in the mail; only ordered them a few days ago, just wanted to go ahead and tare the transmission apart and clean it out since it had a bunch of plastic chunks in it (the teeth from the gear that stripped out, lol)

the differentials are next, because I'm replacing the pinion input shafts with ones that are cross-drilled like the output shafts are already on the Wraith transmission




these are the two stock plastic gears that are getting replaced
still waiting on the metal ones in the mail; only ordered them a few days ago, just wanted to go ahead and tare the transmission apart and clean it out since it had a bunch of plastic chunks in it (the teeth from the gear that stripped out, lol)
the differentials are next, because I'm replacing the pinion input shafts with ones that are cross-drilled like the output shafts are already on the Wraith transmission



#136
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Travis, thanks for the links and the pictures.
What were you doing when that one gear failed on you?
I would hate to think these things could fail super easy.
I will have to update my thread this weekend with a few pics.
The Wraith has a new pilot now
What were you doing when that one gear failed on you?
I would hate to think these things could fail super easy.
I will have to update my thread this weekend with a few pics.
The Wraith has a new pilot now
#137
well my cousin was actually wheeling it. he was doing the normal thing people do when they find out just how good the engine brake works and how much torque the thing actually has; driving fast and letting off the throttle so it does a nose stand, and then punching the throttle and pulling wheelies, lol. so I can't really say that it let loose under normal use, but at the same rate it's only the second time that I've really ran this trans. I ran it last time I met up with some locals, and that's it except for a little testing in the front yard after tweaking the suspension setup.
that little gear that I toasted is usually the first thing to go out in the trans though, so I knew it was EVENTUALLY going to happen
that little gear that I toasted is usually the first thing to go out in the trans though, so I knew it was EVENTUALLY going to happen
#138
well this isn't good...
I think I need to order some spare bearings, lol
as I was taring apart the font diff, I pulled this bearing off the ring gear and locker assembly and it literally fell apart in my hand
the outer race is cracked... have no idea how that happens, but oh well...
I think I need to order some spare bearings, lol
as I was taring apart the font diff, I pulled this bearing off the ring gear and locker assembly and it literally fell apart in my hand
the outer race is cracked... have no idea how that happens, but oh well...
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; Nov 9, 2011 at 07:44 PM.
#139
guess I've been slacking on the updates 
got the gears in, new drilled inputs in the differentials, drive shafts beefed up, bearings replaced, everything reassembled and installed, AND bolted on a new bumper along with a home-made servo winch and controller!







had to make some clearances with the drive shaft rings; no big deal


these should DEFINITELY hold


new bumper

$10 servo turned into a winch


squeeze into a tight place where nothing hits it, like under the battery tray in front of the transmission



route the rope/cable to the front via some eyelets


add a hook bent up from an S hook made to repair chains (as well as some crude D-rings for the bumper)

pull out the box of electronic goodies and whip up a controller box; freebie since I just so happen to keep so much random crap in my electronics box
I'm quite proud of this little contraption





plug on the controller

plugs right into the plug on the truck for the winch


switch reverses the winch for pulling in or letting out; pulling in is indicated by the LED lighting up green, letting out the LED lights up red. but the winch doesn't move until the little red momentary button is pushed


and viola, winched!



being a $10 servo, it's not very strong, BUT, now that I've proven the idea works relatively well, when I burn this servo out I'll put a better one in it's place

got the gears in, new drilled inputs in the differentials, drive shafts beefed up, bearings replaced, everything reassembled and installed, AND bolted on a new bumper along with a home-made servo winch and controller!







had to make some clearances with the drive shaft rings; no big deal


these should DEFINITELY hold



new bumper

$10 servo turned into a winch


squeeze into a tight place where nothing hits it, like under the battery tray in front of the transmission



route the rope/cable to the front via some eyelets


add a hook bent up from an S hook made to repair chains (as well as some crude D-rings for the bumper)

pull out the box of electronic goodies and whip up a controller box; freebie since I just so happen to keep so much random crap in my electronics box
I'm quite proud of this little contraption




plug on the controller

plugs right into the plug on the truck for the winch


switch reverses the winch for pulling in or letting out; pulling in is indicated by the LED lighting up green, letting out the LED lights up red. but the winch doesn't move until the little red momentary button is pushed


and viola, winched!



being a $10 servo, it's not very strong, BUT, now that I've proven the idea works relatively well, when I burn this servo out I'll put a better one in it's place
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; Nov 14, 2011 at 09:54 PM.
#140
good job! i need to upgrade my tranny and d-shafts. what's the parts list for those d-shafts? overall, i'm assuming it's cheaper than MIP shafts, right?
i just got some bigger tires, so i'm guessing i'll start breaking stuff real soon
i just got some bigger tires, so i'm guessing i'll start breaking stuff real soon




